Jump to content

maxum96

Members
  • Content Count

    885
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About maxum96

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 01/01/1967

Converted

  • Location
    N. Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I run Accufab headers with my AFR 205's on a 393W. I added 3 bolt collector rings and had them ceramic coated.
  2. Your car, do what you want. I'm going to put 70 Boss 302 hockey stick stripes on my car even though it's not a Boss. Personally, I like the 1969 Boss 302 stripes with or without the Boss 302 in it. If I had a 1969, I'd use the 69 stripes.
  3. If you're talking about the interior trap door panels, that's not what I'm looking for. These are the structural steel components that the interior panels cover. And I have checked ebay. But thanks for the suggestion.
  4. Exactly. I did a 1 piece floorpan and didn't have to add any extra bracing.
  5. A 2500 stall converter only stalls that high when you are holding the car still and pushing on the throttle. It will not stall that high during normal driving. I ran a 4000 rpm converter on the street in a C6 years ago. But high stall converters do make more heat period. But they can be run on the street with add on trans coolers. A 2500 stall converter is not that extreme of a stall converter at all.
  6. I'm in need of the two end panels that run from the inner wheel wells up to the rear divider/bulkhead that divides the trunk and back seat area. The bozo that was working on the car before me cut them out for some unknown reason. They're the two vertical panels on either side divider/bulkhead in the photo. Yes, I know you can buy new reproduction ones. But you have the buy the entire assembly and it would cost $350 when all I need are the two panels that are spot welded on. So if anyone has got a rusted/wrecked 69 or 70 fastback they're parting out, please drop me a pm. I'm working my rear quarters, wheel wells and trunk area and need these panels. Thanks
  7. I run a TKO with 4.11 gears with a 28" tall tire. At 60mph I'm turning around 2200 rpm. Nothing like running a modern OD transmission in a vintage muscle car.
  8. Another vote on Dan at Chockostang. I've talked with him on the phone over a brake issue. Extremely helpful and friendly. Sold me some parts at a very reasonable price.
  9. Mine is directly behind the rear end center section. As others have mentioned, put it near the tank and level to or below the level of the tank outlet. And sorry, no pictures right now as my car is torn down at the moment.
  10. Thanks. Cost me less than $25 to build (1" square tubing and casters from Harbor Freight). I used it as an excuse to teach my son in law to weld. I use my motorcycle jack to lift the rear end in and out of the cradle. That's why the rear is so open.
  11. If you have the money to spend, I would suggest either a built up C4 or stock C6 with a Gear Vendors overdrive unit.
  12. If you you have to have a nodular 9" 3rd member, get the Strange Pro Nodular version. It looks almost identical to the Ford N case and it's much beefier. This is what I run with a Daytona pinion support. Personally I feel it's not worth it to spend the money for an original N case unless you were needing it for an accurate restoration. The originals are all over 40 years old and probably been beat on in their lives. The Strange N case is much stronger than the originals ever were. Notice how much thicker the area around the pinion support bearing is with the Strange case? Also the carrier bearing area is thicker with much thicker caps. Plus metallurgy is better today than 50 years ago. Strange N case http://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-n1905 Ford N case My rear end
×
×
  • Create New...