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Everything posted by SunnDogg

  1. Does anyone have any pictures on how the windlace is supposed to run behind the cap and where the single screw for the cap itself mounts to? I am also about to install the quarter trim windlace and was hoping to find a good picture of how this should terminate at the top. I do not have the originals to go by and it looks like I need to trim the grooved portion at about a 45% angle to slide farther up the channel. Thanks in advance for any help.
  2. Jack, My car is tucked in for the winter, but I will try to see if I can get a good picture with it in reverse to compare to yours.
  3. Was just reading about these tips the other day and stumbled across this. I have no experience with these, but seem to be in line with what you are looking for. States that it works with tweco-style torches. https://www.eastwood.com/mig-spot-weld-kit.html
  4. Jack. The button on the switch pushes up against the reverse shift rod. In my pictures the shifter is in neutral. The bolt that attaches the bracket should already be on your shifter (one in front and one in back) as they are the shift throw limit adjustments. Below is the plug that I am using and there was plenty of length. It does connect at the firewall and I may eventually zip-tie it off to make sure it doesn't come in contact with my exhaust, but seems to be fine. https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-back-up-light-repro-c9zz-15520-b/150786?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dback-up%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969
  5. Here you go. I originally purchased Hurst's backup switch and tossed it. Didn't want to cut up my wiring harness and their bracket was too flimsy to hold its shape. Let me know if you have any questions.
  6. Jack. I went through this on my 69. I ended up buying the bracket in the link below and used an OE style 69 switch. I needed to use a washer to make it work, but seems to be fine. Will snap a pic for you. http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Ignition-Electrical/Switches/Back-Up-Light/Back-Up-Light-Switch-Bracket-1965-1973-Mustang-with-Hurst-Shifter.axd
  7. Has anyone found a vendor or have a part number for the wiring loom clips that are used (4) on the floor console? Picture of said clip attached. Thanks in advance.
  8. Thanks. I spoke to Stewart at Python who restored my belts and confirmed that what you have is the correct. He suggested heating them up with a hair dryer and they went in without issue and also kept their shape. Cantedvalve - The hard plastic covers you listed I believe are for later years as I see them referenced in the 70 interior manual. The male end is different and a better setup for storing the belts when not in use from what I can see.
  9. I have the outside belts as the male ends. Buckles should pass through the rear seat by the hump, correct? Appreciate the help.
  10. Need help verifying the proper orientation of the outer rear seat belt bolts before I install the interior trim panels. I did not tear down the car and haven't been able to find any decent pictures online. I do have a 70 Interior Assembly Manual and if I'm reading it correctly it looks like they should mount as I have them in the picture. +/- 15 degrees from centerline. Thanks in advance.
  11. Getting ready to install my belts now and trying to figure out the shoulder bolt cover without ruining it. Are you certain this is how your car came from the factory? Before I saw this post I was just planning to use a hair dryer to warm up the plastic cover and try to slide it over the head of the bolt. Almost certain I would ruin the cover it if I tried it your way and of course the 70 interior assembly manual is of no help.
  12. Measuring in between the seat mounting holes on the angle it is approx. 2.5" tall. Not certain on the height of the OE pans as these were replaced when my car was out for body and paint. I've read in other posts that 69/70 risers are lower in general and people have installed these on other years to lower the seats, so that could be what Dynacorn is referring to when they say low-profile. Let me know if I can help with any other measurements.
  13. We installed the low-profile pans that come from Dynacorn. I am still putting the interior together so can't speak to exactly how much of a difference it makes. Can take some measurements of the riser itself if you like as I have not put in my carpet yet. I am also using a seat track extender as I sit around 6'2" and mostly needed the belly room. http://dynacorndepot.com/seat-platform-lh-69-70-low-profile-3647ybwt-mustang-69-70 http://dynacorndepot.com/seat-platform-rh-69-70-low-profile-3647yawt-mustang-69-70 https://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-67-68-69-70-MUSTANG-COUGAR-SEAT-TRACK-EXTENDERS-EXTENSIONS/332960118819?hash=item4d85f83823:g:1-QAAOxyfVtSL4Uj
  14. http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16476.msg103256#msg103256 http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=271.msg87225#msg87225
  15. Still looking for a set of good, restorable panels. Thanks in advance.
  16. Roger - Looks like I do have the shift trunions installed correctly. Wish I had installed this when Mark was still in business. Thanks again!
  17. Thanks, Brian. Hadn't thought of reaching out to Hurst so appreciate the idea. Does seem if that reverse leg kicked out more it would solve both issues. No damage to the box it came in and doesn't appear to be bent. Thanks again! Roger - Great idea. I'll double-check the install manual and see if I have the 1/2 and Reverse trunnion swapped. Thanks! Thanks, Ridge. I tried that and it seems like it is putting stress on the arm and might bind. I double-checked in the install instructions from Hurst and Mark at TL Heaven and all three rod buttons come in from the outside. Attached is a pic from Mark's CD showing a big block setup with a Hurst Comp+ shifter. Appreciate the help.
  18. Looking for a little guidance from someone who has likely experienced this same issue with their shifter install. I've researched a lot of the old threads on different forums and have yet to come up with a complete answer. Installing a Hurst Comp+ shifter on a 69 big block car and have verified that I have the correct installation kit, shift rods, tailshaft, tranny mount, etc. I believe I have it aligned pretty well and can remove/insert the ¼” guide pin fairly easily. I need to push up on the soft metal cover just past the levers to get it all the way through, but it does seem to shift pretty well. I rebuilt the tranny with Mark Hammons kit back in the day and carefully followed his instructions on the CD to install the shifter. My concern is that I seem to get slight interference with the ½ shift rod and the reverse rod. When in first the 1/2 rod makes slight contact with the reverse rod just behind the trunnion. Enough so that you can’t even slide a piece of paper between the levers. (PIC 3) When in reverse the rod end just barely makes contact with the ½ shift lever. Enough so that it pushes on the ½ shift lever and forces it back a 1/4 to half inch. (PIC 4) I've read in other threads that people simply trim down the reverse rod end which would take care of that issue, but want to make sure that's the correct fix before I start cutting. It almost seems like the reverse rod button should be flipped to the inside of the shift lever which would fix both issues, but goes against the instructions and doesn't seem to be an option. Has anyone else experienced this? I've completely removed it and re-installed it twice with the same results. Only thing I can think of is that either the shift rods are bent slightly wrong or I need to play with the trunnion position while in neutral before installing the rods. I have not adjusted the stops as many have said that on toploaders they are not particularly necessary, but even that would not help the interference when shifting in to revers. Thanks in advance for any help.
  19. Thank you very much for digging those out and I am interested in getting more info. The one panel is missing a tab, but I might be able to graft one on from another set that I have. Can you please confirm the part numbers? Looking for the ones ending in CW which it looks like yours might be. 69 and 70 panels are slightly different where it meets up with the quarter window. I will PM you with my email address and we can take it from there.
  20. Still looking for a pair of restorable panels. Thanks!
  21. Looking for a pair of original, restorable 69 interior trim panels. 70's are slightly different where they fit around the quarter window. Any color is fine. Part # C9ZB-6331486-CW
  22. Listing a very solid and usable 69 shaker hood for sale. Hood has some slight damage on top as shown in pictures, but has zero rust and is not bent or crowned along the fender line like most hoods. Has been blasted and epoxy primed so there should be no surprises. Located near Des Moines, IA and not interested in shipping, but open to meeting somewhere within reason to help the buyer. $800 OBO. Please let me know if you have any questions or need additional pictures.
  23. Take a look at Mansfield Mustangs catalog with pictures. He has re-conditioned OE parts for sale including a 13/16" lug wrench for Shelby 10-spokes. http://mansfieldmustang.com/Accessories.html
  24. Thank you, Doug. Much appreciated!
  25. Hard to tell from your last pic, but do you think the retractor mechanism will interfere with pushing the seat back all the way? Looking at using seat track extensions and not sure which three point system will work best with them. Appreciate the write-up.
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