Len69Coupe

Front 17X8 245/45 0° offset 
Rear 17X9.5 275/40 0° offset
Stock suspension with no rubbing anywhere. Edit: I did roll the fenders.
Got it back on the road last Friday after a 9 year resto.

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

Our cars were designed for 14" and 15" rims and in my opinion it's hard to make modern rims look "right" on our cars. The wheel wells and rocker height aren't "right" for bigger wheels. Len69Coupe and Rich Ackerman pulled it off really well.

Front 17X8 245/45 0° offset 
Rear 17X9.5 275/40 0° offset
Stock suspension with no rubbing anywhere. Edit: I did roll the fenders.
Got it back on the road last Friday after a 9 year resto.

Front 17X8 245/45 0° offset 
Rear 17X9.5 275/40 0° offset
Stock suspension with no rubbing anywhere. Edit: I did roll the fenders.
Got it back on the road last Friday after a 9 year resto.

Front 17X8 245/45 0° offset 
Rear 17X9.5 275/40 0° offset
Stock suspension with no rubbing anywhere. Edit: I did roll the fenders.
Got it back on the road last Friday after a 9 year resto.

I ended up getting a new spacer plate that is 1/2". The old one was 1", so I should have plenty of room between the intake and the hood now. 
Vicfreg, you are correct, with no spacer the intake would hit the left side valve cover.
Thanks for everyone's help.

The links I provided describe a change in angles to address harmonics and vibration. Installed hight was the same.

Some metallic in my paint. Removed old engine, painted engine bay/chassis and installed the new engine. Then we painted the car with fenders, doors and hood installed. Trunk was not installed, but you can't tell any difference. 
I will say the edges of the doors and fenders were really hard to get the coverage they needed. I went back and touched them up after.

Very nice, @Len69Coupe congrats on the completion.
Hoping to get mine back on the road again. awaiting an engine to be delivered.

Yes it sounds like a short, perhaps somewhere in the headlight circuit. The circuit breakers in the light switch are auto-reset. When they cool down they turn on again. See how it reacts with high beams on. Also, I have heard of the dimmer switch wires shorting to the floor. I believe there is supposed to be an insulator under it. Below is part of the schematic, which is down in the "How To's" section. There is also the 30+ page Ford wire diagram down there if you need it. Schematics simplify the circuit and show you how it works, while wire diagrams show you how the car is actually wired with all the plugs, wire colors, etc. This is for Exterior lights. There is another page for the interior lights. Everything above the red line is the headlight circuit. If that doesn't do it, start disconnecting wires one at a time until it stops, then you'll have to follow that wire until you find the short. Since your tail lights don't work either, that involves both circuit breakers, and they should trip independently. It could be that it's such a solid short that it drags the voltage down coming into the light switch terminal B before the breaker trips. You need to find this thing before it melts some wires. I believe there are over 40 light bulbs on our cars, so this could take some digging. If you get stumped, tell us what you did and all the details- everything is a symptom. 
 

I believe there is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch, and it keeps resetting. Might be a short somewhere or a bad headlight switch. Wait for Randy or Mach1driver to chime in.

I believe the turn signal switch in the steering column is also part of the circuit. Maybe that?

Here's how mine turned out. Don't know if it's correct because I could never find a photo anywhere to work from. PIA there is nothing to work off of.

Here's how mine turned out. Don't know if it's correct because I could never find a photo anywhere to work from. PIA there is nothing to work off of.

Len, there are different ways/tools/gauges used to do alignment and they will all have different numbers for same color but give the same result; so It is difficult to give a paint by numbers version without knowing which tools/gauges you have. You do not need to buy a special gauge (like the one use on the link above) unless you need to adjust caster which is not necessary in your case just to drive to an alignment shop (unless the shop is a few counties over). Just search for "how to adjust camber with a digital angle finder (or level)" and "how to adjust toe with a tape measure". Then you will see many ways and find one that you can accomplish with the gauges/tools you already have or by only buying a cheap angle finder.
On a side note, you even don't need a special gauge to align caster.

Len I hadn't done an alignment before the Mustang either. If you can follow directions and measure, you're qualified. 

Thanks RPM. I'll check out the link.
Aslanfe, thanks for the suggestion. I have never done any kind of an alignment, so I need the paint by number version, lol.
Thanks Mach1 Driver, I definitely need the pics.

unfortunately the photos are gone...however the bangshift article has pics

İf you want a quick alignment just to drive to a shop, get an angle finder and align the camber on a level surface. Then using a tape measure, align the toe using measurements from front and rear of the front tires (you can measure from the grooves on the tire). Don't worry about caster (which takes longer and requires kind of specialized measuring devices to align) and let the shop deal with it.

Huskinhano on Mustang Steve has an excellent how to article that will get you spot on. After reading his article years ago I decided to give it a try myself. Works wonderful, and is dead steady at 130.
https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=7635

The front end overlaps on top of the roof weatherstrip on the A pillar and presses on the "wedge" section at the end of the roof weatherstrip when the door is closed.

Those tabs line up/hold the edge of weather strip the way they are, they do not get bent over. 

Yes the windlace that is on the quarter post is different. 

As they were with your cowl panel hardware, they go under the cowl panel where the rubber bumps are at both ends to level the cowl with fender. Put them between cowl panel and cowl before you tighten the rubber bumper screw (screw goes through the opening of shim). My 69 Grande have those to align the cowl panel.