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Everything posted by miketyler

  1. Been there, done that. For those wanting to avoid the fiberglass you can buy the late model scoop. It is nearly identical to original but does have wrinkle finish that you may need to strip. I was going to go this route and finally found a deal on an original. Also you can buy the adapter ring from the Aussies to adapt your air cleaner to accept the midplate. All very doable.
  2. sorry I cleared messages but mailbox wasn't full? What do you have left?
  3. "AC box" typically is referred to as the evaporator case - the fiberglass box behind the dash that houses both the evaporator and heater cores. Package tray is a general term that applies to the interior panel that goes between the top of the rear seat and the back glass. These tend to be a popular area to install speakers on fixed seat cars. I only have one rear light assy.
  4. I had bought the expensive Scott Drake stainless plates and while they were nice and heavy they were too much bling for my build. They were like polished nickel finish, different than chrome if you know your metal finishes. They seemed to fit ok. I sold them and bought a set of the cheaper aluminum ones. My only gripe was the stamping for the Ford logo plate. It was a bit soft and was a little smaller than it needed to be. Because of this the plates didn't nest down in it well. I remedied this by taking the plate and very lightly broke the edges of the plate upward like a bowl. They fit great and look more like original fit. Doubt you could tell anything had been done unless you looked very close
  5. I have an AC box, rear package tray and a taillight assy
  6. Wow - what a great way to bond and build memories...look forward to the journey.
  7. 1/2" is plenty...you should see what my clearances are. And you can trim springs though not many do it today. Some of the old school drag racers did it.
  8. This appears to be working now since I posted that note. Pretty odd.
  9. Not sure if this was posted already or may be part of the general search function being dead but the canned searches such as "new content" button in upper RH corner always returns "no new content". Also get the same result using the New Content quick search bar on left when there is plenty of activity going on since my last visit. As a result I have to load forums page and browse each forum individually for newest topics.
  10. Definitely different. The pads might interchange but functionally the 70 has the locking disk for the locking column and 69 does not.
  11. Here's a polished unit for $160 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polished-Aluminum-Sanden-508-AC-12V-Air-Compressor-V-Belt-Pulley-2-Groove-/351291701325?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51ca9df84d&vxp=mtr
  12. I thought you were being sarcastic since my car is one of the lowest, if not the lowest on the site. :) Yes, the kit included stainless flex lines. I had to fab up retainer brackets to secure the inboard end to the frame rail.
  13. Yeah, I really need to do something about that. It is a cool look but I miss the ride quality of stock height. I have been discussing this in another thread and plan to focus on improving that next. The car will be coming up at least an inch or more, just not sure how I am going to do it. I had a chance to look at the brakes again yesterday. I installed the spacers and now the wheels clear the calipers. However, i have a mild tire rub on DS when turning. I can clear this where it will be ok but when I raise the car back up it should clear it further. I tested the brake booster in a less technical manner by disconnecting the vacuum. It made brake affect so much worse I didn't have to pull it out of the driveway to tell. I am convinced the booster is doing it's job. While I had wheels off I cleaned the brake pad material from the discs and followed SSBC break-in procedure. This seems to have cleared the cosmetic concerns I had on brake pad material sticking to the disc. Looking at the calipers closely I could see all four pucks have moved from their full-in position and all have uniform 3/32" exposed. The SSBC folks agree that the stock MC with 1" dia plunger should provide all needed pressure for the new front discs as well as the SSBC rear discs. My DS pulling issue still exists and becomes more noticeable once brakes have heated up during an aggressive stop. I plan to re-bleed all four later today to see if that improves it. Brake pedal feel is rock hard and firm. I would still like to check pressure at the calipers at some point but will need to get some plumbing fittings to do that. For now the car is safe to drive. I wouldn't describe them as "night and day" difference but I would say they are a little better than OEM discs at this point.
  14. Got my spacers yesterday and temps have warmed up a bit here in DFW this weekend. Hopefully I can make some progress on this today
  15. Good info, thanks. The kit included a MC and adjustable dist block with a pressure gauge. I can use the pressure gauge from it at each wheel to see what pressure I am getting. With the way the OEM discs behaved I wouldnt be surprised if the booster or the dist block are causing my issues. I thought I had read somewhere that more plunger dia would require more foot pressure? I want to make the OEM MC work if I can. Since the included MC has a 1"bore, it makes sense that the OEM MC should be sufficient. I hope the spacer plates dont cause additional issues and should have them Friday. One odd thing that I noticed is that the discs have considerable darkening in the contact areas. The rotors had a bright finish on them until the first drive and it doesnt wipe off with brake cleaner. The discs were marked left and right and I made sure they were placed on the correct side. I tried to contact SSBC yesterday and sat on hold for over 30 mins before I had to drop.
  16. No, I didnt wipe them down but they were very clean. I still have the original OEM MC and brake booster installed.
  17. Just had some random images added to my post mins ago: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52854-differences-in-69-and-70-drum-brake-spindles/?p=159751
  18. And of course the above pictures were not added by me. Please ignore.
  19. I only took the car out for a short 10 min test drive when I finished up last night. Although the calipers cleared the wheels on jacks, it seems both wheels are touching them when driving. The left side even developed a thump that got worse as the brakes heated up. I have ordered 1/8" spacers that I hope will remedy that. The brake pedal is nice and firm sitting on jackstands. When I am driving, its almost like I dont have any brake booster affect. Pedal does not go to the floor. My OEM discs stopped the car better but I always thought should have been more affective. Maybe I should vacuum test the booster first? Also noticed a tedancy to pull to the drivers side when brakes are applied. The SSBC guide advises that under such a condtion the pulling side is doing its job and its the other side that needs to be focused on.I'll start with rebleeding it. The A120-3 kit is for a non power assist brake cars and includes a non power MC and an adjustable prop valve. As we discussed previous I really was hoping to keep all my stock plumbing and distribution block.
  20. I got the brakes installed and first drive wasnt a stellar event. The calipers actuall rub on my 17 Torque Thrust II's. The funny thing is they are close but they clear when the car is on jacks.I will probably need to run a 1/8" spacer to clear this and am unsure what that will do to my fender lip clearance. Then there's the brake feel....not so great. Maybe I need a larger volume MC? I may try bleeding them again but fluid was coming thru pretty clean. How can I be sure its a MC volume issue? The MC that came with the kit has a 1" plunger BTW.
  21. They will come in handy if you decide to upgrade your brakes.
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