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buening

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  1. Like
    buening got a reaction from steferg in wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes   
    2013-2018 ATS.  Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. 
    The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file.  I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.
  2. Like
    buening got a reaction from RPM in wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes   
    2013-2018 ATS.  Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. 
    The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file.  I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.
  3. Like
    buening got a reaction from TexasEd in wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes   
    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price).  They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
     
    I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  4. Like
    buening got a reaction from RPM in wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes   
    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price).  They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
     
    I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  5. Like
    buening got a reaction from bigmal in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    Excellent job Bigmal!  Definitely not too difficult once you get it all planned out.
  6. Like
    buening got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in Rear suspension   
    Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
     
    Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).
  7. Like
    buening got a reaction from SM69Mach in Rear suspension   
    Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
     
    Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).
  8. Like
    buening got a reaction from RPM in Rear suspension   
    Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
     
    Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).
  9. Like
    buening got a reaction from RPM in Front suspension ideas...   
    Budget?
    One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html
  10. Like
    buening got a reaction from latoracing in Front suspension ideas...   
    Budget?
    One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html
  11. Like
    buening got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in Front suspension ideas...   
    Budget?
    One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html
  12. Like
    buening got a reaction from mwye0627 in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    Don't be afraid to epoxy tabs onto the inside of the mirror housing.  I'm wrapping up my electric mirror mods using SN95 mustang motors, and used bent sheet metal tabs epoxied to help stiffen up the mounting plate. 
  13. Like
    buening got a reaction from bigmal in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    No problem! These motors are also the same as the Fox body mustang's, but dont have the detachable plastic mirror backing. It is instead plastic riveted/fused. I found out the SN95 mustang's use the same mirror motor for either side, which caused initial headache with the switch I used which had specific LH/RH motors. I was getting the LH motor going down when I was pressing up on the switch. Swapping the wires around fixed that!
  14. Like
    buening got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

  15. Like
    buening got a reaction from RPM in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

  16. Like
    buening got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    Pictures of my drivers mirror.  Not the same motors you are using, but may provide some ideas to help you. The SN95 motors have a removable plastic backing that snap off the motors (the black plate shown in the last picture).  I trimmed it down to the size of our mirrors. My mirror glass is currently at the glass place being cut.

  17. Like
    buening got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    Passenger side.  I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it.  Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to.   Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch.  With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!
     
     




  18. Thanks
    buening got a reaction from bigmal in Remote Motorized Side View Mirrors Using stock 1969 to 73 housings   
    Passenger side.  I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it.  Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to.   Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch.  With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!
     
     




  19. Like
    buening got a reaction from RPM in What is this part?   
    There is also an outer bumper bracket that installs on top of this one
     
    https://www.cjponyparts.com/bumper-bracket-front-outer-driver-side-1969-1970/p/BB3OL/
  20. Like
    buening got a reaction from lalojamesliz in Widest rear tire/wheels for a 69 coupe   
    If you want a drag radial for the back that will have good street manners (wet driving, noise, etc), the NT555R tires are more popular with the street guys.  You get more life out of them and are more of a street/drag hybrid, rather than the full out nearly-slicks tread pattern of the NT05R.   You could go with NT555R in the back and NT555 in the front.
     
     
     
  21. Like
    buening got a reaction from RPM in Widest rear tire/wheels for a 69 coupe   
    Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275.  The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315.  Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it.
     
    Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.
     
     
  22. Like
    buening got a reaction from lalojamesliz in Widest rear tire/wheels for a 69 coupe   
    Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275.  The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315.  Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it.
     
    Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.
     
     
  23. Like
    buening got a reaction from Randyunutt in DIY Eccentric Eliminators   
    This is an old topic from me, but when reviewing my signature links for dead pictures I realized I never created an actual thread about it here on 69stang (just on the VMF). For those that enjoy fabricating their own stuff to save money, I've created a PDF with dimensions to create your own eccentric eliminators. Its really easy to do as long as you can accurately centerpunch and drill the holes. Once one plate is made, use a transfer punch using the completed plate onto the 2nd plate. Harbor Freight has transfer punches in case you don't have any, they are handy when replicating parts.
     
    Attached below is the PDF as well as pics below, not of the actual fab'd plates but of what the aftermarket versions look like.
     
    The numbers on the drawing are intended to be stamped into the plate so that you can keep track of the orientation of each plate. The numbers are sequential to the slight changes in camber. There is also a small hole drilled near the lower left corner, also to help with orientation. I also notice many have updated their plates to only include 2 holes. I only have the 3 hole version, but if someone has the two hole one I'd be curious how the dimensions measure up. My guess is they don't allow for as fine of camber adjustments as the 3 hole does.






    Eccentric Eliminator Plate.pdf
  24. Like
    buening got a reaction from overtonefour in Hood Alignment for Dummies   
    If the rear of the hood is higher than the cowl and you've gone through the adjustment method of having someone push up on the hood while you tighten the hinge bolts at the apron, most likely the hinges are worn.  With the hood closed, can you press the corners of the hood down with your hand?  If so, the hinges are worn.  There was a post on here where someone took their hinges off and used a hammer and punch on a bench vice/anvil to recompress the rivets at the hinge points.
  25. Like
    buening got a reaction from Zefevinee in The T56 conversion into a 70 Mach 1   
    Well it's been awhile in the making and I'm setting some time aside to create a thread on this, as I'll likely need tips as I proceed. The car is a 70 Mach with a 351w and an FMX trans that leaked out of every crevice possible. Below is a parts list, prices paid, and some pictures of those parts. I set out try and save money where I could in order to get a few more comforts like hydraulics. My goals for this project are to minimize the changes to the car that can't be reversed easily, such as hacking up the trans tunnel to fit the beast in there. My wife is due August 15th with our first child, so I'll be hauling balls trying to get this conversion complete.
     
    Parts List thus far:
     
    2004 Cobra T-56 used with 29k miles - $900
    Quicktime RM-8031 Bellhousing new - $350 from Corral.net group buy
    Spec Stage II SF482 kevlar clutch and pressure plate -- Slightly used (one run on dyno) -- $190 from Corral.net classifieds
    Spec SF05A billet aluminum flywheel (yes I know DD negatives with lightweight flywheels) -- New in box -- $250 from Corral.net classifieds
    Pro 5.0 billet shifter with Steeda Tri-Ax shifter -- Slightly used -- $75 from SVTPerformance.com classifieds
    Hurst white 6spd shifter ball - $30
    Cobra slip yoke used - $50
    Dynotech 46.5" x 4" x 0.065" steel driveshaft used from NASCAR - $38 shipped
    Mustang original clutch pedal assembly - $170 shipped
    MustangSteve roller bearing kit - $40
    ModernDriveline LF Master Cylinder kit - $235
    McLeod 1400-30 Hydraulic Throwout bearing with sleeve - $359
    24" stainless hydraulic line - $39
    3"x1"x1/8" rectangular tubing 4' long for the custom trans crossmember - $30
    Custom motor mounts - roughly $50 See build thread here: http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,6383.0.html
     
     
    Pictures:

     

     

     

     

     

     
     

     

     
     

     
     
     

     

     

     
    Thats all for the parts list. I'm up to about $2900 for everything including miscellaneous ARP bolts and other hardware.
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