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Everything posted by Boss429Dreamer

  1. Yes, it does seem bent. It should be perpendicular to the frame rail.
  2. About the pedal sitting up high, I think this is normal. Mine sits high too, and being concerned about it I looked at many cars that were for sale to see pictures of the clutch pedal. All that I saw looked that way. I wouldn't worry about it.
  3. Crawled up under mine and took a look. Same setup as yours. I think the jam nut keeps the adjustment from moving. I found a link to the Ford shop manual. That's how I adjusted my clutch, but I'm afraid it's time to replace mine. Try this link: how to adjust clutch linkage | Vintage Mustang Forums (vintage-mustang.com)
  4. I believe the Edelbrock Performer is equivalent to the cast iron beast on our 351W. From what I've read...
  5. Just spent the last 2 hours reading this thread. What an uplifting story and re-news my interest in getting my car back on the road.
  6. I agree with 1969_Mach1. It's the wrong manifold. I looked at mine (1969 351W 4v) and it has a 1/2" of clearance. Attached pic.
  7. Another thought about this radiator issue: You have a 302 which I believe has a shorter block than the 351W. Do you think that this height difference could be the problem? Maybe the water pump is lower, thus a lower fan? Like I said earlier I did the swap on my 351 with no problem.
  8. Yes, the alternator light doesn't work. But an alternator light or gauge has never helped me neither. And all the wiring changes are done at the plug, other than the one splice that you have to make. And changing all the wiring forward of the tail light harness mentioned by "Midlife"? Not true.
  9. I have a non-tach 69 Mach1 too, and I picked up a tach dash on eBay. I had all the gauges and tach rebuilt by Tachman and then installed it per the instructions on the Boss302.com website. Look it up under the "Tech Articles" link on that website. Was relatively easy to do and it works fine.
  10. If it's the original matching numbers engine I would rebuild it. Just depends on how original you want it to be.
  11. Did you get the lower radiator brackets and insulators? The larger radiator does not bolt to the radiator support like the smaller radiator. I did the swap on my Mach 1 and it makes a huge difference in the cooling. Good luck.
  12. I saw a video where the owner just removes the rotor under the distributor cap.
  13. Are you sure it's the right Pitman arm? I looked at mine and the Pitman arm looks different. But I don't have a B302, it's a 69 Mach 1 with manual steering and 351W so perhaps there is supposed to be a difference.
  14. The 4300 doesn't get a lot of love, but when sorted out it runs great. I have one on my 69 M code and it took some fiddling but it seems to be running great now. I had a buddy years ago with a 68 302 coupe and that car ran super with a 4300 on it. So yes I am a fan of the 4300.
  15. Do you still have the 9" rear and if you do, is it a 28 or 31 spline? Thanks
  16. National Parts Depot sells the set of rods for around $30 if you want to go that way...
  17. Hi guys, first post here. I'm replacing the rim blow switch in my wheel, and found out that the installed Flaming River tilt steering column is a one wire system. So just changing my switch will not fix the non-working horn. It was never hooked up in the first place (I bought the car this way). Just wondering if anyone has a similar system and how did you modify the steering wheel to work with the one wire? I assume a horn relay is required at a minimum.
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