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stangs-R-me

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  1. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Vicfreg in 69 SuperCoupe   
    Wow. Prayers for a complete and rapid recovery!!  
  2. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Caseyrhe in U joint cap clips, help needed   
    Success!!
    Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
     






  3. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    Guess I should post an UPDATE since I've been driving it since the end of April !!
    As I stated in my Jan 5th post, I pressure tested my custom fuel inlet line in a bucket of water with compressed air and had no leaks.   Well, I ended up having a fuel leak between my custom tube and the brass primary fuel bowl inlet fitting.   Tightening it did not help, so I removed the tube assy. and put on temporary hose barbs / tee and cobbled it together with hose & clamps.   My flare on the tube was good at the leak point, however the cone in the brass adapter was distorted / damaged so I ordered a 2-pc set of them from Summit (surprised it actually sealed up to the temporary brass hose barb adapter).   There was the Summit brand, Holley, & Demon to chose from and I went with the Demon 142117 2-pc. set as it came with the washers & screens and was the best value (all 3 are likely made by the same mfr.).   Replaced it and reinstalled my tube assembly and the leak was gone.
    I had read that you really should use a 4-hole carb spacer on a dual plane intake so I also ordered up a Canton 85-154 4-hole 1/4" thick phenolic spacer and a MR G # 55 4-hole gasket for between the carb & spacer to replace the thick open center gasket supplied with the Summit carb.   Since my Offy 360 dual plane is not a 4-hole style, I used an open center gasket between the spacer & intake.   With my custom Ram-Air set up, I can't have any thicker spacer than this.
    I had also ordered up the MR G # 97 1/4" thick heat dissipator set (2 aluminum plates & 3 # 55 gaskets) and tried this first but it did not dissipate the heat enough in that I could hear fuel gurgling when I shut the engine off when hot.   Funny, the Holley never did this and all I used under it for 30+ years was a single MR G # 55 gasket !!
    The electric choke hooked up to the alternator stator terminal (instead of 12V as stated in the Summit instructions) also seems to be acceptable as the choke fully opens like it should and when it should. 
    I also installed a Holley 20-59 Quick Change Cover Kit on the Vac-Secondary spring chamber.   The secondaries did not seem to be opening, so I swapped out the stock 0.033" wire spring for a 0.029" and they now seem to be opening at the right time.
    I also followed the instructions from this video prior to installation:
     
    I did need to turn the curb idle speed screw in a bit to get it to idle at 700-750 RPM and the sweet spot on the idle mixture screws is at 2 full turns out.   
    My vacuum is a little low at idle (only 11-12"), and I'm tempted to swap the Holley back on to see where it was at before. 
    It starts & idles nicely and runs & drives great, so I'm not too concerned at the moment.
    Doug
              
                 
  4. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to paulb in Paul's 69 Mach1   
    Bit of an update, side windows in, central locking in, head unit in, almost finished wiring.







  5. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to MorganLeBlanc in Morgans 69 Mustang   
    Still sorting out my Mach1 but finally took a few test drives after working on it for well over a year.



  6. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to RobotMan in My Son Mike's 69 Mach 1 Restoration   
    Took a picture today of both son’s cars against the Blue Ridge Mountain backdrop in our back yard. Thought they turned out well!



  7. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Midlife in Kudos To Randy At MidLife   
    You're more than welcome.  It is often that another set of eyes/mindset can troubleshoot things better than the one experiencing the problem. 
    The main reason why I am on this and other forums, as well as my wiring refurbishment business, is that I really enjoy trouble-shooting from a distance.  Having a detached perspective (e.g. a dirty mind laying in the gutter) and helping people out gives me great satisfaction out of life.  That, and a good brand of whiskey...
  8. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to TexasEd in New headers on the way   
    Fitment was great.  I had to pass the drivers side up from under the car because of the brake booster being in the way and you have to tighten spark plugs 7&8 with a wrench attached to the spark plug socket but other than that it was easy.
     


     
  9. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to 1969vert in my 1969 project   
    I know its not the same car ( in this project report forum ) but.. I own it also..
    down to only 4 mustangs.. Sold my wife's 2012
    A little E-85 test last Friday night at HRP

    video-1616810442.mp4
  10. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to rmarks in Which paint colour - help me decide   
    Acapulco blue with blackout hood treatment.
  11. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from TexasEd in New '68-69 Rolled Lip Exhaust Tips with 2.5" Inlet   
    Bought a pair of these custom 2-1/2" Inlet Tips a few months ago from CJP and was just blown away with how they opened them up inside for maximum flow.
    Twin tips are externally the same, rolled edge is a little tighter though giving a bit more opening: Stock approx. 1.50" x 2.14" vs. 1.65" x 2.33" oval area each tip.
    My exhaust is stock late 80's repro (transverse muffler) but the larger 2-1/4" 428 version instead of the 2" that should be behind a 351W.   In order to fit the stock tips on the tails that came in this exhaust system I had to shorten them a bit as well as reduce the end dia. to slip into the tiny 1-3/4" inlets on the stock tips … in hindsight, I'm guessing tails were for GT500.   This always bugged me but assumed at the time that the tips were the same for all engines so this is how it would have been on a Big Block.     
    Come to find out more recently that 428 Mach 1's & GT's with this 2-1/4" exhaust came with special tails with less restrictive tips welded on the tails instead of the separate tips used on 390 & 351's.   These unique tails are now being reproduced by Scott Fuller … but for the concourse crowd … so not cheap.
    So, since I had already cut & re-welded my tails to fit the stock tips way back when, I just ordered (2) 2-1/4" ID x 2-1/2" OD x 6" long aluminized 16Ga. adapters.   I'll cut forward of my current welds and slip these adapters on, adjust to desired length, then weld these new adapters on.   Stock tails are 16Ga. aluminized steel too, so I was happy to find these adapters made out of the same gauge tube.
    Scott Drake makes similar tips for 2-1/4" tails that sell for quite a bit less than these 2-1/2" versions, but from the inlets back look to be similarly restrictive as the stock ones so not worth the cost & effort for minimal improvement.
    Both tails slipped out of the muffler without any issues, so I'm just waiting for the adapters & 2.5" clamps to arrive from Summit next week.
    Doug     



  12. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from TexasEd in New '68-69 Rolled Lip Exhaust Tips with 2.5" Inlet   
    Got the parts earlier this week and finished up the project today … turned out really nice with no clearance issues anywhere.
    Was thinking the rolled lips were going to still be the smallest restriction, but with a little math I found this is NOT TRUE … the 2-1/4" exhaust system tubing I.D. is actually less area than the twin tips.
    2-1/4" 0.065" Wall Tubing = 3.528 sq-in area each
    Twin Tips are 1.895" I.D. = 2.82 sq-in area each x 2 = 5.64
    Rolled Slant Cut Oval = 3.019 sq-in area each x 2 =6.038
    The 1-3/4" O.D. crimped down tail ends I had before with the OE style tips = 1.986 sq-in area
    vs. the 3.528 sq-in of 2-1/4" tubing is a 77.6% increase in area which is a huge improvement.
    Using these tips on a 2-1/2" System would not be a restriction either as this with 0.065" Wall tubing would be 4.41 sq-in area which is also smaller than the twin tips.
     




  13. Thanks
    stangs-R-me reacted to RPM in Brothers 69 Mach   
    Outstanding work, story, and love for your brother. With everything going on in your life Casey, we've got the Man of the year winner right here.
  14. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to 69ShelbyGT350H in 1969 Shelby GT350H Build   
    Its been a while, and COVID has slowed things down a little, but I keep taking her out. The 2020 Ponies in the Smokies event was canceled, as was Mustang Week, but there were still about 1000 of us that ended up at Myrtle Beach. I even had a little fun at Darlington Dragway. And yes, there is a new (07 GT500) Snake in the Pit.











    Darlington Burnout 1a.mp4
  15. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from JayEstes in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    Grande' badge is the switch ... nice & clever !!
     
    Doug
  16. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    Final pics with air cleaner installed ... now I just need to wait for Spring (or unseasonably warm weekend between now and then) to start it up and see how it runs.
    I do have the Electric Choke hooked up to the alternator Stator terminal, just as I did with the Holley.   Summit states 12V is mandatory (as I believe the Holley Choke Kit literature stated as well), but the choke on the Holley worked just fine on stator voltage.   I then removed both choke caps to compare and they appear to be IDENTICAL including the thickness & width of the flat choke coil spring.
    Doug
      




  17. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from Kilizyrag in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs.   Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar.
    I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake.   I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs.
    FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb.   
    In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A).   The  '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb.
    Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit.
    The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
    MODDING the BRACKET:
    I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight.   Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand.   Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru.   A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw.   
    I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed.   A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture.   
    Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint.
    Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic.
    I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts.     
    Doug
     
        







  18. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs.   Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar.
    I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake.   I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs.
    FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb.   
    In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A).   The  '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb.
    Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit.
    The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
    MODDING the BRACKET:
    I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight.   Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand.   Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru.   A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw.   
    I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed.   A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture.   
    Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint.
    Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic.
    I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts.     
    Doug
     
        







  19. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from Shep69 in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs.   Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar.
    I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake.   I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs.
    FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb.   
    In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A).   The  '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb.
    Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit.
    The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
    MODDING the BRACKET:
    I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight.   Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand.   Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru.   A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw.   
    I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed.   A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture.   
    Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint.
    Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic.
    I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts.     
    Doug
     
        







  20. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to mustangstofear in Craig from New Zealand   
    National Mustang Convention in New Zealand won best in show, best in class and entrance choice.
    Another show with 100k spectators won Top 20 for Fords. Craig has done very well at all the shows. 
  21. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ...   
    In the 1st pic, the area between the two black marks is where there is interference. 
    As you can see in the 2nd pic, the B302 bracket drop is only 1/4" and about 11/16" of drop is needed to clear the bottom of the Summit carb.
    The drop section of the bracket is 0.83" wide and made out of 0.10" thick steel.   I found an old galvanized switch plate that is 0.068" thick and will add about 1/2" of drop ... also verified that this added drop will not hit the intake, lots of room there.    
    I'll cut a 0.83" wide section out of this switch plate and weld to the bottom of the B302 bracket using an old carb base as a fixture.   After welding, I'll cut the center section out of the B302 bracket and add more weld to the top / cut ends.   Then touch up the bare steel edges of the drop extension & welds with cold galvanize paint.   As this is under the back of the carb, the mod will be out of view and it will still look like a stock / un-modded Ford bracket when installed.
    Doug
     
     
     




  22. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from RPM in 1969 tach dash available   
    And to think I bought my Tach Dash at the 1987 IOLA Swap Meet in very nice original shape WITH a good and complete dash harness for $85.00. 
    Went back and bought a second one from the same vendor for my brother a year or two later ... don't remember what I paid for that one but doubt it was a whole lot more than paid for the 1st one !!
    Sometimes makes me wonder if my car is worth more in parts or whole.
    Doug 
  23. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Caseyrhe in A/C Lower Dash Vent Ball Rebuild   
    Front, without touching rivets. Control ball has to be turned as if to stop flow
  24. Sad
    stangs-R-me reacted to Caseyrhe in Brothers 69 Mach   
    Got his car back out to my house 2 weeks ago was able to spend an hour on it today. 
    Found the problem, exhaust lifters 5, 7, and 8



  25. Haha
    stangs-R-me reacted to Midlife in Steering Box to Exhaust Manifold Clearance Issue   
    You can always consider switching engines to an inliner 6 cylinder...
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