gsxrken

Just make sure the total piston area of the 6 piston is larger than their 4 piston setups. More area, or necessarily more pistons, will make for more braking force at the same pedal effort. And get good pads with a high friction coefficient that bite hard at COLD temps.

No mini tub. I offset the larger rim and tire out rather than in to utilize the new real estate. Inside it’s sort of like that 1970 link Grabber posted. A rolled piece of sheet metal welded to the wheelhouse and brought out to close the new gap and to meet the lip of the flare. Now that I think of it, the underside of some of the flare’s metal may not have been able to be painted after the wheelhouse piece was welded on and the upper part of the flare was hidden. Oh well. Been 10 years so far so good. It’s not a pinch weld sort of flange like Ford used to weld together the outer wheelhouse and quarter panel. on edit- to be clear I didn’t perform the work myself. I used a shop in Maine (now closed).

It’s not easy. No one makes them for the rear. It’s English-wheel, hammer and sandbag of flat sheet metal custom work, but it can be done of course. The front fenders were much easier: give Anvil your credit card number and they’ll send two fenders with a 1-1/2” bigger flare than stock. I run 315s out back now without mini tubs and 265s up front without rubbing.

3.50 if you don't have overdrive but if you do, you want AT LEAST 3.70 or 3.90s. Real men drove many of these with 4.11s back in the day... without overdrive. :-) My 3.73s turn around 2k at 70mph with a 25.5" tire and .68 overdrive. It lugs at much below that.

Btw love the bit about the 83 year old MIL brake bleeding assistant. How can you yell at your assistant when they left up too early when they're 83 years old? ;-)

I have a 69 auto power pedal, booster and front disc distribution/prop valve all original just removed from driving car. Master was a FLAPs rebuild but doesn't leak. PM me for a very sympathetic quote if you end up needing to go this route. Ken

Well actually, they do have a lot to do with how much leg force you need to apply to the pedal, but the diameter of the rotor and the pad have nothing to do with your stopping distance (until we bring brake fade into the discussion after a few stops). My point is your chassis and tire are the sole determinants of stopping. To illustrate, we can establish that a particular tire compound can only withstand a certain braking force before it just locks up and starts skidding. Every tire has its limit. The tire doesn't know or care what brake is applying that force, it just knows when enough is enough and when its coefficient of friction is exceeded, it starts skidding. As long as your stock brakes can apply that force, pads with more bite and rotors with larger lever effect won't stop the car in any less distance, because they just hit the same tire limit and the car is skidding at the same force. they will just require less leg force from you to get there.

I'm sure youll love the brakes and kudos for going with no-bling black. Just a nitpick is that your tires, weight of the car, and suspension are what dictate your stopping distance... Not your brakes, at least for the first handful of stops. Don't get me wrong, there are a ton of good reasons to upsize your brakes. Larger brakes will take more heat and stop repeatably for far more consecutive stops than smaller brakes, but as long as your stock brakes can brake hard enough to lock up the tires, they are not dictating your stopping distance.

They are very noisy, noticeable even over a rowdy exhaust. They can move a lot of air at idle which you'll notice if you're tuning the carb or fiddling under the hood. Curious to hear why you're bailing on the electric. Most guys go from he flex fan, to a clutch fan, and then a handful go to electric.... In that order.

It'll cost about $1,000 all-in. Pump, brackets, hoses, short master cylinder. And a new windshield for the first time you stomp on it. ;)

Looks like you are checking all the right boxes, Fvike. Great attention to detail and parts selection, too. I am curious to hear about how that rear suspension works when you are all sorted. Two tips with the TCP power rack I might share- depending on what power steering pump you went with (I used a KRC one) you might need to restrict the flow a bit. Mine was too light of an effort with the as-shipped flow valve in the KRC pump. The other is to make sure you really fasten the inner tie rods securely to the bar that is bolted to the rack. I developed a shimmy in the steering wheel and upon inspection found that my inter tie rod had loosened somehow, and the tie rod beat up the hole in the bar so that I had to get another one from TCP. This still bothers me to this day because I did not leave that nut loose. I think it's bad design to have so much load on a relatively thin bar like that.

Fikse makes the definitive pro-touring sort of wheels. Take a look at the FM/5 in 17" or 18" and start saving.

I had Jake Parrot at Jakes Rod Shop in Maine make it to my taste. He has the templates and you're welcome to leverage them. It gets a lot of thumbs up, and I've had more than one person explain to me that it is not stock. ;-) On edit-I am taking down my embarrassingly large sig pic until I can get it resized...

The bolts are insanely different lengths and you need to keep track of which goes where. I use a cardboard template roughly the shape of the cover to push each bolt into as I take it out. Several go through in the water jacket so use pipe dope thread sealant on them. +1 on the balancer install while bolts are loose.

I got one of the TKO600s when they first came out. I have never liked it. Supposedly, for another $700 or so Liberty Transmissions addresses the shortcomings. I really think I'll just go with a T56 Magnum soon. My complaints: It regularly won't go into the next gear if I'm over 6000 RPM- no grinding, it just blocks you out like hitting a wall. It's notchy; going into any gear you can definitely feel the neutral click and then the gear click. And the .64 overdrive was the wrong call for me (this is not the fault of the TKO obviously). I track the car and on a decent straight, 4th gear at 6000 RPM with my gears and tire diameter tops out at around 125MPH. Dumping the car into the .64 overdrive 5th gear cuts the RPMs nearly in half and kills torque multiplication too. I need that optional .82 roadrace gear in the TKO (or the 5th gear in a T56.) The .64 is a great highway gas, engine, and sanity saver but is too much of a gap from the the 1:1 4th for me. This is where the T56 shines... .80 5th AND .62 6th for best of both worlds. Big $$$, but I hope to sell my TKO and bellhousing to knock some of it down. I also had to whack my tunnel to get the right angles. I could not achieve the stock angles with the conversion crossmember, so I had to make my own to hold the trans higher. I was not going to flirt with a driveline vibration or steeper angles on my u-joints with the way I use the car. I also could not drop the engine further. I have the TCP power rack which installs where the original engine cross member was, and it was already just about touching my Canton road race pan. YMMV