Jump to content

det0326

Members
  • Content Count

    1,476
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

det0326 last won the day on May 14 2020

det0326 had the most liked content!

About det0326

  • Rank
    69 RUSTBACK
  • Birthday 03/26/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Anderson. S.C.

Converted

  • Location
    South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have since sold that car but I don't ever remember having to steer it back straight, if it didn't come back dead center it was by such a small amount I never noticed it. Turning radius was just like stock box, stop to stop.
  2. It fit good no denting the shock tower but had to dent one tube on the dougs tri-y headers and I think that is because there's an adapter plate between box and frame rail which moves it toward the headers by about a 1/4 inch.
  3. I was happy with return to center but I did a few things to the front end when I built it to get as munch positive caster as i could. I think I wound up with about 5.5 degrees positive.
  4. I used the CPP which is built like an early chevy integral box except with a 13.8 to 1 ratio. A few years back when I built the front end on my car all Borgenson had was the remanufactured Toyota box and they had a lot of complaints about them. I think the ones they have now tho are decent but can't really say because I have never used one. I really liked the CPP one tho had good road feel. If I had to describe the road feel I would say a lot like our old 2003 Toyota Highlander. So maybe why I liked it because I was already used to it.
  5. I have a 4R transmission that was pulled from a 2001 LTD that is disassembled and in boxes. I can't remember what all I used from it I know I used the gear set and I think the forward drum in an AOD. Anyway I'm in upstate SC was wondering if any one would have a use for it. I am cleaning up and will be trashing it so if someone wants it, it is yours.
  6. I had a set of those too. Can't put my hands on them right now tho. If I remember correctly they came with full floor pan that I purchased and i did not use them cause i did not have a fold down rear seat.
  7. I used tanks inc. tank and ran supply and return on the passenger side. The only reason I picked that side tho was I came through the rear fender apron on passenger side and wasn't has much stuff on that side to work around.
  8. I am sure u have seen this guy around the forum used to be on alot. He did an excellent job I think. If u PM him I bet he could throw some numbers at you. New Center Console - The Garage - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
  9. I used the Tanks Inc. and didn't like the lines in the trunk area but it was the only one available at the time. Unless Tanks has changed there pumps it is very noisy I changed my pump to the Aeromotive one.
  10. been a long time since I did one but I seem to remember some spot welds along each side on the lower piece u can't get to unless the upper piece is off.
  11. Bob is correct if the two tie rod ends are of unequal lengths would cause a short turning radius on one side. This could have been done intentionally because of a lot of wear in the center location where these old manual boxes are worn.
  12. Any sheet metal that might have been replace on the drivers side with after market panels could cause this issue. Check the length of all the panels on that side with the other side to see if there are any differences. I had an after market door once that was too short. DreamCar is right that would be my first move is to measure the wheel base on both sides, if the drivers side comes up short because the caster is set negative then check panels.
  13. also if I remember correctly the cables have to go back in the same hole or the knob won't be in sync with the mirror. This is because the knob housing is clocked to go into door panel housing only one way.
  14. exactly what i was going to suggest Lanky. I did this to mine and also set the shaft in control arm forward a thread or two. all this made the grease fitting to close the the shock tower so I plugged the original hole so I positioned everything the way would be torqued down and marked the nut hex flat facing out. took back apart and drilled and taped the hole. With this modification and lower control arm pulled forward as far as I could without tire rub on valance I got 5 degrees caster. I had CPP intergral steering box similar to Borgensen and the car drove awesome.
  15. u can get trans tailshaft angle also from crank pulley if u can get to it.
×
×
  • Create New...