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Everything posted by Flanders

  1. I can't say I'm hard on my tires at all, and don't really put a lot of km's on them. I'd say they are great for my needs, but I'm probably not the best for an opinion on how good of a tire they are.
  2. I've got 17x8's in the front, 17x9.5's in the rear, haven't had any rubbing (1" Scott Drake lowering springs in front) http://vintagewheelsus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_51&products_id=526 Tires are NT555 Gen 2 245/45/17 front 275/40/17 rears
  3. i also have the aeromotive tank -- I ran both lines (went with stainless braided to be fancy) along the passenger side of the car. Not quite stock looking :) but protected and very functional. I routed it 'through' a hole in the front subframe (wrapped it with some extra hose) before it goes up the side of my transmission tunnel to the back of the engine where it's connected to my fuel rail. I can take more pics if you need, the back of the car is all covered up and pushed up against the wall so harder to get at.
  4. couldn't have gone too far, the collar on the end of the cable would have prevented it from going through the firewall (in theory, anyway)
  5. I've got this one from Aeromotive. Although, if I remember right, the box said Tanks Inc on it! https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/69-70-mustang-stealth-fuel-tank/ 22 Gallon, fit nicely in my '69. The only catch is that you'll need a filler neck from a '70 as this tank is 'taller' than the original '69 one, so don't forget to order that too! Re-ran braided lines up to the engine compartment, which are on top of the tank. I had to put a little hole into the side of my trunk (where gas tank sits in) for this. I then made a flat floor for the trunk with 1/4" wood. So far, so good!
  6. Would a chocostang re-build be worthwhile to make sure my steering box has minimal slop? The thought of rack and pinion is also bouncing around in my head :D since I'm removing stuff anyway...
  7. Thanks folks for great advice. I'll attempt this re-alignment (and then re-alignment of my steering wheel) soon. Need to save a project for when the snow hits :) Hopefully things will line up with the splines and pitman arm when I get it all centered!
  8. A few years ago, the shop that did my alignment didn't bother to 'center' the pitman arm on the steering box. I'm pretty positive this is why the car has a much wider turning radius when I turn left, and could explain some of the looseness I feel in the steering when I'm going 'straight'. My alignment specs were bang-on what I asked for, however my 2-year old tires with very low km's are going bald on the outside shoulder. I believe this is both an alignment *and* a centering problem with the pitman arm -- I found that even when I was turning at slow speeds I could hear the tires squealing a bit! Would my analysis above make sense? Before I dive into correcting this myself, is centering the pitman arm just a matter of counting the revolutions of the steering wheel to find the 'center' point, making sure wheels are pointing straight, and then connecting the pitman arm back to the steering box? Also, I've personally never disconnected the pitman arm from the steering box. Is this a simple job, or is it a splined and tapered shaft that on the steering box that is going to require some strong words to help disconnect? (Power steering '69, if it makes a difference)
  9. I'll burp the system again, good idea bout keeping it loose and letting coolant (and hopefully air) escape. I've gone through two temp senders and burped the system a few times, so maybe there's just a stubborn air pocket in there, due to the nature of the intake design (??). I can change the temp setting in the EFI to 140, but I'd prefer not too. This is me being stubborn I guess, but if my temp needle is right in the middle, I want the ECU matching. This isn't a recent rebuild, aside from intake manifold, so I was hoping to get to the bottom of this. I could swap the Holly sender with the factory one too, but then my dash needle would always read 'cool' which would drive me bonkers!
  10. I'm a bit stumped. I've got an OEM-style temp sender at the front of my intake manifold, and a new Holley temp-sender at the back of my intake manifold (Jim Inglese 8-stack EFI system). 180F thermostat. After 20 minutes of driving around, using my infrared thermometer I can see the outlet of my water pump is 180F and my dashboard factory temp gauge is right in the middle. However, the infrared thermometer on the back of the engine reads around 140F, which matches the Holley ECU readings. I've replaced the Holley coolant sender, but this didn't change the results (I wasn't really expecting it to, as it matched the infrared thermometer reading). Coolant blooped out of the sender hole so I don't believe there is an air bubble in there either. 40F seems like a large temperature differential between the front and back of engine! Any thoughts? I could burp the system again but not sure what else could be going on. Since the ECU only thinks my engine is at 140F, it's always doing cold-start adjustments and never thinks the engine is warm.
  11. Are you using stock engine mounts? I'm not sure how close your fittment is, but moving your engine over 1/4-1/2" might help. I got Ron Morris motor mounts to get clearance for my headers (not with Borgeson box though)
  12. Thanks for the feedback. The belt size is definitely correct, I've been measuring and adjusting and have a nice collection of belts :) to make sure of this. The angle could be a touch better, but maybe a degree. I've also read about running a double v-belt pulley on the alternator (it's 95A), but I'm just not quite sure how to go about this. I'm definitely nowhere near the 95A load, and I have good wraparound on the alt pulley. As suggested, one big honkin' PS belt that covers both alt and PS might do it, but this may cause other issues. Easy enough to check, I suppose -- just gotta buy one more belt and a pulley. The bearing seems quiet -- good idea about disconnecting the wires to the alternator (just need to unclip the harness), that's an easy test for the bearings + load. Half my brain says to go serpentine, but I do like the look of the 'classic' v-belt and fan on the front of the engine. What have others on here done when upgrading alternators?
  13. My PA Performance alternator has stopped working again. The pulley is getting super hot! I measure the temp with my pyrometer about 30 seconds after the car is running, when I stop the engine. The alternator case +engine is around 70F but the alternator pulley is 240F! I've tried both PA Performance billet and my OEM pulley, with a new v-belt on fairly tight (barely 1/2" play). I've also had the battery on a trickle charger overnight (a few days, actually) just in case it was dead, but didn't seem to make a difference. I have not tried a new battery yet. The belt doesn't feel very hot either. Prior to testing, battery voltage reads solid 12.8V. When the car is running, voltage drops to 12.3V. When the engine is off again, voltage goes back up to 12.8. The case of the alternator, along with the internal windiings, seem to stay nice and cool (according to pyrometer) so I don't think the alternator itself is overheating. It seems to only be the pulley (and the nut keeping pulley attached to alternator) When the engine starts up, there's belt squeal for a second or two before it's quiet (might even be power steering belt, as it's definitely a bit on the loose side). PA Performance is convinced the belt is slipping, causing the excessive heat. Any thoughts from the years of wisdom here? I'm at a loss. The alternator is aligned pretty good, perhaps maybe a degree? off center, but I wouldn't think this would cause the pulley to overheat so quickly. Not sure I can crank the v-belt much tighter. Help! video-1598925527.mp4
  14. sweet. Thanks for the tips. I scored another JBA manifold gasket locally for free, so will try it first assuming perhaps it was an installation issue (?). If it fails, I really like that soft aluminum one! I've got a windsor, so your summit link is perfect. Locking stage 8 bolts too, just in case.
  15. So I blew through my header gasket during the shake-down run. Doh! This gasket came with my JBA shorties. The cyl#1 blew out the bottom, which surely can't help with my EFI learning/tuning! Any recommendations on bolts and a new gasket? And what is the torque on header bolts? I had them all around 25 ft-lbs, so not sure what's going on. Stage8 makes some nice lookin' bolts. But is there a slightly thicker gasket that might work a bit better?
  16. Figured I'd wrap this up -- the PA Performance guys have great support, doing through various voltage measurements at various spots to debug it down to a faulty internal voltage regulator in the alternator. This is an easily serviceable part (small part that screws into back of alternator) and the new one has solved all my issues. Thanks Mach1Driver for the feedback as well, you were spot-on in your analysis :) I saw it at 13.8V on the battery after I started up the engine and ~14.4V after a little test drive.
  17. yeah, the plot thickens -- when I disconnect the plug on the back of the alternator and measure the voltage at the green/red prong, I get 11.9V (battery is 12.4). So this should be enough field voltage to get the alternator working. If I was to wager a guess, my alternator is pooched somehow.
  18. I just unplugged the connector at the voltage regulator, and started up the car. When measuring the voltage at the connector (not at the regulator): Battery+ post: 12.31V F: 0.02V (not quite zero) S: 12.11V A: 12.25V When car is off, and the key is in the accessory position (note I had the charger on the battery for 20 minutes, so it brought the voltage up a touch): Battery+ post: 13.11V F: 0 S: 12.9V A: 13.11V I'm only seeing 8.6V on the Field output of regulator, but I should be seeing 0.5V-1V less than battery+ post (12V+). PA has given me a few more measurements/suggestions. The voltage on the S + A of the voltage regulator plug seem to be ok.
  19. Thanks a lot for the info -- I appreciate the detail! I will go through my wiring again, but some voltage measurements: The F on the voltage regulator, connected to the alternator green/red wire is at 8.6V when the car is running. The S on the voltage regulator is a solid 12.5V (fyi, no pink wire, long ago removed) the output of the Alternator (if I measure the voltage at the battery posts) is around 12.4-12.8V. Seems to move around a bit, but it's not enough to charge my battery. I have no electric fans, or A/C, or stereo. Is the Field voltage from the voltage regulator high enough? It seems like 8.6V is a bit low. I'll check my wiring again, but PA performance has agreed that 8.6V isn't enough to turn on the alternator. I must say, I'm impressed with PA Performance's support line so far...very responsive! edit: quick update: I did not connect 38BK to b+ (your step 13, above), as per your note #1. I've got a fuseable link for note #2 coming, but I didn't think this would effect anything, would it? (electrically, is it needed with the big 4GA wire connecting starter solenoid post to B+ on alternator?)
  20. I've got more digging to do. Got this from PA Performance (nice quick support!). My car never had the 3-pin connector to the alternator, so something else may be at play here. I need to see what voltage I've got out of the F pin of their voltage regulator, but I believe the instructions below match your pg1 diagram (step 12 is the orange wire). 462802C Kit - Express Instructions This instruction sheet is a supplement to the main installation instructions provided in the kit, and not meant to replace or contradict the more detailed steps. Some more experienced installers prefer a simple guide. Disconnect Negative battery cable on car battery and move to the side. Mark wires on existing alternator as ST, FLD, B+ and Ground (if there is a ground) Disconnect fender mounted external regulator plug Remove fender mounted external regulator box Install new PA Performance fender mounted external regulator box Reconnect plug Replace alternator per alternator instructions Connect the 3-Pin alternator plug provided in the kit to alternator Connect Yellow wire to B+ Post Connect White/Black wire to Stator tap on alternator. Tape the original ST wire as it is not used but may have power Connect FLD wire to new Green/Red wire in kit Connect B+ wire to alternator Connect Ground (if there is one) Connect Negative battery terminal to battery. You will have power at the green/red wire with the ignition key in the run position, no power on this wire with the ignition key off
  21. Reviving this, now that I've been able to start my car! My PA Performance alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery. I've connected it as per your pg1 instructions, however I'm wondering about the F from the PA Performance regulator that goes to the orange wire, then goes to the red/green wire on the Alternator. If the PA Performance alternator is internally regulated (which I believe they are, according to their website), then what is the "F" output of the regulator doing in your diagram (pg1)? It's ultimately going to the green/red of the alternator but I'm not sure what the voltage is on it. The PA Performance instructions say to wire the green/red wire on their alternator to a 12V ignition voltage (ie. like the green/red wire that goes to the S pin of the original alternator) so I believe that's why my alternator currently isn't charging the battery. Thoughts? If their regulator is a dummy one, then the F output isn't doing much (I've pinged them to get more information, but figured you've already been talking to them)
  22. ended up with the black stainless steel Lokar cable for the Borla 8-stack injection system. Basically identical throttle parts as Inglese. I'm not convinced yet that the S-bend in my cable is going to give me perfectly smooth operation once I'm driving, but for now it works. The clip for the gas pedal worked after about 20 seconds with the dremel -- didn't need to take much off to make it fit. A few pics for reference.
  23. I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key. Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU. I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on. It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next... hopefully link works: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9
  24. Just to wrap up this thread -- I bent the flange at the top of my '70 filler neck, just a little bit, with the help of my vise and got things to line up quite nicely. Any funky-ness in the flange (it's admittedly not 100% flat now) didn't cause any other issues. It still bolted tightly against the gasket, and the gas cap covers it up anyway. So, for anyone putting this tank in your '69 mustang, make sure to get a '70 filler neck.
  25. ooo I like that AN fitting. that's a good idea. I ordered a few brass fittings from amazon (exactly what 1969FstBack posted) but may not be pleased with how they look. Thanks!
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