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Everything posted by foothilltom

  1. I'm stuck trying to figure out what everyone means by the "front clip". Is it the hood, the headlight buckets, the grill, the arrow-shaped piece of sheet metal that sits flat behind the bumper, the bumper, and the front valance? What exactly is the front clip here? Missing it, obviously.
  2. I'll say from the get-go that I'm just a few steps above novice and many of the guys here have restored every nut and bolt on these cars, but I can offer some advice. First, as cool as it is to restore this old cars, I don't know anybody who would say they made any money, let alone "good money" in the process. Parts are expensive and if you hire out for certain things (body, paint), you'll pay big. Even if you do all the work yourself, your hourly rate will hover around $.05. The reality is, it just doesn't pay and you should do it for the "fun", the hobby, or the love of cars. There's a crapload of satisfaction to be had, but I really don't think there's dough in it. I just re-read this and it sounds negative. This is an awesome hobby and I strongly encourage you to plunge in...I'm just saying don't expect to get paid. Try to break even! :) If you're going true restoration, keep your motor as a numbers matching car is going to score more points. If you're warming up to the idea of a "restomod", the sky is the limit. If you're serious about racing it or just getting on it, I can tell you'll get tired of that straight 6 pretty quick. Post some pictures when you can. I'm sure the fellas here will fill your head full of great ideas. The more clarity you have on what you want, the better the info will be. Good luck. Tom
  3. Grabber's counter Q is essential to get good help and opinions here. That said, you've found more than a "really good Mustang forum" by coming here. The guys here are helpful, polite, and extremely knowledgeable. So, if you give us something to hang our hat on (like what are your plans for the car), you'll get tons of good stuff...promise. Welcome.
  4. Keep in mind...all of these circuits go through the turn signal switch (located below your steering wheel). There are about 9 wires coming from here that run to every one of the subsystems you've described. If it were me, I'd get out my test light and test for 12V on each of the various wires coming down the steering column (to the plastic connector under the column) for each system you suspect. For example, engage the left turn signal and measure for 12V on that wire (i believe it was orange with green stripe if memory serves). Use your wiring diagram to make sense of them. If you get no 12V on that wire, it's a good bet your turn signal switch is DOA. I wound up having to replace this turn signal switch on both my Mustangs. It can drive you crazy chasing down the possibilities, but just isolate one circuit at a time and you'll work it out. My $.02, Tom
  5. Hey Dro, there are a bunch of threads in here about gauges malfunctioning, so I would first encourage you to search through them. A "domain restricted" Google search of "gauges not working" returned several good results: http://www.google.com/search?q=gauges+not+working+site%3A1969stang.com&hl=en&num=10&lr=&ft=i&cr=&safe=images&tbs= If you don't find everything you need here, I'm guessing you'll at least be able to narrow down your issue and post the updates. Good luck.
  6. Hey Ranger, I just spoke with a tech guy from a cover store (Covercraft) and his opinion is the fastback cover would be a poor fit for the coupe and he didn't recommend it. The advantage of mirror pockets is fit: it allows the cover to hug the sides better. Strange they don't provide that option for the coupe but it seems universal from my research so far. The guy said they would provide mirror pockets separately with your order and you would have to get them "sewn in" yourself. This is intriguing, but I don't have the kung fu to do that nor do I know and seamstresses! At this point, I'll probably order the coupe version with the separate mirror pouches and potentially deal with that later. The website i'm using is: http://www.carcoverusa.com/Wolf-Car-Covers.html Last thing...the Wolf name appears to be a brand and the logo appears on the site. However, I'm not sure if it is truly a Wolf brand by the time you specify your car and see the options. More later. tom
  7. Thanks for the info Big Secz. I have scoured for the Wolf NOAH brand and found at least one site that carries it for $220-ish. The thing is, it doesn't have mirror pockets for the coupe/vert. It has mirror pockets for Fastbacks only, which I find odd. So my next dumb question is: do you think I'd be better off ordering a fastback cover for a coupe in order to get the mirror pockets or do you think I'd be trading one feature for bad fit? I don't have a fastback nearby to measure, but I'd like to think the overall dimensions are the same? Input appreciated. Tom
  8. Howdy gents and happy early holidays. Am looking to buy the boy a quality car cover for his 69 coupe for Christmas. It (unfortunately) spends most of its time outside. Am looking for a cover that will last a few years and do a good job protecting against the elements. We get a tiny bit of snow, but not a lot. Fair amount of rain. Hot in the summer. I have obviously googled around but was hoping to get some actual recommendations from guys who have actually used them. A custom cover would be swell for best fit. Thanks! Tom
  9. Hey Dro, $800 might go a long way toward solving your current problems, depending on what they are. Do you feel like sharing the issues you're having?
  10. Super excellent advice from the LindenBruce. I have used these on/off techniques ever since I snapped my first insulator by trying to get a socket on a driver's side plug. There isn't much room in there (esp on the driver's side), but it can totally be done. Have fun with it.
  11. You're not alone Handegard. Electronic ignition modules were created to eliminate the crappy game we all play to correctly tune the breaker points.
  12. Most definitely an option. My M code (351W, 4 speed) has no factory tach. A dang shame.
  13. Could those holes be for those plastic wire harness "clips" (for lack of a better term) to hold your trunk wiring harness in place? I can imagine they've broken off many years ago. Just a guess. Tom
  14. Howdy gentlemens, Apologies for another non-technical post from yours truly, but I would like to get your learned opinions on the value of my 69 GT Coupe. I have 3 kids in college and money is tight. Some of you probably know the story of this car (sat in storage for 21 years, trannie rebuild, etc.), but here are the main details: It's an M code GT coupe. 351 Windsor, unknown mileage, PO said 5K on rebuild but he had no documentation. 4-speed Toploader (freshly rebuilt!). New clutch. Holley 650 on Edelbrock Performer. Stock manifolds, dual 2.0" exhaust, Flowmasters. Aftermarket aluminum 3-row radiator. Stock ignition. Factory front discs, new stock MC and Booster. Rebuilt drums. Cragars with Radial T/As with about 400 miles on them. All new fuel system (tank, sending unit, lines, pump). The car has all the actual "GT" details: flip-top gas cap, GT stripes, hood scoop, beefier suspension, etc. 8-track tape player from the early 70's that I've never tried to use. (Anybody have an 8-track tape I can buy from them?) It's Jade Black (original paint) and I'd say it's a cosmetic 8 out of 10 due to a handful of tiny dents from crap falling on it in storage. Mechanically, I'd say it's a 9 out of 10. Electrically a 10. Everything works. Interior is perfect except the PO dyed the original black standard interior beige. It looks really good, but not stock. Painted the dash and all plastic interior to match. Thanks for any thoughts you might have on market value today. I've never sold anything on eBay but I'm thinking that might be a good start. Craigslist is an option, but my area (Sacramento) is pretty depressed right now. Thanks again. Tom
  15. Hey Bob, this is my semi-fuzzy recollection, so it may not be entirely accurate. As you say, there are two "hinges" on the bottom that you slide the seat into. Then there are at least 3 sheet metal screws that attach the left, middle, and right to the sheet metal that makes up the package tray and trunk separator (for lack of a better term). Good luck. tom
  16. Angel's description is spot on. I am responding only because I had to do this same thing in my garage on my GT coupe. I can offer a few random thoughts: If you buy new fuel lines, they come in 2 pieces (as Angel already said). The rear piece needs to be "unbent" as they bend it to fit in the carton. Be careful with this process so you don't destroy it. Be prepared to make little adjustments to the tubing. I bought a tubing bender, but wound up just using my hands. You'll need sections of rubber fuel hose to connect the rear line to the tank sending unit, to connect the rear and front pieces of tubing under the driver's side frame (right behind the wheel well), to connect to your fuel pump, etc. I had my old fuel lines to use a guide, so you may need additional info on how to route the lines along the frame, where to connect to the body, etc. I'd be happy to take some pictures for you...just let me know. It's a couple of hour job for sure and it was helpful for me to have the car as high up as I could get it on 4 jack stands. Good luck! Tom
  17. Thanks for the response, Cobra. I think that process would work for lights that are more or less already in the ballpark. I've just replaced mine and all 4 are pointing various places. But...what I can infer from that process is the high beams (inner lights) should appear in between the low beams horizontally (and not necessarily higher or lower vertically). I would also think that at some point, the beams have to be "below" and "inside" the marks you describe at some distance, otherwise the lights would just shine out into infinity while driving. I mean, shouldn't the lights "converge" at some point out in front of the car? I can't imagine they are perfectly parallel, but i'm probably overthinking of all this. And to PDad...my bad! I never seem to notice my PMs. Reading it now. Will catch up with you soon and thanks in advance for any wisdom on my question. Tom
  18. Howdy Dave, I wouldn't start buying parts yet. What you're describing sounds like the door handle release hardware inside your door isn't "releasing" properly. For example, if you tried to close your working door while keeping the door handle button pushed, your door wouldn't latch and would just bounce back open. My suggestion would be to pull your door panel and clean the entire locking/latching mechanism as best you can, then apply a small amount of lithium grease to the various connection points. I'm guessing something inside the door panel is awry, not the external latching mechanism. Good luck, Tom
  19. Howdy fellers. Been awhile since I had a dumb question, so let's get right to it: I'm finally getting around to replacing the original (dim) headlamps in the coupe and am moving onto adjustment phase. I am pretty comfortable with the process of aligning the low-beams, but I can't seem to find any reference for how the high beams should look relative to the low-beams. Can anybody describe the pattern the 4 bulbs should make on a garage door, for example? Should the high beams (inner lights) be above, in between, or below the outer lights in the high-beam setting? And while I'm here, I notice that the outer lights beam pattern moves "up and to the left" of center in the high beam setting. Should I therefore align the lights a little more "lower and to the right" of center? I hope this makes sense. I've scanned my chilton, searched the forums, and can't seem to find any good common-sense info about the pattern our beloved 4 lights should make. Thanks mucho. Tom
  20. I was going to suggest, "turn up the stereo".
  21. I don't know, but my guess is for the ignition box (the red aftermarket gizmo on the driver's side of the engine compartment) or perhaps an aftermarket tach? After looking at my wiring diagram (you really ought to get comfortable with one of those if you're going to undertake this project), my guess is your starting problem is due to a bad ignition switch. The ignition switch applies power to your starter solenoid, which obviously applies power to the starter itself. Since you can shunt across the solenoid (taking the switch out of the equation), I believe everything else is wired correctly. I'd suggest you comb these threads for a "how to" on ignition switch replacement. You're right, your interior is in good shape. The rust on this car looks pretty bad, unfortunately. Good luck.
  22. It sounds a lot like an improperly wired solenoid or a bad ignition switch. Clearly you shouldn't be doing this with a pair of pliers. I would be concerned about electrocuting yourself. The box full of solenoids should serve as a reminder. If they short out during this experiment, you could be next. I would strongly encourage you to take a methodical approach to this problem: take photos of how it is currently wired, get help with the proper wiring, and further diagnose. It could be as simple as a bad ignition switch. Be careful. Tom
  23. Agreed with Mach1, it smells like a bad ground. To verify, take some jumper cables, attach to + and - on your battery, attach + to the positive wire on the pump, and ground the other - cable to the body of the pump itself. It should turn if it's a good pump.
  24. The first video was awesome! The last 4 seconds had me cracking up: where your wife peeks her head in the garage and says "God!" obviously because of the terrible racket you were creating sans headers. We've all been there! I remember when I first started my 351 without headers...my golden retriever just bolted down our driveway like it was the end of the world.
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