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stangs-R-me

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stangs-R-me last won the day on March 23

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About stangs-R-me

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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    N.E. Wisconsin

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  1. I'm not an engineer but I play one at work. My degree is in Industrial Technology ... the orginal "IT" ... basically a step below an engineer. Or as the engineering students called us in the 80's "IT" stands for "I Tried" (engineering) but flunked out !! Not my case though, I knew up front my abilities and started there. Doug
  2. I did not know Open Tracker offered a kit like this ... looks nice ... and it does say 351W & 351C '67-70 so that should work.
  3. What you are describing would more likely be something in the bellhousing (pressure plate or the fork) rather than under the dash. Doug
  4. It's been 10 years since I had mine out, so details are a bit fuzzy. You do need the dash pad & gauge cluster out, and steering column is tied into it but just needs to be unbolted from it (steering column can stay in car still attached to firewall). I'd also pull the drivers seat out so you can lay in the car ... which I'd probably do 1st so you can get a good look up in there to check the bushings & support to see if there is anything broken or cracked. Doug
  5. All these years, I guess I've just missed when wire 904 was mentioned as a switched 12 volt source under the hood !! Thanks, Doug
  6. My pedal was also not returning fully to the stop bumper every time in the late 00's So I finally went though it all back in 2011 and found that one of the two pot-metal bushings in the the clutch & brake pedal support that pedal rod pivots on was split. I had completely rebuilt the pedal support with all new parts including a new clutch pedal shaft less than 30k miles prior and it had failed again. So, I installed a Mustang Steve Ball Bearing Retrofit Kit to replace the poorly designed factory pot metal bushing / plastic insert set up and the problem is now gone forever. There are other kits out there with roller bearings that ride directly on the clutch pedal shaft (Scott Drake's kit is one), but you want to avoid this style kit if you are not going to replace the shaft at the same time. My new shaft with less than 30k miles already had a wear groove starting to form in it, which could cause the roller bearing to prematurely fail. For the Ball Bearings, I just needed to polish it / knock the high spot down to work with Steve's Kit as these bearings have an inner race that rides on the shaft. Doug
  7. I had been running a Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper with a Holley 37-485 Electric Choke kit since 2012 and had it hooked up to the Stator terminal as Ford always did in the 70's & 80's.. Choke always opened fully in what seemed to be a normal amount of time. Replaced the Holley earlier this year with a Summit M08600VS 600 CFM Vac Secondary with Electric Choke and again hooked it up to the Stator terminal. It also opens fully with no issues. Both the Holley Choke Kit and the Summit Carb state you MUST use a 12V source and I was going to wire in 12V if the Summit carb really needed it. The Summit carb is actually made by Holley and the choke caps looked identical and the flat coil spring inside of both caps was the same thickness too. I like the relay idea shared by BlueCoupe, that would eliminate the need to run a wire inside the car to get 12V switched power as there is no source under the hood of a stock '69 Mustang. Doug
  8. This style petcock that I've got on my radiator allows you to slip a piece of hose over it ... if you can find this style somewhere.
  9. rwcstang, That does look very nice and like the modern digital functions are great additions. The running pony high beam indicator is not in the factory tach dash either, so there is commonality there Doug
  10. Guess I should post an UPDATE since I've been driving it since the end of April !! As I stated in my Jan 5th post, I pressure tested my custom fuel inlet line in a bucket of water with compressed air and had no leaks. Well, I ended up having a fuel leak between my custom tube and the brass primary fuel bowl inlet fitting. Tightening it did not help, so I removed the tube assy. and put on temporary hose barbs / tee and cobbled it together with hose & clamps. My flare on the tube was good at the leak point, however the cone in the brass adapter was distorted / damaged so I ordered a 2-pc set of them from Summit (surprised it actually sealed up to the temporary brass hose barb adapter). There was the Summit brand, Holley, & Demon to chose from and I went with the Demon 142117 2-pc. set as it came with the washers & screens and was the best value (all 3 are likely made by the same mfr.). Replaced it and reinstalled my tube assembly and the leak was gone. I had read that you really should use a 4-hole carb spacer on a dual plane intake so I also ordered up a Canton 85-154 4-hole 1/4" thick phenolic spacer and a MR G # 55 4-hole gasket for between the carb & spacer to replace the thick open center gasket supplied with the Summit carb. Since my Offy 360 dual plane is not a 4-hole style, I used an open center gasket between the spacer & intake. With my custom Ram-Air set up, I can't have any thicker spacer than this. I had also ordered up the MR G # 97 1/4" thick heat dissipator set (2 aluminum plates & 3 # 55 gaskets) and tried this first but it did not dissipate the heat enough in that I could hear fuel gurgling when I shut the engine off when hot. Funny, the Holley never did this and all I used under it for 30+ years was a single MR G # 55 gasket !! The electric choke hooked up to the alternator stator terminal (instead of 12V as stated in the Summit instructions) also seems to be acceptable as the choke fully opens like it should and when it should. I also installed a Holley 20-59 Quick Change Cover Kit on the Vac-Secondary spring chamber. The secondaries did not seem to be opening, so I swapped out the stock 0.033" wire spring for a 0.029" and they now seem to be opening at the right time. I also followed the instructions from this video prior to installation: I did need to turn the curb idle speed screw in a bit to get it to idle at 700-750 RPM and the sweet spot on the idle mixture screws is at 2 full turns out. My vacuum is a little low at idle (only 11-12"), and I'm tempted to swap the Holley back on to see where it was at before. It starts & idles nicely and runs & drives great, so I'm not too concerned at the moment. Doug
  11. As 1969_Mach1 said ... The dimple is the spot and just measure the OD of the groove in the boot then cut the hole slightly undersize (~1/8") for a tight fit. I'm sure someone on here has a original manual car they can measure the hole size if you want to wait for that answer. Doug
  12. I don't thing the rot in the inner roof structure is common ... at least I've never seen anything like that. As it it was upside down for a while !! The real body men need to get in here and comment !! Doug
  13. A minor technicality: SN95 was '94-04 (I had 3 of them) S197 was '05-14 (also had 1 of these) This was one of the biggest sites for 05-14 content: The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums Doug
  14. They are not specific to the fuel line, but they show bits. Doug
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