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stangs-R-me

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Everything posted by stangs-R-me

  1. 225/60-15 = 5.31" Section Height & 25.63" Dia. (stock '69 Shelby) 235/45-17 = 4.16" Section Height & 25.33" Dia 245/45-17 = 4.34" Section Height & 25.68" Dia. 255/45-17 = 4.52" Section Height & 26.04" Dia. 265/40 or 265/45 do not exist on Tire Rack so likely do not exist at all 275/50-15 = 5.41" Section Height & 25.83" Dia. (your existing rears) 275/40-17 = 4.33" Section Height & 25.66" Dia. but needs a 9-11" Wide rim so not an option for use with the 17x8" GT9. However if you can find a 9" rim with the right offset, I'd guess it would fit as it is slightly shorter than your 15's that you say DO fit. As far as the front's, CJPP offers the 245/45-17's as an option, so they must have experience with these fitting something ... most likely a '69-70. Doug
  2. Interesting in that the aftermarket Hurst shifter lays back on an angle and the OE 1970 Ford-Hurst version is basically upright … never noticed this difference before. Doug
  3. That is looking nice. As far as the ignition switch, mine switch lights up with the marker lights so you can find the key hole. I've seen some harnesses without it, but the two A/C harnesses I've messed with (Tach & Non-Tach) both had it. Non-tach harness was base model with A/C and Tach harness came out of a Mach 1 with A/C. So I don't know if it is an A/C only thing or if all deluxe without A/C also had it. Doug
  4. Good to hear. How close are you to getting your car on the road ?? From your build thread and other posts it sound like you are getting close !! I finally got my car out of storage this past weekend ... now I just got to burn the full tank of fuel in it so I can officially try the MOD out myself. Weather for next weekend by me does not look too promising at the moment though ... Thursday-Saturday Rain / Storms !! Doug
  5. That's how I envisioned doing it too and also wondered whether holes should be drilled first. I'll have to bring a neck to my buddy that does a lot of TIG welding to see how he would do it. To avoid re-plating or painting I was thinking a 1-2" wide band of heat shrink tubing around the area may be a way to pretty it back up and protect the bare steel where the plating or paint burned away. Doug
  6. Optical Illusion I suspect ... sent the SD one back to Summit yesterday so can't re-look at them side by side again. If they were that much different as they appear in the pic I think I would have noticed when I was comparing the two. Other one will be going back once I get the OK from the e-bay seller. Good to hear and thanks for posting. Actual welding is really the ideal method, but not everyone has the equipment or skill set to do it. I've got MIG Welders at both home & work (110V import at home 3-phase Miller at work), but my self taught welding skills are more functional than pretty. I'd think a skilled TIG welder could do a very clean and neat job. Can you share some pics of how you welded it in place to share with everyone ?? Thanks, Doug I think the JB Weld method is more than adequate though if done properly. Key is to clean both the insert and the neck with Lacquer Thinner or Acetone prior to inserting and having it tipped in the neck towards the bottom so you get a nice horseshoe shaped WEDGE of epoxy around the top. On the more recent ones I've been sticking a loop of wire up the neck between the insert and top wall along side my retaining stick to make sure it is tipped this way before adding the stakes behind the insert. Once secured in place I yank the wire out, then keep driving the retaining indents in deeper until there is no insert movement. Once satisfied with the retainment, I then test neck for leaks (screw-on cap or duct tape over opening then fill with water), blow out with compressed air / allow to thoroughly air dry, then add the JB Weld.
  7. Bought another 1970 Dynacorn / Corvex T01D neck off of ebay this week because it really looked to be galvanized / plated in picture. Being e-bay, I even asked the seller before buying to be sure and they came back saying YES it is GALVANIZED ... not painted. Received it yesterday and no it is NOT galvanized or plated it is indeed PAINTED. It drop-shipped right from Dynacorn in Leetsdale, PA. and has a date code of 2017 (vs. the 2009 date code on the Scott Drake Corvex I received last week). Much better PAINTED finish than the old stock SD one that looks "brush-painted". This newer neck is on par with all the other painted necks in quality and finish / possibly powder coated. Other than being painted, other issue with these Corvex necks is an "as-crimped insert" does not want to slip right up into place so they would require extra work to do so (unlike the painted CJP FFP4 that insert goes past bend without any issue and costs less). So it looks like there really is no "PLATED 1970 NECK" available from anyone. Only possibility would be if the current Scott Drake neck is from the same supplier as the other SD Plated necks I've seen / bought, but that would require further research. comparison pic of the two T01D Necks; SD / Corvex 2009 dated ... vs ... Dii / Corvex 2017 dated:
  8. Sounds like fun ... welcome to the states and Happy B-Day !! Doug
  9. THIS ... I added a Holley Electric Choke Kit to my 4150 carb back in 2012. Ran the power wire to the STATOR terminal on the alternator and it works just fine. My 1985 5.0L Mustang with factory Holley 4180 carb had the choke hooked up to the STATOR terminal too. Why not try the SIMPLEST SOLUTION before reinventing the wheel ?? You are not going to damage the choke or the alternator giving it a shot ... a few feet of wire, some terminals, electrical tape wrap and maybe an hour of time and you can duplicate what I did. Could probably rig something up temporarily to test it out in less than 10 minutes. Not the best pic, but you can see my custom wrapped harness with black & red wires (ground & stator) attached to the back of the alternator. It then snakes up over the intake and back to the choke. Doug
  10. I put mine on the bottom as this was the only way I could get it to simply fit without any modification to the car. Looks fine and likely adds some rigidity but not as much as it would were it welded in place with the flange at the firewall.
  11. I ordered 1 each of the '65-66 & '67-68 22 Gallon Tank conversion necks from CJP yesterday and should have next Thursday. Hopefully they are both PLATED (as shown in the CJP video) and the insert goes up and past the bend without extra effort. Doug
  12. Part of this GT500 recall / modification is that you need to change of the "vented" type gas cap for a "non-vented" one. GT500's had the "vent-dent" in the neck just like all other '69-70 Mustangs (instructions even state to flatten the dent out), so theoretically it should have already came with a non-vented cap. With the "vent-dent" in the neck, the O.E.M. standard '69-70 Screw-On Mustang gas caps were all non-vented as are the repro's. Mach 1 & GT POP-OPEN caps were all non-vented as would be the repro versions if you install the now "show-car only" plunger assembly instead of using the screw on cap they also supply with the kit. I have a Scott Drake repro GT pop-open on my car and I assumed the screw-on cap supplied was non-vented, but it is NOT so the search was on for a non-vented version. I would assume '67-70 Cougars had the vent dent neck too, so I went on WCCC site and found pics of used necks ... '67-68 does not appear to have the vent dent, but the 1969 and 1970 ones did. So you would think there would be vented caps for '67-68 & non-vented for '69-70, but instead WCCC (and Stant) just list the same vented / anti-surge one for all '67-70. Which I suppose vent dent or not a vented cap will work ... just don't try and use a non-vented cap without a vent dent filler neck. Searching e-bay and Stant's site, I was not having much luck finding a non-vented cap that would fit. The common "non-vented" one that does have some Ford applications including 1970 Cougar with CA Emissions (Stant 10632) is a smaller diameter, so it will not work. The '71-73 Cougar cap (Stant 10810, actually for '71-82 Cougar as well as other Fords) is considered an "emissions cap" and has some sort of valve in it. This cap fits, and the "valve" allows air in but not out (makes sense as these cars have a charcoal canister to trap fumes), so it is suitable for this non-vented application since the vent tube will do all the breathing. The cap that came with my Scott Drake repro pop-open is on the left. As you can see, it is different than the Stant vented cap so obviously made by a different mfr. Also has no stamping on front stating it is "vented" like the Stant cap even though it has a similar spring loaded valve in the center that definitely vents.
  13. Now that I've got samples of all years in hand, I went and borrowed the new pump nozzle again from the gas station to test insert location on all these other necks. Also was able to try the nozzle with the neck installed on my car ... something I could not do last time as I only had the nozzle for a few hours. When I last had the nozzle I was test fitting with it parallel with the bend in the neck ... but with a POP-OPEN style CAP, nozzle needs to be off to one side or the other. Something I certainly never thought of until now, but thankfully the insert location allows this. Also tested nozzle in the 65-66 & 67-68 necks offset like this and it should not be an issue on these with pop-open caps either.
  14. Got the '67-68 and 1970 Scott Drake necks in an the '67-68 is PLATED and made by the same company as the 65-66 & 1969 PLATED necks however disappointingly the 1970 is PAINTED even though the SD site states it is plated ... http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/D0ZZ-9034-A.aspx?wid=141 This 1970 neck is the first one I've seen made by CORVEX ... paint job almost looks brushed on. This was the most $$ spent on a neck so far and also the shoddiest workmanship. It is also more oval shaped in the bend so insert was going to require some extra massaging to get past the bend like the 67-68 Goodmark painted neck. Painted one I bought from CJP a while back was cheaper, insert slipped past bend, and was far nicer / on par with the other painted necks. A premium price for the Scott Drake name and this piece of junk will be sent back. Did a little more digging on CORVEX and this series of filler neck P/N's (T01A,B,C,D) are associated with DII ... aka Dynacorn. The PLATED '67-68 neck is a nice piece and also has no issue with getting insert up and around bend (unlike the Goodmark painted version).
  15. My DD is a 2016 base model Ecoboost with 6-speed manual, got 37k miles on it already and is one of the best daily driver's I've ever had. That being a Premium GT and a ragtop to boot, all that much better ... you are going to love that car !! I agree it would be better with a manual, but I could live with an A/T if it were the only option too. Doug
  16. Worst storm / most snow of the '17-18 season came to our city in North-East Wisconsin on Sunday ... 12" was what the neighbor measured. North and West of us got even more. Four of us were planning on going down to Madison on Sunday for a concert, meeting up with two others coming up from Dubuque, IA. This included 3 non-cancelable $130 rooms for Sunday night. The Dubuque couple ended up finding 4 others to go with them so not a total waste and they all had a great time. Band we were going to see was Houndsmouth and none of the 6 from Dubuque had ever heard of them but were all fans come the end of the night ... guess they put on a great show. Just don't expect weather this time of year to screw up plans like this in the mid-west. April snow fall to date broke an early 1900's record in Green Bay, WI. I've got my driver's seat out giving it a complete overhaul, so in a way I'm happy weather is another reason keeping it in the garage. Late 80's vintage replacement Mach 1 upholstery (real Comfortweave) is in near perfect shape, but original foam & burlap has been crumbling for many years. Ordered up foam, spring sets, burlap, felt to replace jute edging, etc. ... still waiting on CJP to ship the seat back spring sets though; they are running over a week late from Dynacorn. Doug
  17. Got inserts staked and JB Welded in the painted '65-66 and '67-68 necks over the weekend and I'm happy to report that the "4 inch syringe extension" worked great with the JB Weld. Also brought an insert with me to work this morning to see if it could be crimped down further to fit up the Scott Drake Plated '65-66 neck that uses 2-1/8" O.D. tubing instead of 2-1/4". Crimped it down as far as the die set I used before would go and this was not far enough. Grabbed the next smaller die set and continued to crimp it down until it finally would slide up the neck. Final crimp dia. ended up being 1.980" (vs. 2.093" that works for the 2-1/4" O.D. necks). Supposedly this Scott Drake neck is a very close reproduction to the O.E. neck, so I'd guess (hope) that this diameter would be good for an O.E. '64.5 to 66 neck too. I plan on ordering '67-68 and 1970 Scott Drake necks as well as the '65-66 & '67-68 22 Gal tank conversion necks this week to verify these are all really plated and that there are no fitment issues of the insert. Anyone that bought an insert kit that would like a COMPLETE NECK with INSERT instead let me know. Once insert kit is received back, I will give you a full $29.00 CREDIT towards the purchase of a complete neck. Thanks, Doug
  18. Thanks for the kind words, I'm real pleased with the results. The in the trunk tube is the pre-bent line from CJP / Classic Tube mentioned in the first post. The outside inverted flare tube I got from Autozone ... part # PA-540, guessing PA stands for "Poly Armor" which is the outer bronze coating 5 = 5/16" and 40 is 40". Never seen tubing like this before and I even asked if they had regular galvanized tubing and the counter guy said no, but maybe it could be special ordered. I don't normally shop there, but was running late and my regular store (Carquest, know the owner real well) had already closed. Doug
  19. I've had a couple of local Mustang owners asking for complete necks with inserts installed, so that was also why I was researching necks and what is available. Ideally I'd prefer to offer these as Galvanized or Zinc Plated only, but with all the various mfr's. and re-sellers of these things, it might be hard to actually go this route unless I were to strip and re-plate painted necks myself. The Goodmark Necks were supposedly Galvanized, but both the '67-68 and '69 Goodmark neck from same supplier were Painted ... my guess is Goodmark is just a reseller and switched mfr's. So far the CJP FFP3 and the S-D C9ZZ-9034-A are zinc plated (CF028C '69 neck from same mfr.), as is the '65-66 S-D neck in the prior post (CF028A, again same mfr.), and the '67-68 S-D neck in the post below (FF028B). The 22 Gallon conversion necks (1970 Tank in 65-66 or 67-68) ... CJP FFP11 and FFP12 are zinc plated. For some reason these conversion necks are made out of a heavier gauge tubing than the other necks so they require the insert to be crimped down a bit further to slip up the neck. And as stated 2 posts down, inserts for the Scott Drake '65-66 neck and likely O.E. '65-66 necks need the insert crimped down even further as the tubing used for this neck is 2-1/8" O.D. instead of 2-1/4". Complete Necks with Insert Installed Pricing: '65-66 Painted ... $90.00 + shipping '65-66 Plated ... $98.00 + shipping '65-66 w/ 1970 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping '67-68 Painted ... $97.00 + shipping '67-68 Plated ... $94.00 + shipping '67-68 w/ 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping 1969 Painted ... $93.00 + shipping 1969 Plated ... $89.00 + shipping 1970 Painted ... $95.00 + shipping 1970 Plated ... $**.** + shipping (need to find a plated version to sell) USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... 1 Neck Assembly … $11.00 USPS Shipping Lower 48 States … 2 '65-66 Neck or 2 or 3 '67-68 Neck Assemblies … $14.00 ** OR ** 2-1/4" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation ... $25.00 NET + shipping 2-1/4" OD x 0.065" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation … $27.00 NET + shipping 2-1/8" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your Installation ... $30.00 NET + shipping ('65-66 only) Please state what year and neck type so I can send you the correctly crimped insert USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... $5.00 for 1-2 Kits or $8.00 for 3-4 kits NOTE that paint gets disturbed on painted necks where insert is staked in place. I will touch up these areas with silver paint on the outside to prevent corrosion, however color / brightness of my touch up does not match mfr. applied paint (of the 4 painted necks I've bought so far, there are at least 2 different silvers used). However, with the bracing in the trunk on either side of the neck view of the stake mark locations are not something anyone will notice unless they are looking for it. For plated necks, the quality of the plating job can vary and since I'm not having them plated or re-plated myself what you receive will be as the mfr. supplied it to me. Send me a PM if interested. Doug
  20. It has been a few weeks and all sold inserts have shipped ... 22 so far ... and I still have some to sell if anyone is interested. Anyway, I was researching classic Mustang filler necks and discovered that '65-66 necks are quite a bit longer than '69 & '70 and '67-68 falls somewhere in-between. I've only messed with '69-70 necks so far and I'm claiming this mod should work on all '65-70 Mustang & Cougar necks. So I ordered up two different '65-66 necks (1 each painted & zinc plated) and a painted '67-68 neck to see if I need to revise my instructions at all. Last night I successfully got the inserts staked in place in one of the '65-65 necks and the '67-68 neck. The plated '65-66 neck from Scott-Drake is supposed to be a very close copy to O.E. and uses 2-1/8" tubing (instead of 2-1/4") and is expanded out to 2-1/4" to meet up with the hose at the tank. For the insert to fit up this neck (and likely any O.E. '65-66 neck) it will need to be crimped down further to fit and I plan on playing with this on the crimper at work next week. The painted '67-68 neck had a slightly tighter & longer bend than the '69 & '70 necks and was more oval shaped in the bend. To get insert up and around the bend, I had to hammer the top and bottom flanges of the insert a bit to make it somewhat oval shaped and also put the neck in a vise (with soft jaws) to squeeze/flex the oval shape in order to get it to go around the bend. Do-able, but definitely trickier / more work than the '69 or '70 necks and is overall about an inch longer than the '69 neck. The painted '65-66 neck has two bends in it but they are more of a mandrel type (tube stayed more round) so the insert freely slid up past both. It is almost 3" longer than the '69 neck, so this added length and two bends made it even trickier when trying to hold the insert in place while putting the rear retaining stake marks in. Other issue with these longer necks is getting the JB Weld up to the back side of the insert. The Syringe I'm supplying is just long enough for the '69 Neck, so I had to either find a longer syringe (unlikely) or come up with a way to extend the tip. Bought some 1/4" & 5/16" I.D. poly tubing at Menards ... a 4" long piece of 1/4" is the extension and a 3/4" long piece of 5/16" as a coupler will work perfectly for the '65-66 and only adds $0.06 cost to the kit. For the '67-68 2" extension is ideal, and 1" would be helpful for a '69 neck though not necessary. Doug
  21. After seeing that floor, I was going to say check the cowl ... that is great news that cowl is good. Doug
  22. I've had 2 factory AC cars and the fiberglass nipple was broke off the bottom of both cases. Hose was still there sticking out the floor with the fiberglass nipple still inside. Yes a very poor design / location and not durable ... should have been some sort of guard there to avoid foot contact. The fiberglass also weakens over time, so they could possibly break on their own just from years of driving. When I fixed my case I added a brass tube insert in the nipple to add some support ... probably will not last, but fixed for now. The original case from my car was all busted up and missing pieces back when I got the car in 1981 ... probably from a butcher job heater core replacement sometime between 1969 & 1981. The case I currently have was in much better shape, but still needed other repairs / reinforcements besides the drain nipple when I restored it in 2011. It had been in storage from a car that I had been parted out in the late 80's. This case is finally being reproduced, so that is good news. Doug
  23. A picture in the Mustang Recognition Guide from 1981 shows the lever pointing forward but slightly UP (I.E. like 10:00 & 2:00 positions). A lot of pictures in this book were from Ford archives, rather than current so a good chance this is correct. Doug
  24. My custom exterior vent tube line is done that connects to the pre-bent Classic Tube GT500 Vent Line in the trunk. Parts: 1) 168-05-04 Brass 5/16" Hose Stem to 1/4" Male Pipe 1) 207S-04-04 Brass Bulkhead 1/4" FM Pipe Coupling 1) 402-05-04 Brass 5/16" Inverted Flare to 1/4" Male Pipe 90Deg EL 1) 40" Long piece of 5/16" Tubing with inverted Flare Ends (cut about 11" off and beaded the end for hose) 1) 1x1"x1/2" Corner Brace & Small Cushion Loop Clamp. A 1/4-20 bolt replaces the one gas tank bolt, along with a 1/4" USS Flat washer, thin jam nut & nylon insert lock nut on the corner brace. Added a 10-24 threaded insert to the one leg of the corner brace and a 10-24x5/8" Hex Bolt, washer & lockwasher holds the clamp to the corner brace. 3) 5/16" x 2.5" Long Fuel Line and 5 Spring type hose clamps (both ends of pre-bent classic tube line in trunk and the section that hangs down below the valiance). 1) 168-05-02 5/16" Hose Stem to 1/8" Male Pipe, custom 5/8" OD x 13/32" ID Washer & Gasket, and McMaster 5530K14 Teflon Insert 1/8" Pipe Locknut (at filler neck). With the passenger exhaust tip off, I had no problem getting this all in there.
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