Kaspar

I understand. It's the lack of space that is annoying me too. I have 14" Summit straight thru mufflers on now, but maybe I can add a transverse muffler if that might help? I'm also thinking of swapping to 18" Walker, but don't wanna restrain the engine. I wish it could sound like a modern sportscar that is quiet when exiting the driveway and passing the neighbours and then once I floor it in the highway it roars.

How much HP would a mon straight thru mufflers like the Walker lille, compared to a straight thru Magnaflow? Am thinking of doing that swap also, because of the noise.

I'm trying to adjust the linkage but can't seem to make it better. How much/little do I need to adjust? Are we talking 1-2mm?

My C4 is starting to behave a little annoying. It won't go from Park to Reverse, though I have no problem going from Neutral to Reverse. Thoughts?

Interesting. Am interested in seeing photos of this solution, when you've installed it :-)

I'm curious to hear what you guys have done to steal proof your cars? Batteri in the trunk, Alarm, cut off fuel line, or what are the options/ideas? thanks.

Pulled the whole thing apart today and it doesn't look the shaft has had any damage, though the converter is all smooth without any splines left, so it must be a much softer material than the shaft.

Is it difficult to change the shaft, if it's broken? And would I need a new pump too?

Hey guys. I ended up buying the ATK 351w with 385hp: http://www.high-performance-engines.com/ford-351w-complete-engine-385hp-p/hp11c.htm The best choice. It came perfectly assembled and a great fit. Only had to change the headers and mounting brackets for the power steering and generator. The dyno sheets from ATK that they did actually says it performs 395hp and 430 torque. It's really great. Much better idle than my 302 with the Edelbrock RPM Performer Top End kit I had installed before. Thanks for all your inputs.

I just installed a new torque converter in my 1969 C4. I got it from JEGS, who said the Hughes 42-20 would fit. However the wheel aren't moving at all. After a lot of checking the oil pressure, cables, etc. I found out that the one JEGS had sold me has 26 splines. Whereas I can google that the C4s up until 1969 only has 24 splines. It's strange, cause it really seemed like a perfect fit and everything aligned fine, when assembling it. Do you think that my 24 splines are now ruined from the 26 splines? It's kind of a drag, but just wanna hear if you know anything about this, before ordering a different converter? Or is it a better idea to change to shaft to 26 splines? And how big a project is it to change the shaft? Thanks, Kaspar

So I've read about and talked to most of the various engines and builders on this post, and I've now ordered a complete 351W (385hp) Dyno'd engine from ATK through Summit. Comparing all the parts and reputation it seems like the best deal to me. Tristar doesn't use Dart 1 heads, but Pro Comp casting that they get bare and then do their own machine work on. Their cam is more aggressive but get's about the same torque (actually a little less) than ATK who uses Dart 1 heads and a milder cam. Overall I think the ATK engine has better parts and paying around $600 more for them seems like is what I'm gonna be happiest with in the long run.

I've talked to Tri Star, CMEngines and ATK. They all use a seasoned block that is fully remanufactured. I'm awaiting on the shipping quotes from Tri Star and CMEngines. I did find another 351w engine in Germany that would save me a lot of money shipping-wise: http://www.ebay.de/itm/351W-V8-5-8L-Ford-Small-Block-V8-Stage-2-Performernocke-Mustang-Pick-Up-Cougar-/302302850760?hash=item4662a76ec8:g:ONMAAOSwIgNXsYRZ Hmm...

You're completely right and I'm learning a lot from this forum :-)

With so many options and thinking of possible future upgrades I've now decided to go with a 351W engine. I've read great things about Tri Star's engines, however they don't ship internationally, so I need to figure out how to ship it to Denmark which seems incredible expensive if I need to arrange it myself. But it's this engine I wanna buy: https://www.tristarengines.com/performance/ford/351/351w-ford-380-hp-410-torque-street-complete-dyno-d-hp-crate-engine-with-hp-aluminum-cylinder-heads - with full roller cam, lifters, rocker arms. If it's gonna be too expensive and complicated to handle the international shipping myself, I'm gonna go with this ATK engine from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hpe-hp11c/overview/make/atk They seem to have a good shipping deal, which will only cost me $600 by air. There is also cmengines, which I'm waiting to hear from, but I'm kind of leaning towards paying a little more and getting something completely new. I hope to make a decision this week, but am still open to other ideas :-)

So I've talked to a bunch of shops and engine builders and have narrowed my choice down to either buying a complete engine from CMEngines or reusing what I have and build my own. cmengines can sell me their “Top of the Line” Complete 302 “Stroker” 331/325 horsepower “Mild” idle, Balanced, Blueprinted, and Dyno Tested engine for $4296. It's a complete build that has been tested and works perfectly. Then I've been talking with Summit about what I should buy to build a similar engine. They can sell me the following: ATK 331CI engine crate: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-sp13 Lunati Roller Cam and lifters: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lun-20350514lk/overview/ Reuse my Edelbrock RPM heads, but change the springs to these: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lun-73084-16/overview/ https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lun-75743-16/overview/ And then reuse my Edelbrock RPM manifold It's gonna save me $1500 to build my own and reuse whatever I have that still works, however getting a complete engine from cmengines might be a safer choice.