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stangs-R-me

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Everything posted by stangs-R-me

  1. Well that simplifies things !! A 1969 Mustang Zinc Plated Neck with insert installed is $97.00 + $14.00 USPS = $111.00 Total USD funds. I've attached the Price List in case your car is not a '69 which has all the details including my contact info and also has pictures. Also attached are the instructions I follow in modding these necks in case you want to do the mod yourself on your existing filler neck. Thanks, Doug Fuel Filler Neck & Insert Kit Price list.pdf Fuel Filler Insert Instructions-R5.pdf
  2. I'm still doing them, just not advertising. Shipping a complete modified neck to Germany is expensive, as I found out when I quoted a guy earlier this year. Shipping cost of one vs. two or three was the same so he was trying to find a few others to share the shipping cost. Have not heard back from him though. Here are the shipping costs I got for one neck to Germany back in March: Priority Mail (6-10 Days) ... $83.00 USD or First Class Package (time varies) ... $44.00 USD BigDuke6 if you are interested, PM me your email address as well as "ship-to" address and I'll send you over all the info as well as the cost of shipping. Doug
  3. Just a further detail ... He has a non-tach dash car, so it can only be for the parking brake light. Seat belt light would be in the gauge cluster on a non-tach car. Doug
  4. BINGO … that was the 1st thing I noticed … thought why would someone spend the time & effort to make headers / manifolds from square tubing ?? Then I saw it was a SB-Cheeby … guess I never realized how WIDE a SBC was in comparison to a SBF. I'd guess '65 Falcon/Comet shock towers are same distance apart as '65-66 Mustang and space for exhaust next to that SBC looks tighter than a BBF in a '67-70 Mustang … his ho-made "Rube Goldberg" manifolds are likely the only way he could make it fit. Car is an original "T" code, guessing 200 Six with 3-on-the-tree. No idea what trans is in it now but shifter was on the floor. Sorry ... thought I posted this in the "GARAGE" forum. Doug
  5. Beat me to it Bob … was going to ask the same thing !! Thanks for sharing OP … very nice car. Doug
  6. Finally got around to changing out the switches today and I now have WORKING LUMBAR !! Found a couple of new-old-stock USA made McGill momentary DPDT switches at work … of course this was AFTER ordering a couple of cheap China made ones off of ebay !! Good ones off of McMaster Carr were $23 each, so I ordered 3 off of ebay for under $14. When I got them and saw how cheap they were, I took a second look at our old switch stock at work and low and behold I found a few mixed in with the SPDT momentary ones I used originally. Anyway, I first tried adding spade jumpers and it just took up too much space and it is tight between the two switches & the AC duct above. The DPDT switches were bulkier to begin with vs. the SPDT switches I had now, so I made a slight mod to both switches before installing. I drilled a small hole at the base of the two spade terminals that wires needed to go to and soldered in 18Ga jumper wires between these added holes and the existing holes in the other two spades that no wire was going to. Then added heat shrink over the 3 unused terminals. 4th pic shows a side view of the original SPDT switches in place and limited space under AC duct. Doug
  7. My 2011 had the mid-range 500W / 8-speaker "Shaker 500" system (vs. Shaker 1000 1000W / 10-speaker system at the top end) My current 2016 has the base 160W / 6-speaker system (vs. Shaker Pro 550W / 12 speaker system at the top end) My wife's 2014 & current 2018 SE Fusion have had the 80W / 6 Speaker system (vs the 210W / 11-speaker system at the top end) Funny, the 1994-04 Mach460 was a 460W / 8-speaker system and it sounded much better than the 500W Shaker system. I do miss the Mach460 (lived with it for 16 years in 3 cars) but I'm perfectly content today with the 2016's system and it does not bother me a bit listening to the 1978 vintage Ford FM radio with 4 aftermarket speakers in the '69. When I do upgrade the '69 radio with an audio input, RCA outputs would be nice so I can add a 4-channel or 2 2-channel AMPS and better speakers. Not looking for high power and thumping subwoofers, just a clean sounding system. Doug
  8. This MOD has been at the back of my mind for many years. I just don't yet have any of my music in a computer or thumb drive as my wife & I are still perfectly content listening to CD's in our cars. That will have to change in a few years when I get my next Mustang as Ford eliminated the CD player in 2019 for the base radio. In order to get one, you have to get a Premium model then add the B&O by Harman Sound System which adds $3,910.00 to the sticker price and obviously a bunch of other "Premium" features that I could care less about in a car. If I could get the B&O system added to a base model, I'd be tempted as I ordered the Mach460 sound system in my 1994, 1998, & 2004 base model Mustangs. So when the time comes in a few years, I'll finally need to put my music on a thumb drive or MP3 player and would then obviously want to add this feature to my stock looking AM/FM in the '69. Doug
  9. OK ... that is MUCH easier ... glad I asked !! Was wondering if maybe this is mentioned in the shop manual and I just missed it. Just skimmed through the Manual Shift Trans section again and there is no mention of this ... so again, glad I asked. Thanks, Doug
  10. So a stock Ford 80's radio or aftermarket ?? I've got a stock 1978 AM/FM in mine … kina wished I saved a 80's vintage Ford AM/FM Cassette when we had various cars with them back then as I've still got all my tapes and have had only a home tape deck to play them on since 2004 when I sold my last car to have a tape deck. Doug
  11. 1969 Ford Shop Manual shows a magnetic drain plug in the bottom of a 4-Speed Toploader trans case … figures, my 1969 Toploader has NO DRAIN PLUG. So, what is the quickest / easiest way to drain one without a plug ?? Here is my thinking: 1) Remove Shifter & speedo cable 2) Put a jack under belhousing 3) Remove crossmember 4) put some support under trans tailshaft (jack stand or 2nd jack) 5) remove trans bolts and roll trans to let it drain out of speedo cable hole or fill hole (hopefully there is enough room in the tunnel to allow this) Thanks,
  12. I was going to say the same thing. Doug
  13. Glad I was wrong in my thinking that aluminum wheels should normally be hub centric. Learned something new today ... that is always good. Hopefully your installer or someone else close to you has the correct lug centric adapter so they can get you set up properly. Doug
  14. Just googled VWW and all the links I clicked on to their site are down. Likely reason is it appears that Coker Tire bought them out. Also googled the V45 and I see that it is an aluminum wheel similar to an old-school Torq-Thrust D. Can't say I've ever run across an aluminum wheel that is NOT hub centric, so your installer balanced them right which means you either have bad tires, wheels or both. Doug
  15. If they are Steel Magnum 500 wheels, the OE wheels were always LUG centric … not HUB centric as there really is no round center hub to locate on. I'd assume the repros are the same. Doug
  16. If not a Mach 1 as you say and as it appears in the pics, what engine did it come with originally ?? Best it could be is a 351W as it does not have big block shock towers. If not a factory 351 (M or H for 5th digit of VIN ... vs. F=302 / L=250 / T=200), it will NOT have a 9" rear unless someone added it later. I see a woodgrain dash in the trunk ... if it were originally a deluxe interior décor group car with a 351W and some other decent / desirable factory options it might be worth restoring. If a plain jane 302/250/200 definitely not ... at best a donor shell for a Dynacorn re-body maybe. Doug
  17. I just started going though my old Mustang receipts (prior to 1998 when I started using Quicken). I'm slowly putting all these old receipts in a spreadsheet by date and am up to 1988 (bought the car in 1981). Anyway I got this '70 O.E. Hurst Shifter from some guy selling Mustang parts and was curious what I actually paid for it. This was the Summer of 1984 and I went to his house to look at his Mustang parts and a '69 Mach 1 project car he had for sale. Within my receipts I found a note saying ... Shifter FREE ... I don't show buying any other parts from this guy and I know it was NOT the shifter that I went to look at. Maybe because the lever was all banged up or that the threaded end for the knob was snapped off I don't know why he gave it to me for FREE and I certainly did not remember this fact from that day and seeing the note recently certainly did not jog any memory either. Thought I'd share, Doug
  18. My Hurst is stealthy though with stock boot, lever & knob up top just like yours ... got to crawl under the car to see it !!
  19. I've got an O.E. '70 Hurst Shifter on mine plus it is 1-2 up-shift only that I get the occasional grind. Doug
  20. There was a lock-out rod for the 1970 4-Speed too … had to be in reverse (IIRC) to be able to remove the key. I'd guess the base 3-Speed likely had the lock-out rod too, but can't say for sure. Doug
  21. I bought the PennGrade Gear Oil from Summit last fall after reading about this issue either here or elsewhere. Just need to drain out the GL-5 that has been in there since 2011 when I get it out of storage and pour in the GL-4. I had bought a complete rebuild kit from David Kee and had a local guy give mine an overhaul back in 2011. I just got the correct weight gear oil from the local auto parts store not knowing I should be concerned with it being GL4 or GL5 at the time. This Toploader had never been gone through before (short of a fluid change in the mid 80's) so the rebuild made a huge difference. However it does grind going into 2nd every once in a while, so I'm hoping a swap to the correct lube stops or lessens it … vs. having to take trans out to have my guy go through it again. Doug
  22. For some reason I thought my car was built in March 1969, just looked at my data plate today and it's date code is 07B … guessing that would be February 7, 1969 so I missed it either way !! Doug
  23. Hey at least the OE '70 Mach 1 Tips came with a 2-1/8" Inlet and the Scott drake Concourse repro's claim they will fit up to 2-1/4". Interestingly, the Scott Drake tips are Chrome Plated Steel and not 304 stainless like the '67-69 tips. Read a few complaints about the SD tips rusting through the chrome quickly too, so that's not good. There are stock looking Rolled-Lip '70 Tips on ebay made out of 304 SS that would be the way I'd go if I had a '70. Sure they would also fit 2-1/4" and maybe could be even be expanded by an exhaust shop to fit 2-1/2". Doug
  24. Got the parts earlier this week and finished up the project today … turned out really nice with no clearance issues anywhere. Was thinking the rolled lips were going to still be the smallest restriction, but with a little math I found this is NOT TRUE … the 2-1/4" exhaust system tubing I.D. is actually less area than the twin tips. 2-1/4" 0.065" Wall Tubing = 3.528 sq-in area each Twin Tips are 1.895" I.D. = 2.82 sq-in area each x 2 = 5.64 Rolled Slant Cut Oval = 3.019 sq-in area each x 2 =6.038 The 1-3/4" O.D. crimped down tail ends I had before with the OE style tips = 1.986 sq-in area vs. the 3.528 sq-in of 2-1/4" tubing is a 77.6% increase in area which is a huge improvement. Using these tips on a 2-1/2" System would not be a restriction either as this with 0.065" Wall tubing would be 4.41 sq-in area which is also smaller than the twin tips.
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