KipDurran

Also, there is a dude on Ebay trying to sell one for $995. It has been listed for months. That is way overpriced (duh). Wait and some cheaper ones will show up. Also, I re-read the above posts. Just to be clear: the deluxe clock is the rectangular clock, not the round one, correct? The round ones necessitate the wood grained panels, not the black panels. VS

I just did that a couple of months ago for my car. I found a clock on Ebay with the panel. Of course the clock didn't work so I sent it in for a quartz movement upgrade. There is a guy on Ebay that sells replacement lenses as well. As for the panel, I went through a couple to find a decent one without a crack in it or melted plastic in the area where the light is. I also had to get a re-popped glove box switch as well but the hole is there and it just pops in. The wiring is all there and it is just plug and play.

You will be happy with the Retrosound, I know I am. Retrosound has a set of knobs on their website that has a textured center but it is chrome, not black. The black ones they have are smooth in the center. I got the chrome ones and painted the center and the ring black. They look stock to me. It is amazing how dirty things look when close up in a picture.

I got the glass from CJ Pony parts and it is crap. I had to send the driver's side back to them for a refund because it was all wavy and had the incorrect curvature to it. That was actually the second driver's side window that I bought from them. I was hand tightening the bolts for the first window and it just shattered. In retrospect I think that the incorrect curvature put too much stress against the flat bracket. I can't prove that though. Here is where I got my current driver's window from. They even have the Carlite logo on them. http://www.pilkington.com/en/us/automotive/pilkington-classics

It's very much like the difference between stiffness in a golf club shaft, skis, diving board etc. It is hard to describe but it is a noticeable difference.

+1 Tinman connectors. I had a shop put them on for me. Seat pans do need to be cut but can be welded to the connector. They blend in and look stock. Without the fixed roof, verts have a lot of flex. Unibody construction doesn't help. My car felt noticeably stiffer after the installation. Steve

I don't have an air saw so I had to go at it with a carbide bit and a dremel. Much slower but it got the job done for me.

Is that the correct pedal for the car? It looks as if it has the chrome trim. Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think the 69s had this as an option. I wanted a 69 pedal that was chrome trimmed to match my brake and E-brake but couldn't find one. The 68 chrome trimmed pedal has a different mounting. It is the same size and the chrome trim popped off the 68 and fit perfectly on the 69.

Thanks, Jay. I think so too! Steve

Well, It moves back and forth and as far as I can tell it is properly installed. Therefore, it "floats" back and forth unless you can tell specifically how to fix the fore and aft movement. Steve

Dave, that is exactly what I am experiencing. I can move the window for and aft but if you leave it alone and roll it up and down a couple of times it will seek a spot on its own. However, the spot that it is seeking doesn't align well with the weather strip on my convertible. Th Cougar in the video has the ability to move the regulator for and aft in the door which might influence the positioning but as I said earlier, my Mustang does not have this feature. I suspect that there is a lot of finesse needed to adjust these things. Might the adjustment of the strut that connects to the door have an effect (by that I mean the opposite end of the forward arm that bolts to the door and can be adjusted up and down). Steve

I have run into the same thing when I recently did the 70 bolt in glass conversion. I have not found a solution but the fore/aft positioning of the window is definitely affecting the seal around the window in my convertible. However, I have not paid too much attention as the windows are down 99.9% of the time anyway. I wonder if this is supposed to be floating connection such that it has the freedom to self seek it's position? I hope not because it is causing problems for me. I watched the video from WCC many times but it is not the same on my car. The Cougar in the video has elongated holes such that the window regulator can be slid back and forth whereas my door has fixed holes.

Also, while the crossmember might not necessitate altering the exhaust, I found that the larger AOD required a reworking of the exhaust around it.

I used the one from PATC and the exhaust goes through just fine.

Has anyone put a Rally Pack style in a 69?