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danno

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danno last won the day on December 21 2020

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About danno

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/30/1954

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  • Location
    Minneapolis
  • Occupation
    Electronics Design Engineer

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  1. The real answer to your original question depends on what the underside it like now and where you live. I bought my 69 in 1983 in Dallas and drove it to Minneapolis. I only drive it in months of the year without an "r" in the spelling: May, June July August. I have never touched the underside, and I would swear it has not changed in driving 100,000 miles for almost 40 years. Rust hides quite well, so it is possible I do not see it, but nothing has shown up. So just perhaps, in your case, doing nothing is the answer??? I'm just sayin....
  2. Maybe wrap the column with teflon tape to take up the difference? Not the stuff plumbers use, they make it for sticking to electrical things. This is kind of spendy, but maybe something like it would work? Wrap it a few times? You want something that is not going to squeeze down and compress under pressure. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/63-3-4-X36YD/1819363 It is coincidental that there are 2 small holes in the outer shaft the same distance apart. The are almost too small to be injection points, and the holes are at the top end.
  3. "life is about going downhill fast" ... as stated by Billy Kidd
  4. That is ironic, I used a screwinator to generate static on the alley cat. Everyone knows a Hensley will not work for that, you can harm the pussycat.
  5. As the windshield is the same between a coupe and convertible, I would guess the headroom is the same. The only gain in headroom would come from the fact that there is no headliner in a convertible. So I would guess you have maybe an inch more in a vert. I know others facing this issue have moved the seat back further and lower.
  6. Come on Coulombs? Although what you said is true, I only knew of coulombs in college courses on capacitance. The 3 of us on this post are probably the only 3 people in the forum who know what you are referring to.
  7. There is probably a reason why they have an 18 gauge wire internally. That small section of small wire is the fusable link. It is supposed to blow before the wire burns up. Maybe newer solenoids have a larger connection to the I terminal, and that is why we are now burning up the wires instead of the fusable link inside the solenoid>>>
  8. Perhaps use a metric nut that is just a bit larger, and use them that have locking nylon inserts. But Aslanefe had a good idea, that should work better than my hairbrain idea...
  9. ... and I feel like I got a deal for a $2 bottle of wine at Trader Joes. Two buck Chuck. Oh well, bad wine... had to toss it.
  10. These are cheap enough and easy to install.... you could throw a cheap one on for now, and work on getting the correct one later.
  11. Shelby could have put their own name on one of the standard Bendix regulators, but that would be the only difference ( if one exists). You can use any standard voltage regulator. If you have a concours Shelby, the auto shop could be waiting on an original Ford regulator?
  12. PTC.. Positive Temperature Coefficient.... as more current flows through it, the temperature increases, and as the temp increases, the resistance increases. But you probably know this. We use them in electronics circuits all the time. They are very common parts.
  13. I understand exactly what you are describbling. The wire continues to the underdash harness, ( at least it does in a 69/70) so the section in that also probably overheated? If my car was not in winter storage, I would measure what the current actually is in this wire. Perhaps a fusable link would be a good idea? The purpose of the wire is to provide a higher voltage during the starting process, but I really wonder if it is necessary any more? Maybe it helps to start the car when it is zero degrees and the battery is weak, but those situations never occur to a classic car owner.
  14. This forum has a lot of power, and mentioning it should make a difference. You might also mention your displeasure is being discussed on vintagemustang.com, the other forum with a lot of followers. They should have better customer service. In general, these products from suppliers like this all fit correctly. I am wondering if something is unique about your motor that you are not aware of? Maybe you do not have the exact motor or parts that they are expecting to fit to? Be patient with them, and keep trying. Good luck getting it resolved.
  15. I did the converion of a 69 underdash and underhood harnesses from a non-tach to a tach harness. I know there are a lot of details that need to be completed.
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