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I have one that I pulled from my mach recently that I took pics of for you. If you need any others let me know. There is a small notch on the back of the bezel, which should be replicated in the dash hole. That keeps the alignment of the light and prevents it from spinning. There are also the fingers that you see, which when you push the bezel through the dash those fingers that get compressed when going through the hole then expand and prevent the bezel from separating from the dash. Hope this makes sense. I also took a pic of the relay, which mounts to the turn signal relay stack. The power bullet connector connects to the accessory 3-bullet wire on the fuse box.

Mystang, what specs were your car aligned to? The issues you describe sound more like an alignment issue but I could be wrong. Opentracker has some good spec recommendations: https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/

Budget? One of the better ones out there: http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

The mirror base still has the tabs on the sides and they hold quite well. I have to flex the base in order to remove it. Will know more once I get the mirror glass installed and hit a few Illinois pot holes :)

Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

No problem! These motors are also the same as the Fox body mustang's, but dont have the detachable plastic mirror backing. It is instead plastic riveted/fused. I found out the SN95 mustang's use the same mirror motor for either side, which caused initial headache with the switch I used which had specific LH/RH motors. I was getting the LH motor going down when I was pressing up on the switch. Swapping the wires around fixed that!

Passenger side. I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it. Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to. Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch. With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!

Pictures of my drivers mirror. Not the same motors you are using, but may provide some ideas to help you. The SN95 motors have a removable plastic backing that snap off the motors (the black plate shown in the last picture). I trimmed it down to the size of our mirrors. My mirror glass is currently at the glass place being cut.

Don't be afraid to epoxy tabs onto the inside of the mirror housing. I'm wrapping up my electric mirror mods using SN95 mustang motors, and used bent sheet metal tabs epoxied to help stiffen up the mounting plate.

I could be wrong, but pretty sure the 70 mustang didn't have a door ajar warning (only cougar). The 3-wire switch is on cars with the Convenience Group Option and is only the passenger side switch, and it operates the seat back release solenoids when you open the door. It was so you didn't have to press the lever to push the seatback forward. Assuming your car is assembled, there will be solenoids and wiring on your seats (orange and black wires).

I'm nearing the end of my SN95 mustang electric mirror conversion. Passenger side is almost complete, with the drivers still to be started. Once I get it wrapped up I'll take a few pics. The issue with the passenger mirrors is they are only mounted with one screw at the bottom, so vibration will almost always be an issue as the mount will flex. I had to epoxy two bent tabs to the roof of the mirror housing, with a metal plate bolted to those two tabs and the bottom mount that was ground down further back (due to the thicker electric motor). I'm hoping the 3-point mount with a rigid plate mount will eliminate the flex issues of the passenger mirror.

Nevermind, I figured it out. I had the 12v battery and courtesy light feed wires swapped. All works now :)

Which factory wire do you tap into for your overhead harness?

Finally back to working on the stang again, and am installing an SN95 mustang rearview mirror with map lights. The mirror map lights need a dome light feed so that they turn on when the door is opened. It also needs to be 12v, and from my understanding, these car's courtesy lights run on a reverse ground system. Connecting the floor courtesy light wires to the mirror dome light wire makes my courtesy lights on even when the doors are closed.....which I believe the ground is feeding back into the courtesy light from the rearview mirror. How have you handled this wire on an map lighted rearview mirror install? Much appreciated!

There is also an outer bumper bracket that installs on top of this one https://www.cjponyparts.com/bumper-bracket-front-outer-driver-side-1969-1970/p/BB3OL/

Has anyone had issues with the trunk lock hole punched too far up into the crease? I test fitted the lock cylinder and found that it won't sit flush due to its position. I'm working on seeing if they are all this way, and if so I'll modify the lock hole to move the lock further down.This is on the 1970 dynacorn panel, not the 69.

Does the car tend to nosedive when you apply the brakes? I had a sensitive brake issue before and it turned out to be a leak in the rear brake line, causing only the front brakes to work.

If you want a drag radial for the back that will have good street manners (wet driving, noise, etc), the NT555R tires are more popular with the street guys. You get more life out of them and are more of a street/drag hybrid, rather than the full out nearly-slicks tread pattern of the NT05R. You could go with NT555R in the back and NT555 in the front.

Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275. The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315. Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it. Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.

If the rear of the hood is higher than the cowl and you've gone through the adjustment method of having someone push up on the hood while you tighten the hinge bolts at the apron, most likely the hinges are worn. With the hood closed, can you press the corners of the hood down with your hand? If so, the hinges are worn. There was a post on here where someone took their hinges off and used a hammer and punch on a bench vice/anvil to recompress the rivets at the hinge points.

Outside of the CRL stuff, my process was pretty much the same. I used 3m 8693 Urethane between the glass and the rubber, and glazing n bedding in the body channel adjacent to the rubber. This was based on everything I read. I have been installing the clips before filling the body channel with goop, because it seems like it creates an air pocket if I install the clips after. Maybe I need to do a thin layer first, install clips, and then to the "filling" after. Also, the glazing and bedding seems to skin over and makes installing trim difficult if you pack the channel too full. The CRL sounds like it doesn't even skin over, so may work better with the molding. I've tried letting the G&B set up for a few days and then install trim (which ended up in some denting of trim), and also installed the trim immediately after applying the G&B (much easier to install trim, but no way to water-test it). The time I let it set up, it didn't have a single leak until I installed the molding....which opens up the clips and likely found a way through the clips and channel. Needless to say my multiple process experiments haven't worked and figured I'd see what the heck people on here do, because somethings gotta eventually work!

Well this has certainly caught me off guard. Everywhere I've read (forums, online mag articles, etc) its stated to use glazing and bedding compound for the rear glass. This stuff is horribly messy as well, and I would say its like roofing tar almost. Heating it up seems to make it flow better. Mikestang, any idea how the CRL stuff compares to glazing & bedding? It almost sounds like Ridge puts the strips on the body channel, and then drops the glass/weatherstripping into place and does the rope trick. I would think the bottom lip of the weatherstripping would move the caulk strip around when you pull the rope, since the W/S rests on the body channel until you pull the rope and pull the W/S over the body channel lip.

There is a very large thread on the VMF about this conversion, with many people successfully doing and loving the conversion. I assume you know of the thread since the photo posted was the creator of that thread. The trick of the conversion is the controller module, which Bruno from UK sells but isn't speed-driven like modern computer cars. Bruno's is variable assist, but is driven by a potentiometer knob instead of VSS. A guy on VMF figured out how to make a module tied to VSS, but due to liability reasons he won't sell them and won't tell anyone how to build one. Most people just find a comfortable setting on the knob and leave it be. Its a relavitely popular mod for the early cars but I've only seen a few 69/70 cars with it done. I'm not a fan of the aftermarket solutions because they don't brace the servo motor to the dash very well. Link to thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/787114-best-200-mod-ever-eps.html

Anyone here that has done fastback rear glass have any tips on getting it sealed up around these clips? I pry the clips open and squirt the 3m bedding & glazing in and around the clips, as well as the channel between the clips. I water test it before I put the molding on and its all sealed up, then install the molding and the stupid thing leaks in numerous locations, mostly the clips on the sides of the glass (not the top or bottom sides). The water comes in from behind the quarter sail panels and then runs out onto the package tray, so I know its not the seal between the glass and the rubber weatherstripping. The weatherstripping is the better Daniel Carpenter rubber. Thoughts? I've removed and redone the bedding & glazing 3 times and still leaks, so I'm obviously consistent in doing it incorrectly. I'm particular in cleaning up the body lip so that no old compound is left, so adhesion shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks! I had done these quite a few years ago, mostly including the PDF and pics in responses to people starting threads about the eliminators and such. Let me know if you have any questions GypsyR! Pretty basic stuff. Grabber, life has been super busy with a 4yr old boy and 6yr old girl at home and an accelerating career. Hoping to get back into the mustang hobby again