Jump to content

Kris

Members
  • Content Count

    637
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

Kris last won the day on May 20

Kris had the most liked content!

About Kris

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 11/01/1980

Converted

  • Location
    Oklahoma
  • Occupation
    Industrial Maint.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I built some of of uhmw plastic. I found 2 holes saws that were the correct size and built them. One for the base and one for the side that goes in the track. I drilled part way from both directions the correct depth of the original. Then I counter suck a hole in it to and put a stainless 1/4” bolt in with a lock nut. It looks large in the picture but is the same outer diameter as the factory, just round. It travels good in the track with no issues that I’ve noticed.
  2. Yes the windlace that is on the quarter post is different.
  3. I used tape and masked off around both sides of where the chrome ring was. Then I used some of the testers model car chrome / silver paint and repainted the ring with a small fine tip brush. I actually like the look more than the chrome. I did my radio bezel the exact same.
  4. Midlife does it matter on the alternator light if you switched to a one wire alternator since the harness is no longer connected to it?
  5. I had to replace the turn signal flasher and the emergency flasher to get mine working properly. I believe I also had to reverse polarity on both. Don’t waste your money on the stupid adapter just use a small pick or screwdriver and remove the wires from the plug and swap their locations. I also had a led flasher I purchased that was supposed to be the correct one from CJ’s but didn’t have a ground and it wouldn’t work. I purchased 2 of these from Amazon and they worked great. https://www.amazon.com/CEC-Industries-EF32RL-Flasher/dp/B00JXLH7CG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=CEC+Industries+EF32RL+Flasher&qid=1621458181&sr=8-3
  6. Been a while since I posted in progress. I’ve got the interior in minus the door panels and the rear inner quarters. This weekend I installed a full stainless steel exhaust system from block to exhaust tip. I also got the last of the engine bay all wrapped up and kicked the engine over a few time to double check clearance on everything. I’ll should be starting it for the first time next weekend. I still need to steam the seats to get the last few wrinkles out but I think they look good overall.
  7. There a bolt under the dash inn the center of the fuse box. Loosed the bolt and it will separate the two halves. There are clips on the sides of the engine bay harness under the dash that you lightly pull and it will come out of the firewall.
  8. Yep we made a deal. Just waiting for them in the mail.
  9. That’s what I’m needing. Sent you a message.
  10. This is the piece I’m talking about. The plate that attaches to the window is broken at the top left and the piece that rides the rail someone drilled it out so you can’t thread the bolts into it.
  11. I’m in need of a driver side front window channel bracket for a 1969 with glue in glass. This is the short bracket part number c9zb-6521469-a. Mine is broken at the bottom of the channel and is bent outward pretty bad. I would be interested in both drivers side pieces the long and the short one if I can find them with the original epoxy still in place.
  12. I was able to get them all fixed. Took my dremel with a tiny wire brush and it cleaned up most of it. Then took the thread file to clean up the top few threads on a few that the nut wouldn’t start. Ran a new nut down on them back and forth with very little pressure and they all clean up. Thanks for the help.
  13. So I had my rear convertible top trim rechromed and some of the studs now have chrome on them and the nuts won’t go on now. I can’t run a die on them as the ones I have are to large and hit the lip of there trim. I tried a thread file but I still can’t get to part of the stud because of the little notches that stick up to hold the foam seals around the studs. Do any of you guys have any advise as to how to fix this? I thought about taping everything up crazy good and trying to blast just the studs in my media blaster but I don’t want to take a chance of messing up the fresh chrome.
  14. Yes the 70 tie rods are larger at the tapered part that goes into the spindle. They do make tapered sleeves you can put on 69 tie rods to use them. I think mustang Steve sells them.
  15. Capemustang I purchased the reproduction firewall insulation pad. It has a pad material on one side and a thick rubber backing on the other. I can’t remember where I got it from as it was a few years ago when I was gathering parts. I looked and CJ’s has one for $58 that looks like what I have. It’s precut so you just pop out the holes you need for stuff going through the firewall. The only problem I had was I was missing a couple of the holes where the push in plugs go. Also the push in plugs that hold it in place are very hard to get in. I ended up having to lightly lube the rubber so it would slide through.
×
×
  • Create New...