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About jrw69

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  • Birthday 10/25/1947

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    1969 Mach 1s

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  1. Contacted Opentracker Racing and ordered the roller idler arm. $85 plus shipping. Thought I would go this route first. If it improves steering then it's good enough and won't have the hassle of fitting Borgeson and header and z-bar issues. Have gotten good feedback on this from Mach 1 and others. When I get it installed I will post results.
  2. Thanks Mike Am looking at that as an option also. Better than new z-bar and kit and getting everything to fit with headers and all.
  3. Thanks to both. I also read about the issues with the collapsible steering shaft issues with the bushings and see this could be a problem. I now have have the Flaming River Steering Box which is better than the stock but still is tough turning sometimes. I will have to think more on this before changing. I agree on aftermarket things not meeting expectations, some is totally junk. Thanks jrw69
  4. Finally tired of armstrong steering. I am looking at Borgenson kit but need to change z bar and may have header clearance issue. I have a 1969 Mach 351W with top loader and Hooker Long Tube headers. I looked at new z bar orp 67 at Open Track Racing for changing z bar and clearing the header tube and it seems to be the answer for all clearance issues. I know from the forum some have luck and some are nightmares so wondering if this makes it. I know different headers makes a difference so can use some advice before spending the bucks. JRW69 Thanks
  5. I have a set of original door panels off my 1969 Mach 1. Panels are in need of total restoration of carpet, hardware and vinyl. Car is a Dearborn build with panels from the Utica Plant stamped on back of the masonite. C9ZB-65241A08-A and C9ZB65241A09-A. FoMoCo. I can send pics if interested.
  6. will do, battery is 5 or 6 yrs old now. Thanks Brian
  7. Today tried to start and starter clicked then nothing. I had the door open and all the interior lights went out. I waited a minute then tried again and the same, starter clicked and all interior lights went out again. Checked battery with meter and had 12V then checked solenoid had 12V. Almost seems like you turn off the ignition before it starts. I wait a minute and the same condition. Any ideas, maybe voltage regulator? or bad solenoid? I checked the grounds and seemed ok. Any ideas? Have original wire harness but never had this before. 69 Mach 351W. Thanks
  8. 1969_Mach 1 Thanks for this reminder. I have a 11" clutch so must have a 164 tooth ring gear. I wasn't sure of the offset. With the top loader it should be a 3/8" I assume.
  9. I have a 4 speed top loader. I will check out gear reduction starter Thanks
  10. will check grounds, just put in a new solenoid. Do like to keep the original starter if possible. Thanks
  11. Wanted some input on starters. 69 Mach with 351W, long tube headers having hard starting when hot. I have a stock starter now and was wondering about changing to a mini. I looked at the PA Performance 1881 starter at CJ Pony. Has anyone gone this route and what are your thoughts on this? Thanks
  12. Will check the ground, I actually was thinking that could be an issue. Thanks
  13. yes, new ignition switch last fall and have the same trouble. This points to solenoid since I can hit it with screwdriver handle and it cuts through and starts.
  14. Thanks, I will try for original Motorcraft.
  15. Now getting ready to change my 3d solenoid. Any ideas on better made solenoids. My last 2 were bought at CJ Pony but don't last. When I turn the key there is nothing. If I hit on the solenoid with a screwdriver handle it will cut the current through and start. The relay or plunger in the solenoid must stick. The battery is fully charged so it isn't a battery issue. I assume it is the quality of the solenoids. My Mach 1 is a weekend driver and local car shows so I don't need a concourse looking solenoid. 1969 Mach with 351W. Thanks
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