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Everything posted by stangs-R-me

  1. Thanks for all the replies. I ordered up the NPD 9741-6A (Boss 302 version) and I should have it tomorrow. Here is my custom bracket I made for the Holley Double Pumper from a 2BBL bracket. As you can see in the 2nd pic, I bent a tab and added a screw to hold it to the base. Also from 2nd pic and the 3rd pic you can that the secondary accelerator pump & arm are in the way of using the factory 4 BBL bracket. I'm also trying to duplicate my custom fuel line assembly I did on the Holley (pic 3) for the Summit carb as the chrome tube assy. supplied with the Summit carb is against the heater hose going to the top of the intake. First attempt is no where as clean looking as I did on the Holley, main issue is the Summit uses 3/8" tubing and the Holley used 5/16" which is much easier to work with. Doug
  2. There are two variations listed on NPD & CJPP 69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A / CJPP TCB1) and 69-70 Boss 302 (NPD 9741-6A / CJPP TCB2) They sell for the same price and from the pics, they look almost identical or at least interchangeable. Anyway, I just bought a new Summit M08600VS 600CFM with Vac Sec & Elec Choke to replace my Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper I've had on the car for over 30 years and it looks like one of the above brackets might work, or I could cut apart one and modify to make work. I had a repo of the non-Boss 4BBL bracket years ago on the Autolite 4300, but this would not fit the Double Pumper so after the Holley swap it ended up on another car that I later sold. For the Double Pumper I made a custom cable bracket using an OE 2BBL bracket as a starting point (would rather not modify that to fit this new carb). Anyone know the difference between these 2 brackets ?? My guess is maybe the drop-down section goes lower on the B302 version to clear a bigger secondary fuel bowl but from the pics this looks pretty much the same. Thanks, Doug
  3. I've been running DOT 5 Silicone in my '69 since the late 80's with no issues. Flushed it with new fluid in 2011. Doug
  4. I've been following this thread and just realized I never posted any comments. Really turned out nice, glad you decided to restore it instead of parting it out. Notice you put a 390 in it, was it a factory big block car too ?? If so, that would make that Grande' even rarer !! Doug
  5. Nice work and looks great, love the color. The 17" Legendary GT9 wheels were an excellent choice and look great on it as well ... I've got the 15" versions on my '69 and absolutely love the look and quality of them as does everyone that sees them. Comparing them to the stock 14" GT argent slotted wheels I had on the car for the past 30+ years many did a double take the 1st time they saw the car with them as it was a huge change to the o/a look !! Doug
  6. My 351W has a Wide Ratio Top Loader, 3:50 Gears, and 225/60-15 (25.63" Dia.) tires. 2840 RPM @ 60 MPH or 3551 RPM @ 75 MPH in 4th. OK on 55 MPH back roads but screaming on the 70 MPH Interstate !! Doug
  7. I've recently been informed of a gas cap clocking issue with the '65-66 Scott Drake Zinc Plated neck. The issue being the gas cap will not turn far enough for the artwork to be level. Interestingly, I was also informed that the Painted version of this neck (made by a different mfr.) available from various suppliers does not have this issue. I had originally bought 1 of these painted necks from Summit as it was a cheaper than the Zinc Plated one. Not liking the looks of the blistered paint around the stake marks (even after touching up), I felt the added cost of the Zinc Plated one was worth it so it was "1 & done" for the painted version. After discovering the issue, I started stocking the painted version again and even found a supplier selling the Goodmark version for less than Summit. Well this vendor must have had them on "clearance", as they no longer list it. Having 4 of the Scott Drake Zinc Plated ones in my inventory, I figured I needed to do something so I bought a Scott Drake 1965 Mustang gas cap to confirm that there was no clocking issue if the proper gas cap was used ... WRONG ... even the Scott Drake cap on the Scott Drake neck has the problem !! So, I put a cut-off wheel on my Dremel and cut back the stops and eliminated the CLOCKING ISSUE. Took maybe 10 minutes. All my '65-66 Scott Drake necks are now fixed and this mod will be done to all of them from here on out. See attached pdf for instructions and pictures. Doug FIXING THE CLOCKING ISSUE.pdf
  8. Since you have a '69, the Zinc Plated version is the way to go. I did buy one of the painted '69 necks from Goodmark to check it out, but there is barely any cost savings over the zinc plated one from CJPP, so once that painted one sold I never ordered another. I've got 3 of the '69 Zinc Plated one currently in stock. Doug
  9. I've got a complete convertible power top assy. from a '69 Cougar that has been in dry storage since the mid 80's. It is located in Skokie, Illinois however I have no interest in trying to ship it. I looked at your profile and see you are in Georgia so mine is NO CLOSER to you than any of the others mentioned. Doug
  10. That is great news Bob ... really hoped that it was only the "older short nozzle" style an installation at the original dimensions would have issues with. A sigh of relief really, as this further solidifies that the few '65-66 Scott Drake necks I did at the original dimensions (about 1" further down the neck than the others) are the only ones that will not work with most if not all Stage II Vapor Recovery nozzles. Thanks again, Doug
  11. I had to CHANGE my dimensions a while back after finding out Cali (and a few other states) still uses Stage II emissions and the nozzles require the insert to be further up the neck. The only ones customers have had issues with though was the '65-66 Scott Drake Zinc Plated version that had the insert located the furthest down the neck. Attached is the updated dimension sheet (back side of the tool list doc), where I've moved all inserts as far up as possible while still leaving room to add a VENT above the insert in the '69 GT500 vent recall location. Doug Fuel Filler Insert Tool List-R5.pdf
  12. I've messed with a bunch of clocks over the years, many I've put quartz movements in and a couple I've got going again with the stock movements. Only had 1 or two that I could not get the knob to come off and gave up as I was concerned that I'd break the stem before it would actually unscrew. One of the stubborn ones was a '69-70 Mach 1 clock. The knob on O.E. '69-70 Mach 1 clocks is metal, not "plastic" so, there is a chance the shaft could snap off. Doug
  13. Back in the 80's I made one out of a 3/8-24 bolt by turning the end down in a lathe. Pretty reasonable price at MCR for that custom made tool. Doug
  14. Pretty bad when a VW Golf is heavy enough to crack 3 Ton stands. I currently have 2 sets of 2 ton and 2 sets of 3 ton. The 3's are newer and I bought them for the sole reason they can get cars up a bit higher. My 2 different 2 ton sets (one set are all stamped steel with rolled & welded center support other has the cast ratchet type) I've had forever and never had any issues with either of them. And as beefy as my 3-ton ones are (think I got from Fleet Farm) I can't see this crap happening to them either. I do have a low profile steel 2-ton Harbor Freight Jack though … bought it in 2009 (prior to when the newer "1 pump to bumper" types became common) and have never had any issues with it. Doug
  15. All the reproduction Zinc Plated Necks come without the factory "vent dent" in the face that allows your gas tank to breathe with a non-vented gas cap (which all O.E.'65-70 Mustang Caps were). All the reproduction Painted / Powder Coated necks come with this dent as do the '65-66 & '67-68 Conversion Necks, it is just the '65-69 Scott Drake and CJPP Zinc Plated Necks that come without. Anyway, I started adding this dent on all these necks a while ago, and finally finished a write up on the subject. See attached PDF. Doug ADDING VENT DENT.pdf
  16. Lowest it got in NE Wisconsin was just under $1 for E10 87 and $1.699 for ethanol free 91 …. a few weeks ago. Just bought gas yesterday and the 91 is back up to $2.499 (was $2.399 last Sunday). Still pretty darn cheap. Doug
  17. The alignment an my '69 with all stock '69 parts and a new Scott Drake '69 neck looked like your pic of the '70 neck. In my case I'm guessing my misalignment is due to the fact that it had been rear ended when it was fairly new and instead of replacing the T/L panel & driver's quarter they pulled it out and this misalignment was "close enough". You have to slip the hose on the 2 stems with the neck partially out of the taillight panel anyway, so just get it together and pull it in the last bit with the screws. On my still original T/L panel, I used machine screws & nuts in place of the O.E. sheet metal screws to mount the neck and pull it in … at least one of the holes was partially stripped out, so this was more solid and a better solution for my situation. Doug
  18. USPS had a postage increase so I had to update my price list. Also, the darn '65-66 & '67-68 conversion necks keep getting more expensive (guessing not high demand & only one mfr.) so these prices have been adjusted too. I've also reintroduced the Painted '65-66 Neck as I've found a source for these that is quite a bit less than Summit. There can also be a gas cap clocking issue with the Scott Drake Zinc '65-66 Plated neck where the stop may need to be trimmed back a bit and this is not an issue with this painted neck. Interestingly, the '67-68 & '69 Scott Drake Zinc Plated necks don't have this issue, only the '65-66. Doug
  19. They say the paper version of the magazine is dead, but Mustang Monthly lives online. I don't see any NEW content on Mustang360/Mustang Monthly. Does new content actually exist somewhere online or not ?? If so, how do you access it ?? I've also not got any phone calls or mail regarding what to do with my recently renewed 3 year subscriptions to MM & MCR. Are they hoping they can just keep everyone's $$ ?? Doug
  20. I think there is more head room in the back of a '69-70 Sportsroof than there is in the current 2015-20 ... you need to be about 5'5" to sit upright in them. I'm 5' 10" and was able to sit upright in my 2011 without my head hitting the back glass but not my 2016. I'll have to remember to try and sit in the back of my friend's '70 Mach 1 this summer to see how it compares to my '16. Great progress on the car, I'm guessing Mike can't wait for it to be finally road worthy !! Doug
  21. The correct bulb is a # 256 which is a FLASHER. For a while they were NLA from the local auto parts store, but I recently found NPD selling them. Mine had burned out so I stole the bulb from a spare PB Light set that is for my brother's car ... glad I could finally replace the bulb I borrowed !! Doug
  22. Parking Brake Light goes to the Fuse Panel; if it came with it from the factory, there should be a pigtail with a triple YELLOW female plug coming off the fuse block (as shown in the diagram). This fuse & triple plug only came on cars with Parking Brake light, Seat Belt light, or other accessory options (cruise control or tilt-away wheel may plug in here too). Cars without just had the one end of the fuse holder in the fuse block. Been a while since i messed with dash wiring (2011) so I can't remember what that green & yellow stripe / red female terminal goes to ... possibly under dash light or door light ?? Doug
  23. Did the column rebuild in 2011 on mine ... wish I had that very well done 2016 write up to follow !! Bought all the seals from MCR, there were not even remnants of any of the originals. The lower plastic bearing was not being reproduced yet and mine was completely gone so I had to make something (cut out of a white PVC pipe coupling) to retain that foam seal in place. Also had to add a small screw at the bottom to retain my custom lower plastic bearing / seal retainer, other wise it would have eventually slipped out the end of the tube. Other issue I had was play in the upper bearing and a new bearing & sleeve did not fix it. The steering shaft itself was worn where it rides in the bearing (I'm guessing 150k miles of manual steering might do that). I had to add some adhesive backed shim stock between the bearing and steering shaft surface to eliminate the play. So there was nothing wrong with the bearing or the plastic sleeve it sits in ... 2 more parts I bought but did not need. Doug
  24. And the Jan 2020 Issue of MM that I received last week is still had New Subscription cards in it ... interestingly, the Muscle Car Review I received the same day had none. Doug
  25. What do you plan to use as an AIR FILTER ?? I'm thinking there can only be a few options out there for dual carb set ups and I'd guess most if not all Ford variations are open element types like what you typically see on 60's Ford's with dual 4's. From pic's, it looks like these oval shaped air filters are narrower as well as shorter than the round element used in a shaker. Possibly a Mopar factory dual 4bbl air filter is wider and possibly taller too. I'm no Mopar expert, but did they ever do dual 4's under their Shaker ?? If so, I'd certainly study that air filter base … however the Mopar Shaker scoop is much larger than Ford's too. I guess the point I'm trying to make is you definitely want to design your air filter housing around an air filter element that is readily available. Guess you could design around two round elements as you see on some dual 4 set ups, but I'd think these would have far less filtration surface area that one large oval element. Having your custom elongated shaker air filter housing clear the distributor cap & wires is another hurdle that may make this impossible. If you can pull this off AND give it a stock look under the hood it will be a huge accomplishment !! Wish you the best of luck, Doug
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