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Everything posted by danno

  1. I have mine set to about 18 degrees. As long as it does not ping when accelerating or run too hot, I understand 18 degrees is allowable.
  2. For the factory system, there is a spacer plate between the booster and the firewall. It adds 3/4 of an inch to it. Maybe you could modify this to reduce it? But then you need to reduce the pedal throw lever also, which is easy with an adjustment screw. It looks like you have an aftermarket booster, and maybe that is the problem. The original boosters might have a lower diameter, it is 7.3 inches. They were also longer, so the master cylinder was further away from the firewall. Check the diameter on your booster.
  3. Maybe a small C clamp in one side to keep it from spinning, and then get a sharp point under the end without the clamp on it. I have done it several times, but do not remember how I did it. Maybe there is a show on youtube that describes a hidden method?
  4. There are many bluetooth receivers available, some are under $10. I have mine hooked up to my Factory AM/FM radio, so I click a switch and it changes from AM/Fm to bluetooth receiver. That way the volume and tone knobs work for the sound coming from my phone, through the radio, and to the speakers. I did this modification on a 1973 Ford factory radio so I have the original appearance. I can do it for anyone else who is interested.
  5. Where is this used? I am not sure what you are referring to.
  6. The real answer to your original question depends on what the underside it like now and where you live. I bought my 69 in 1983 in Dallas and drove it to Minneapolis. I only drive it in months of the year without an "r" in the spelling: May, June July August. I have never touched the underside, and I would swear it has not changed in driving 100,000 miles for almost 40 years. Rust hides quite well, so it is possible I do not see it, but nothing has shown up. So just perhaps, in your case, doing nothing is the answer??? I'm just sayin....
  7. Maybe wrap the column with teflon tape to take up the difference? Not the stuff plumbers use, they make it for sticking to electrical things. This is kind of spendy, but maybe something like it would work? Wrap it a few times? You want something that is not going to squeeze down and compress under pressure. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/63-3-4-X36YD/1819363 It is coincidental that there are 2 small holes in the outer shaft the same distance apart. The are almost too small to be injection points, and the holes are at the top end.
  8. "life is about going downhill fast" ... as stated by Billy Kidd
  9. That is ironic, I used a screwinator to generate static on the alley cat. Everyone knows a Hensley will not work for that, you can harm the pussycat.
  10. As the windshield is the same between a coupe and convertible, I would guess the headroom is the same. The only gain in headroom would come from the fact that there is no headliner in a convertible. So I would guess you have maybe an inch more in a vert. I know others facing this issue have moved the seat back further and lower.
  11. Come on Coulombs? Although what you said is true, I only knew of coulombs in college courses on capacitance. The 3 of us on this post are probably the only 3 people in the forum who know what you are referring to.
  12. There is probably a reason why they have an 18 gauge wire internally. That small section of small wire is the fusable link. It is supposed to blow before the wire burns up. Maybe newer solenoids have a larger connection to the I terminal, and that is why we are now burning up the wires instead of the fusable link inside the solenoid>>>
  13. Perhaps use a metric nut that is just a bit larger, and use them that have locking nylon inserts. But Aslanefe had a good idea, that should work better than my hairbrain idea...
  14. ... and I feel like I got a deal for a $2 bottle of wine at Trader Joes. Two buck Chuck. Oh well, bad wine... had to toss it.
  15. These are cheap enough and easy to install.... you could throw a cheap one on for now, and work on getting the correct one later.
  16. Shelby could have put their own name on one of the standard Bendix regulators, but that would be the only difference ( if one exists). You can use any standard voltage regulator. If you have a concours Shelby, the auto shop could be waiting on an original Ford regulator?
  17. PTC.. Positive Temperature Coefficient.... as more current flows through it, the temperature increases, and as the temp increases, the resistance increases. But you probably know this. We use them in electronics circuits all the time. They are very common parts.
  18. I understand exactly what you are describbling. The wire continues to the underdash harness, ( at least it does in a 69/70) so the section in that also probably overheated? If my car was not in winter storage, I would measure what the current actually is in this wire. Perhaps a fusable link would be a good idea? The purpose of the wire is to provide a higher voltage during the starting process, but I really wonder if it is necessary any more? Maybe it helps to start the car when it is zero degrees and the battery is weak, but those situations never occur to a classic car owner.
  19. This forum has a lot of power, and mentioning it should make a difference. You might also mention your displeasure is being discussed on vintagemustang.com, the other forum with a lot of followers. They should have better customer service. In general, these products from suppliers like this all fit correctly. I am wondering if something is unique about your motor that you are not aware of? Maybe you do not have the exact motor or parts that they are expecting to fit to? Be patient with them, and keep trying. Good luck getting it resolved.
  20. I did the converion of a 69 underdash and underhood harnesses from a non-tach to a tach harness. I know there are a lot of details that need to be completed.
  21. OK, now I understand. I would guess the e-clip was missing. I might have one in the box I just sent you.
  22. From what I understand, the conversion can be made. But for a concours job, it will probably be a challange.
  23. What in particular are you concernd with? I assume the wing nut is just on to hold it in place for shipping.
  24. come on, "cold weather"? You have no idea of cold weather. I am in Minneapolis. I need to chip the ice off the bathtub before I can take a shower. As I have a 69 Vert myself, I really appreciate others who value the worth. You are certianly putting a tremendous amount of work into this. I bought mine almost 40 years ago in Dallas, so I did not need all the work you did. I certainly would not have been able to put that amount of work into a project as you have. Great job! Put your son to work on it, he should enjoy tinkering with this stuff. I know I did when I worked with my Grandfather in the 1970 era. By the way, my car was originally the factory Green color, like yours. I changed it to the Factory Candy Red. Now that I see what the green can do , I almost regret it. Maybe some year I will return to green? Danno
  25. Randy, is there any difference between the underdash harness of 69 to 70? Do they use different connectors for the ignition switch? I thought there was a difference in under hood harness, but I am not sure about that either. I know the side lights and headlights are different, which is why maybe the underhood is different. Robster, can you describe the problem you are trying to solve.
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