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Everything posted by foothilltom

  1. That's a dang fine question: to part out or to sell. I don't think there's much of a market for a 41 year old stock 302, but if your interior is pristine, I'm sure you could fetch a good price for your seats, dash pad, door panels, etc. If your title is clear (not Salvage), I think you could get more for a running car. The old-timers here know I bought a Salvage title coupe that had great interior but otherwise a rusty mess. I wound up taking the interior out, replacing it with crappy interior from my son's coupe and selling it for $2K to a local gearhead. I saw that he put it up for sale about a year later and somehow got the salvage title cleared (another story). Good luck whatever you decide. Tom
  2. Quick question to you: how new/old is your clutch? When I replaced my clutch a few months ago during a toploader rebuild, the clutch made a noise on pedal release for a few days...kind of a "springy" sound. After conferring with PrintDad, he suggested this might just be a clutch break-in thing and quite normal. He was right; the sound went away after a short time. Since you reproduced the noise with the linkage removed, you can rule out the pedal return spring and all linkage suspects (which is good). I'd suggest you drop the tranny, remove the bell-housing, and have a closer look. You can't remove the fork/bearing in place. A clutch is a relatively inexpensive upgrade (assuming your clutch isn't already new) and not terribly hard to do. I hope it isn't your transmission as that can get involved quick. Do you have a toploader? While you have the tranny out, you could pull the cover and do a visual inspection for obvious problems. At the very least, you could drain the old fluid, clean the crap out of it, then replace with a higher-viscosity fluid to potentially eliminate any noises due to potential wear of bearings and whatnot. I'd suspect your clutch and consider a replacement. Keep us posted. Tom
  3. I remember laughing at this line in an old "Police Squad" show (with Leslie Nielsen as the bumbling cop Frank Drebbin). A guy comes in a house, surprising Frank who is already inside. Frank asks him, "Who are you and how did you get in here?". The other guy replies, "I'm a locksmith...and I'm a locksmith".
  4. There are lots of guys here that have documented their restorations...I think you can find them in "The Garage" or "Project Progress Forum". Think twice (or three times) before you get started "tearing this thing down" as you can get to a point of no return pretty fast. This is one expensive hobby and -- as the guys have said -- there is no return on investment other than satisfaction and knowledge (which is awesome). If it were me, I'd get the coupe running as best you can and road-worthy, then stick it on Craigs and hope some local highschooler gearhead finds it. The kind of rust you described would scare the beejeezus out of me for a first-time project. There are lots of pretty great coupes out without all the rust and would make a better basis for your first experiment. Just my $.02. Tom
  5. You got it. The clutch fork simply slips on to that rounded clip on the inside of the bell housing. When the clutch linkage is disconnected, the clutch fork does appear to be only loosely connected, so I can understand your concern. But that's it. To your second question... I wish I could find a picture of a proper bell housing. I took a zillion pics during my rebuild, but not one of the clutch fork assembly. I'm trying to recall how the "fulcrum" looked, but it's a distant memory. I recall there were two "slots" on the fulcrum that the clutch fork attached to. Dang, I'm not helping much here. Maybe somebody here has a photo of the inside of the bell housing? I hope to never remove mine again. Good luck. Tom
  6. Backfiring through the exhaust could also be traced to a rich mixture and/or exhaust leak. Are you certain the floats and fuel level are correct on the carb? Any chance your manifolds/headers are loose and/or the collectors to the exhaust are allowing in some air? Just some random thoughts.
  7. I recall this same problem removing the boy's hood scoop. Just like Mach1Rider said, I remember putting vice grips on the nut and unscrewing the stud from the scoop (pulling down to coax it out). If memory serves, several of the studs were sort of "rotted out" of the scoop. After I got the stud/nut assembly out, I got the nut off by putting the stud in the bench-vice. Finally, I remember epoxying the studs back into the scoop when I replaced it so I could put the nuts back on without the studs turning. Hope this helps. Tom
  8. I also would suspect your switch. The switch has a resistor built into it to control the high/low speeds (like the dimmer on the headlamp switch). My guess is that the high setting is now just an open circuit. You could pull the wires from your switch and connect the +/- to see if the motor operates at high speed. Interesting thing about the motor shutting off after 5 seconds or so. I can't imagine somebody put in some kind of relay but stranger things have happened. If it is your switch, will the guy let you return the motor? It may have been fine all along. Good luck. Tom
  9. Nice to hear from you, Bryan. Don't give the console thing another thought. Water under the bridge, hombre. I was mostly curious if you had any luck selling your GT coupe. Based on your photo above, I see it is still in your possession. The car looks sweet! I was toying with the idea of unloading my coupe as I am realizing that I'm more enthused about working on projects than actually owning the result! Maybe I'm not alone in that sentiment. Anywho, look in on the forum every now and again. Glad you are well. Tom
  10. Monsignor Power, some clarifying questions: Does your left brake light work correctly? Does your left-front parking lamp illuminate correctly? Just ruling out bad bulbs, broken connections, etc. I recall an Green wire (with an orange stripe?) coming out of the turn signal switch that controls the left-rear turn signal but I can't recall if that also fed the front-left turn signal. I'd have to check my wiring diagram. Anywho, I think you're wise to suspect the TS switch. I might suggest you use your meter and see if you're getting 12V coming out of that green-orange wire when the left signal is in operation. Both of my coupes had issues with turn signals and both were cured by replacing the TS switch...which is something of a hassle. I'd verify 12V at that point first but I'd bet a donut it is your TS.
  11. Hey Jim, it sure sounds like you've found the source of your blown fuses! Great! Based on what you've described, I'd say the socket is just plain worn out and should be replaced. I'm pretty sure the map light assembly is a high dollar item but you should be able to just swap out the socket with a new one w/out compromising the period-correctness. As long as the socket fits in the housing, you're good to go. I'd like to think you could find a replacement socket easy enough (though I don't have a clue). Just use butt connectors and some shrink tubing to wire the new socket back in line if you have to make cuts. I don't think it'd be worth trying to repair the socket, IMHO, and I'm sure one of the fellas would be able to direct you to a replacement. Finally, I wouldn't ever concern yourself with the relative importance of your questions. If it's on your mind, it's important! Your pal, Tom
  12. I have no idea how to advise you on the repairs, but I can tell you (shamelessly) that I have a brand new shock tower with frame brace for the driver's side that I'd be happy to sell you for $75 + shipping. I bought both the passenger and driver's side from Virginia Class Mustang for my boy's coupe when we discovered his passenger side was totally cracked. We wound up replacing just the passenger side and the driver's side sits in my basement waiting for either my next project or Armageddon. I think they go for $130ish + shipping, so I think this is a pretty good deal. Again, not helping here, but figured a shameless plug was worth a try. Lemme know if this is interesting for you. Tom
  13. I took a few pictures of the driver's side door that should help you out. Obviously, the passenger side is done exactly the same way. There should be 3 sheet metal screws that attach the fatter end just below the window. This end has the cut out for the glass. You can see this from the photo I hope. The stripping just runs down along the inside edge of the door, under the door, and terminates on the other side. There should be 2 more sheet metal screws that hold this skinnier end in place. The key is the adhesive. I am including a photo of the adhesive I used and it worked great. Apply a thin layer on the rubber itself and a thin layer on the door (be sure to test fit it so you know where to apply the adhesive). Let the adhesive set up for a minute or two (follow the instructions on the tube if it disagrees with me). You can do this alone, but it's nice to have multiple hands as you press the stripping into place. Start from the rear of the door, screw the fat end into place then just press the stripping in place. The adhesive does a real nice job of holding it against gravity. Try not to stretch the stripping as you go or it may not fit right by the time you get to the end. I did this 2 years ago, but I don't recall it being too big of a hassle, and I'm not that good at this stuff. Best of luck! Tom[ATTACH]7180[/ATTACH][ATTACH]7181[/ATTACH][ATTACH]7182[/ATTACH][ATTACH]7183[/ATTACH]
  14. Ah, ok, fair enough. Let me go take a couple of pics and get back to ye.
  15. I think I can help you out, but it would help to know: * Is there any weatherstripping currently on your doors? (i'm guessing no) * Do you have a *complete* replacement kit? A picture of all of it would help. I replaced the stripping completely on my son's coupe, so I think I can help you out with pictures and whatnot. Tom
  16. Hola! I'm not following your question, Ignacio. When you say it's not sealing properly, are you saying that the weatherstripping is installed but you're still getting moisture/water in the trunk? If so, I might suggest you take a picture of the underside of your trunk and post it here so we can see if the stripping is properly placed. Other than that, I wouldn't be surprised to have moisture in your trunk. These cars weren't ever watertight. Tom
  17. I had some problems removing the shaft as well. The trick, as I recall, was to pull the switch out to the halfway position (parking lamps), then pushing the button on the back of the switch. It definitely can get hung up easily so be patient. There isn't that much play in the button as I recall so pushing harder may not do anything. I remember having to work the shaft slightly forwards and backwards with the button pushed until it finally released. In summary, try combinations of shaft locations while pushing the button. Assuming its not just completely broken, it should come out. Best of luck. Tom
  18. Hey gfi, welcome. There's lots of good info here on brake issues if you can master the art of searching the forums (which I have yet to do). What shape is the car in generally? In other words, are you fixing up a junker, wrenching on a driver, or tinkering with a restored beauty? It would help to know hold old and rusty stuff might be. My experience would suggest you look at the wheel cylinders as they can get corroded over time. Make sure they're actually working with pedal operation. Also, agreed with Grabber...any air in your system kills the necessary hydraulic pressure to apply the brakes correctly. Can you explain your process for bleeding the system? It takes 2 folks (generally) and bleeding in a "longest run first" order. Let us know. Tom
  19. Hey, thanks and back atcha! Sweet 'vert for rolling up and down Kalakaua Ave.
  20. I realize this is not the best place to ask this question, but I figured it might be the fastest place for an answer. You out there, bnickel? Tom
  21. I'd respectfully suggest that your tightening method is just fine...maybe too fine (cracking the alternator housing). It's possible that your old (loose) belt "polished" your pulleys and the new belt is still slipping due to that lack of friction. You can take off the new belt and scuff up the pulleys with a scotch pad or sandpaper to test this theory. The squealing may not be due to a loose belt at all and could be the bearings in the various pulleys. I'd start with simple and go from there. Good luck! Tom
  22. Hey Brian, would you care to be a bit more specific? Do you have the original belts or what? I might suggest you lay them out on the garage floor and arrange them by type. Take a group photo and post it here. We can help you identify what goes where. I can tell you this in the meantime: the lap belt must be anchored to the roof and if you have a new headliner, it may be tricky finding the hole. The lap belt will be the "longest" belt. The shorter belts will be for the passenger side. Anywho, I think a picture of your belts will help you the most in our replies. Just my opinion. Tom
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