sizemoremk

Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll stick with the granada setup and replace the calipers, MC and booster. I redid the rubber lines a few years ago as well as the hard lines with that copper/nickel stuff several years back, as well as installed a combination/proportioning valve from a granada (previously missing). I have checked the combination valve, and it is not "tripped" but I am curious if those "centering tools" for the common GM type valves will work on the ford combo valve? I'm not sure how much of a pain it is to un-tripp it if it gets stuck on one side r the other. As for new booster and master: It appears that booster steve/ booster dewey have been sold and it doesn't quite sound like there isn't much information available on current booster rebuilders right now; so I am thinking I might shelf my old bendix booster core and try the "tuff stuff" 2225NB unit. I seen a few threads where a couple of guys have had success using that one. Tuff Stuff Booster: Brake Booster #2225NB - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories Tuff Stuff Booster with Master (1" bore): Master Cylinder And Booster #2125NB-3 - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories Tuff Stuff website says both are US made parts... I have lost faith in most things found at the local parts stores...Does anyone have good reason not to go with either of the tough stuff parts? There products in general seem to get good reviews at summit. I can't find much info about the sources or quality of these master cylinders I see listed from various vendors or parts store; I seen a couple mentions of the Raybestos MC36251 but I don't see anything to make the think this unit is any better than the cheap junk at the local parts store. Calipers: Any thoughts on sources for calipers? The NUGEON units listed at Rock Auto claim to be remanufactured in USA... Mine are pretty old and rusty, so for the effort of sandblasting, painting, and rebuilding, might as well and replace them. As for the pads, I can't seem to find any EBC pads for the granada calipers. Porterfield's seem available a few places and all the reviews I see except for that one fella, seems to think those pads are pretty good. So anyone else have reservations on the porterfields? Hawk better?

Hello all, we have a 69 coupe we've been working on for the Mrs and I'm ready to completely redo the braking system before she puts it back on the road. Its a moderate 302 build with the Holley sniper EFI, aftermarket AFR heads, moderate cam, longtube headers, 3.55s with AOD transmission. The car will be a (nice weather) driver for the wife and we will not be doing any racing but I do want really good brakes. The car came to us with bastardized granada setup (the seller said they were granada spindles/calipers) where they had put adjustable proportion vales on both left and right fronts?!?! I got rid of those and replaced the master and such some time back but the brakes have always sucked. I have no idea if I have the most appropriate booster/master/pedal and/or combination valve for this setup,. I don't trust anything about the brake setup or its age. I am going to replace all of it no mater what but I'm curious if this granada based setup could be sufficient, or if I should really look at some aftermarket setups from SOT or wilwood, etc??? I do like the idea of the rear disc but not sure if those upgrades are more trouble than they are worth in our case? We do prefer to keep the 15" mag wheels we have now.... So I guess I'd like opinions on whether the granada brakes can be made to work well, and if so, what master/booster/combo valve/brake pedal option would I be looking for? As mentioned I'm not sure if what it has now is anywhere near correct. I like the idea of a full package deal with all the parts matched, so any recommendations on a source for those components would be appreciated! For those that believe the granada setup is not the way to go, please suggest an aftermarket option that would fit the 15" wheels. Thanks!

DANG! I just did the exact same thing a couple of days ago, but I used two 4 inch clarions... Didn't have any idea two 4x6s would fit in there...

Thanks danno, I really appreciate it! I have a couple of questions on this diagram. If you look at the blue line, it isn't clear where it is going, do you see anymore detail on what the blue line is doing? Also, I notice what looks like an "X" marked on the page, where it looks like a "correction" was written on the diagram saying to connect the purple to the black tee, rather than the that purple to the brown tee? Am I seeing that right? Any idea what that is about? Maybe between the pics I took before disassembly and this diagram I'll be set! Thanks!

I'm back messing with the car some more now, curious if anyone else has anything else to add. I am still on the fence about swapping to the aftermarket system, but leaning towards fixing the factory setup.. This is not a show car, it will be closer to a fair weather daily driver when I am done. My wife drove the car about daily a few years ago before I decided to swap to EFI and AOD transmission. For this reason I wonder if the way to go is the aftermarket system using 134. I'm probably a ways off from the A/C work anyways, she would rather deal without A/C for a summer or two and have some bodywork and paint done first. I have the dash out now replacing the heater core, it has a few year old but never unsealed evaporator (with the manufacturers caps still in place). I also have a new (few year old) condenser and dryer with caps still in place. I also have a York compressor I think can rebuilt, and might have a line on some R12 also. Would need to order new hoses, or have some new A/C hoses made. On the compressor, if I went with the newer sanden compressor and converted to 134, would it really work well with the factory style condenser/dryer/hoses? For the time being, I'm kinda thinking of replacing the vacuum pods and doing all of the dash work, so I do not have to pull it all out again with newer paint and interior work done. Then I can redo the rest of the factory system later. What I am most concerned about is the routing of the vacuum lines in the dash, as I do not trust any of it currently, several were plugged or disconnected. I have ordered one vacuum pod to make sure the one I selected fits, then I can order some more if that one works out. I would need the heat and defrost to work until I go back with the rest of the underhood A/C stuff. Has anyone used the CJ Pony or Scott drake vacuum kits for themselves? Were good vacuum diagrams included? Thanks!

Well I can't find the vacuum pods for less than $50 each NOS on ebay, the scott drake ones are about $65-$70 and the two port one looks like $85-90).. If you have a source, please let me know. Thanks for the input, I'll see about the scott drake diagrams. Thanks!

Time to look at A/C in the wifes 69 coupe with EFI/AOD swap. Car has factory air, but all kinds of problems with the A/C and such. At least 2 of the vacuum pods don't hold vacuum. One of the A/C switches is broken in the controls, and I have no confidence that the vacuum hoses are routed correctly. Was going to put it off till after other tasks, but had to replace heater core. The heater box has tons of fiberglass repair and pretty much had to glue it together with automotive goop when replacing the heater core... I have new condenser and dryer, new evaporator and that's about it. I actually have the York compressor and bracketry still, but my understanding is that I'm better off not using the York compressor and upgrading to the sanden style compressor. So wondering if I am better off tossing the whole system and going with "the perfect fit" from Classic Auto Air or something similar? Anyone use one of those newer complete systems?

Hey guys, reviving this old post to see if there are anymore inputs. I am no fabricator, so I'm wondering if I'm better off getting new shells, or trying to repair the old ones. On at least one door, the lower part of the skin has some rusted through spots, probably on the other door as well. One door is rusted through the bottom of the shell in a couple of spots. I believe I might could reskin the lower 5-10" of the door, but I'm not sure I'm talented enough to do much about the rot in the bottom of the shell. I hear some of these aftermarket shells are tons of trouble also? Anyone had luck with one recently?

I have a 69 coupe, and I am in the final stages of wiring in the harness for my EFI swap. I took pictures of things, but cannot find one for the particular angle of the starter solenoid and voltage regulator area. There is a large eye terminal with two wires, a black and a black/red going into the alternator harness. It looks like it connects to eiteher a ground around the voltage regulator, or one of the starter solenoid lugs. For clarity, this is part of the 69 harness, not the EFI harness that I am installing. Can someone say with certainty which it is? Thanks guys!