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stangs-R-me

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Everything posted by stangs-R-me

  1. You are not going to loose ability to steer your car if the cylinder goes bad. A Power Steering car still has all the same (or similar) components as a Manual Steering car. Only difference is a PS car has a control valve on the end of the centerlink and a MS car does not. With any failed PS component steering effort will increase, but it's not as if the steering wheel no longer has any control. Steering effort would be similar to Manual Steering. Doug
  2. You are not going to loose ability to steer your car if the cylinder goes bad. A Power Steering car still has all the same (or similar) components as a Manual Steering car. Only difference is a PS car has a control valve on the end of the centerlink and a MS car does not. With any failed PS component steering effort will increase, but it's not as if the steering wheel no longer has any control. Steering effort would be similar to Manual Steering. Doug
  3. Always happy to offer help where I can. My car had no hood lip moulding when I got it so I can't say if the original stayed on any better than the Ford replacement I bought. Thought at first my replacement came with the wrong clips or I was missing something (some sort of reinforcment like '70 has). But found out from other owners that this had always been a problem and they just deal with it !! Did not like that answer so I came up with a fix. Doug
  4. Always happy to offer help where I can. My car had no hood lip moulding when I got it so I can't say if the original stayed on any better than the Ford replacement I bought. Thought at first my replacement came with the wrong clips or I was missing something (some sort of reinforcment like '70 has). But found out from other owners that this had always been a problem and they just deal with it !! Did not like that answer so I came up with a fix. Doug
  5. Way back in 1987, I came up with a permanent fix for 1969 hood edge molding that never seemed to stay tightly attached as it should. All it takes is to try and open or close the hood by grabbing the trim instead of the hood and it's loose again. As an owner, you learn ... but every new person that tries to either open or close the hood typically grabs this trim and next thing you know it is loose and you've got fresh chipped paint !! Out of 1/16" thick aluminum sheet, I cut 6 pc. 5/8" x 3/4" and drilled an 1/8" dia hole in the center. Then take the original cheasy clips and thread them though the 1/8" holes until they bottom out (in the aluminum, it will self thread and stay tight). Then slide each into the molding track and re-mount using the original nuts. You loose a little length on the fasteners but you should have no problem getting the threads to grab. This is a MOD that no one will know you've done and that trim will never come loose or move again. I actually sent this in to Mustang Monthly back in 1987 and it made the "Beter Idea of the Month" collumn. Doug
  6. Way back in 1987, I came up with a permanent fix for 1969 hood edge molding that never seemed to stay tightly attached as it should. All it takes is to try and open or close the hood by grabbing the trim instead of the hood and it's loose again. As an owner, you learn ... but every new person that tries to either open or close the hood typically grabs this trim and next thing you know it is loose and you've got fresh chipped paint !! Out of 1/16" thick aluminum sheet, I cut 6 pc. 5/8" x 3/4" and drilled an 1/8" dia hole in the center. Then take the original cheasy clips and thread them though the 1/8" holes until they bottom out (in the aluminum, it will self thread and stay tight). Then slide each into the molding track and re-mount using the original nuts. You loose a little length on the fasteners but you should have no problem getting the threads to grab. This is a MOD that no one will know you've done and that trim will never come loose or move again. I actually sent this in to Mustang Monthly back in 1987 and it made the "Beter Idea of the Month" collumn. Doug
  7. I use Mobil 1 15W-50 as it still has the ZDDP anti-wear additive in it that all non-roller / flat tappet cams need. What ever oil you do use, make sure it has this additive still in it or you are adding a separate ZDDP type additive at each oil change. As all late model cars have roller cams this additive is no longer needed. The fact that these chemicals are bad for emissions is the other reason oil companies have removed it from every day motor oils. Doug
  8. Way back in the early 80's I originally ran Doug Thorley Headers and Walker Turbo mufflers following the stock '70 set up (dual mufflers in front of axle) and it sounded pretty good. A few years later I ran over a rock that some kids rolled in the street as a Halloween prank and smashed one header and a muffler so I was looking to replace the exhaust again. Insurance company gave me a pretty decent check (thanks to my exhaust shop quoting $$ Hooker Super-Comp Headers instead of the cheap and NLA DT's I had), so I looked around at all the options. The reproduction "factory" system (dual resonators in front & tranverse muffler behind axle) had just come out and I got talked into going this route ... was told that it actually sounds real nice and I definitely was NOT disapointed. Got the high-flow 2-1/4" system (orig on Boss-302/429 & 428CJ) and a 351W H-Pipe to match ... also ported my factory 351W Exhaust Manifolds which surprisingly were pretty decent as-is and am running repro factory-style S.S. rolled-lip Quad tips. My 351W is bored 0.03 over with 9.5:1 Forged Pistons, a slightly lumpy Crower Street/Strip cam, Offy 360 Dual Plane Intake, & Holley 650 Double Pumper ... this stock exhaust has a real nice burble at idle and a very nice growl when I get on it. These systems are made of heavier gauge steel than aftermarket and now come aluminized so they last a long time. Heck my system is 23~24 years old and still solid and sounding good. Just another option that most people would not think about !! Doug
  9. SMB-K was the 16:1 Power Steering Box but also the service replacement for the SMB-F 16:1 box used on Manual Steering cars (per Ford Shop manual). Why the SMB-F existed at all really makes no sense to me. Doug
  10. "SMB-D" is definitely the 19.9:1 ratio manual box, interesting !! I always thought the the 16:1 ratio "SMB-F" manual box was part of the "(GT) Handling Suspension" which was std. on all '69 Mach 1 & GT models. But looking through the Mustang Recogition Guide, the only place I see the quicker ratio manual box mentioned is on the Boss 302. The "Illustrated Facts Book" also makes no mention of steering ratio on the Mach 1, GT, or Handing Suspension option. Definitely a mystery. Doug
  11. I believe these are the clips ... see pics. If I am correct, the two pins on the clip go into the holes on the side of the register and a screw goes into the clip forcing the back side of the clip against the back side of the dash pad. It has been a LOOONG time since I had my dash pad off, but mustangmaniac mentioned "2 metal clips" and it triggered my memory. Knew I had a spare register, just had to dig in my clip drawer and "surprise" I've got 3 clips. Could not find a screw that looked right though. There are spots for two clips per side, but I think only 2 were ever used. Doug
  12. These must then be Drum Brake Spindles ('66-69 same on Fairlane/Mustang) as the disc brake spindles are different between '66-67 & '69 (assume due to earlier 4 piston vs. single piston calipers). '68-69 Fairlane & Mustang (except B302/429) all used the same disc & drum spindles. Looking in my Ford Interchange Manual, '69 B302 & B429 each had unique splindles and neither carried over to '70 ... so there are 3 possible '69 Disc Brake Spindles which got consolidated to 1 in '70. Also, both disc & drum splindles changed again in for '71-73. Doug
  13. Yep, you need the smaller '69 tie rod ends !! From what I remember, all '69 had the smaller ones but Boss 302 & 429 which had the larger ones that later became std. on all '70-up. Went through this on my car way back in '81 ... got a complete PDB set up from a wrecked '70 302 Coupe to swap onto my '69 Coupe and ended up needing the bigger tie rod ends to make it work. Doug
  14. My car has a replacement N.O.S. Ford Hood Pin Kit I bought in the early 80's. Here are the dimensions and some (not so great) pics ... 1/8" O.D. Cable (always thought it was S.S. wire, but it is magnetic) Loop is 7/8" long x 1/2" wide (past crimp ferrule) Crimp Ferrule is 1/2" L x 1/4" W x 0.13" Thick (also mildly magnetic) O/A Cable Length from out side of loop ends is 25" Doug
  15. Here's 2 more pics (thought I had them attached in last post) of my custom lift support. Doug
  16. I've been lifting my '69 (and a '67 Fairlane) since the early 80's with a custom lift plate I made from 3) 2x4's x30" long ... see pics below. As long as your car's chassis and rad-support is solid/not questionable, I think it is a safe way to lift the front of these cars. At times I used to even put the jack stands at the ends of this lift plate/support rather than crawling under the car (depending on what I was working on). Doug
  17. I bought an all original but rusty '69 Sportsroof back in the early 80's as a parts car. Still had it's factory Candy Apple Red paint / Black std. interior, 302 / AT with factory Sport Mirrors that had the straight control with the same rectangular bezel as used on a deluxe interior car. Car also had a console, deluxe seat belts, clock, and Convience group. Funny thing is it was NOT all that bad for a car driven in Illinois for 90k miles, but it was junk compared to my basically rust-free coupe that lived in Georgia & Viginia up until I got it in 1981. Scarry thing is a sportsroof found in this same original condition today would be a real find and definitely worth restoring. Doug
  18. Laurel Mountain is one of the two vendors I'd seen the "Early '69" versions at ... shipping was reasonable too. Doug
  19. Back in the 80's when I was trying to find good used stuff in salvage yards & swap meets sport mirrors were one of the things you needed to see in person / hold in your hand and look over closely. My passenger door shuts hard and I cracked a couple of bases, so I was always looking for good replacements. Many were junk back then (bases either cracked, bent, or both, and manual and/or remote mirror adjustments not functional), so I could just imagine the real condition of a lot of the e-bay mirrors 25 years later. The only way I'll put a set of them on this friend's car is if he agrees to the repops ... at least we know what we're getting this way (made by Scott Drake, I assume). Doug
  20. Thanks for the quick reply. I had previously just looked on CJ Pony & e-bay and only saw the "late '69-70 style 90Deg control repro's and I thought this was kind of odd. Now did a google search and found TWO vendors selling the "early '69" style straight control repro's and price is the same. Makes sence they would offer both it's not like the straight control was a one model year odd ball. I'd also like to add that with all the salvage yard searching I did in the 80's and all the car shows I've been to over the years I've NEVER seen an original '69 car with the '70 style mirror control factory installed !! Doug
  21. First post, long time '69 Mustang owner and two friends of mine just bought '69-70 Mustangs. First one got a '70 Mach 1 ... very nice car and Marti report shows it is almost as it rolled out of the factory: Grabber Blue, 351C 2V, AT, Shaker, Sport Slats, and Rear Spoiler. Only variance is it is missing the factory installed front bumper guards and now has a front spoiler. Second one got a '69 Convertible ... have not seen in person yet. Anyway may be installing a pair of these repro sport mirrors on this non-deluxe '69 Convertible (that currently has just a single non-remote chrome mirror on it) and I've noticed the repro mirrors have the '70 style control. All original base '69 interior door panels had the perferations in them for the rectangular '69 style remote control, but do the reproductions ?? I guess my question is can the '70 style remote control end be adapted to a plain '69 door panel either original or repro ?? Do these repro racing mirrors come with all the parts needed or do I need a backing plate and trim nut ?? ------- Also, the 70' Mach 1 has a broken mirror remote control. His options to fix would be either to find a used e-bay mirror with a good control or buy a repro mirror assy. Will the guts from a repro mirror go into an original housing or are we going to have to paint the repro mirror housing ?? Thanks, Doug
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