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Everything posted by Len69Coupe

  1. Here is an article on how to replace the apron: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0903_replace_ford_mustang_inner_fender_apron/index.html[url=http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0903_replace_ford_mustang_inner_fender_apron/index.html][/url]
  2. I got the straight one, purely by luck, lol. Thanks!
  3. Thanks guys! Appreciate the info and photo.
  4. Hey Tom, I bought it used off EBAY and it came with the remote mirror bezel. I'm going to paint the mirror the same color as the car. I thought about taking the easy way out and painting it black, but I think it would look better the same color as the car. I had to put a new mirror in it and that was $20, but the guy I bought it from covered that. I didn't think I was very clear in my original question. If you look close at the link there is a bracket that mounts to the back of the bezel with 2 bolts. That is the part I'm asking about where it mounts. So there is a cutout in the door that it bolts to? So it would go through the door panel and the door? It will probably make a lot more sense when I remove the door panel. Thanks for the help. http://johnsmustang.com/Catalog/4738/
  5. I bought a sport mirror with remote for the drivers side. In all the photos of the door I can find it looks like the remote is mounted straight up from the window crank. Is that right? I never l found a really good pic though. Also, I have a standard interior, does the mounting bolts go through just the door panel, or through the panel and the door? Hope that makes sense.
  6. Sure thing! Haven't seen any patches for the fenders, but Ill keep my eye out.
  7. Mustangs Unlimited has them. Page 185 in their catalog if my link doesn't work. http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/EM_CatalogSite/00185.htm
  8. I'm looking for one for just the drivers side door if anyone has one.
  9. Not sure what holes either. I went out and test fitted mine again. If I went shortest in the front to longest in the back it would be natural/red/red/white, but it seems to fit a lot better natural/red/white/red. I was hoping someone on here had the answer. I guess I will have to try another Mustang forum.
  10. Do you mean where the sun visor bracket goes? It holds up the inside ends of the sun visors. http://johnsmustang.com/Catalog/4103/
  11. Yes I am. I have 2 red, 1 white and 1 with no color. I was standing there when the guy removed them from the donor car. He started marking them with a paint pen after he removed 2 of them, but I think he got them backwards. Just not sure though that's why I need to know too.
  12. Bumping to the top since I need to know also.:whistling:
  13. I finally fixed my turn signals. I was at my wits end and was ready to run a new wire, but I thought let me go back and check the basics. When I bought the car first thing I did was check all the fuses and all were good. Having power to the switch also made me think all was fine with them. I ended up removing the fuse for the turn signals and using a small brush scrubed the contacts in the fuse box and sprayed it all out with electrical cleaner. Reinstalled the fuse and the signals started working:clap: I'm frustrated at the time and money I spent, but pretty happy they are fixed. It gave me a chance to learn all the wiring in the car too:whistling: Now on to the next project. Thanks to everyone for the help!
  14. Are you looking to put the piece on the quarter glass or the door glass? I have to replace one of mine on the door glass and I'm tempted just to get the ones that go on the quarter glass instead of the door glass. I don't see why I couldn't use either one, I've seen it both ways on 69's.
  15. Mine is a manual and the handle is right above the pedal. You have to have your palm facing down or the pedal will hit your hand. Not sure if it's right, but I'm guessing it's stock.
  16. It's not so hot that I can't hold it in my hand, just worrisome. The resistor wire runs to the quick disconnect (QD) under the hood. On the ignition side of the QD it's held together with a butt connector about 3 inches from the QD. On the coil side the last 12 inches has been replaced and is held together with a butt connector, but the QD side doesn't get warm at all. Makes sense though since that isn't a resistor wire on the coil side. I'm going to reinstall some things tomorrow so I can fire it up and see what the pink wire does whiel the engine is running. I'm also going to measure the current at the coil and see what I have. I ordered the pro wiring diagram yesterday. Hopefully it will shed some light where the other version lacks.
  17. Thanks Raven, I will look at the bulbs to see if they individual grounds. Any ideas on why the resistor wire to the coil is getting hot? I've checked and nothing that I see is wired wrong, on that part of the car anyway, lol. Would a bad coil make the wire draw to much current making it hot? The car runs with no problems, so I'm just taking a stab at that. Another thought I had was I've been feeling this wire with the ignition on and the car not running. I'm going to reinstall the gauges and run the car to see if the wire gets hot while running. I know the pink wire provides power and the brown wire provides power, but at different points in the start/run process.
  18. I unwrapped the harness tape that covered the pink wire portion above the radio and found a black wire that comes from the gauge connector not connected to anything. The black wire comes out of the same hole as a purple wire on the gauge connector and is labled on the schematic as "constant". If I read the schematic correctly the black wire is the "blind circuit" on the schematic. What in the world is a blind circuit? The purple and black wires read 11.10 with ignition off and 11.50 with the ignition on.
  19. The pink wire is a thickly insulated wire that has about the same amount of actual wire as 16 ga wire. It also doesn't have copper wire, it's a silver wire. At some point the PO used a butt connector and replaced the last 12 inches of wire going into coil with regular 16 or 18 gauge wire. I thought maybe the different type wire was the cause, but the wire on that side (coil side) of the quick-disconnect doesn't get warm at all. If it was standard wire I would try to replace it, but since it's "resistance" wire I'm not sure if it would screw something up.
  20. Thanks for the info. The wifey had a disc removed from her neck the other day and taking care of her has really cut into my troubleshooting time, lol! She's getting better, so enough of her and back to the Mustang. lol! I was able to remove the firewall connector and fix a couple of the wires. There was a green/black wire that ran to the headlights that was bare on one side. I also found a broken wire (black) going to the quick disconnect for the right front parking light. Parking light still worked though. Kinda of weird. But, this still has done nothing for my original problem of the turn signals not working. Brief recap - replaced switch, no luck. Blue wire that has power coming into the switch has power until I turn the turn signal on, then power drops off. The blue wire is orange/yellow on the other side of the flasher and comes from a common point. All other items that run on the common point seem to work fine. Any ideas where I should go from here? Another issue I noticed is that there is a pink wiring coming from the ignition switch that goes to the coil and and the starter relay. With the ignition on this wire is getting pretty hot. Not so hot I can't touch it though. I read this is a resistance wire, does that mean it should get hot?
  21. I have some bare wires very near the square firewall connector next to the master cylinder. One of them (brown wire) goes from there to the starter relay and is giving me high resistance. Does this connector just disconnect from the wall or do I need to remove something on the inside fo the car? Can I replace the wires coming out of it? It's crazy how many bare/rough/stripped wires I'm finding on this car. On another note, my washer pump problem, was solved with a new wiper switch:clap: Still fighting the inop turn signal problem though. Check out the photo from when I first brought the car home. I was troubleshooting wires and decided to eliminate the "wires to nowhere". Well, I got to looking at the silver box (circled) on the side and after some wire tie cutting and exploring found that this box did absolutely nothing. The 2 harnesses coming from it were plugged into each other. It was not plugged into anything on the car. WTF! I removed it and had a bit of a laugh. I know I had one of those on an old Ford truck. I think it was some type of ignition box. Why it was on the Mustang??? I will never know :scared:
  22. I had a friend over today who is fairly good with wiring. He didn't have time for in-depth troubleshooting, but we did notice something else today. The wiring harness above the radio gets pretty warm when the ignition is warm, but the others stay cool. This indicates a short right? If so, would I expect to find the short in that wire bundle? Both the blue and orange/white wire that connect to the flasher run through that harness. BTW, I installed a new flasher just to be sure with no luck.
  23. Yep, 100%. Thanks Tom, you've been a big help.
  24. Geez these electrical problems are killing me. I replaced the switch and the turn signals still don't work. The blue wire in the connector powers the turn signals and I have power there until I turn on the turn signal, then I lose power. If I jump the red/white (emergency flashers) wire into the blue wire the signals work no problem. I have swapped the emergency flasher with the turn signal flasher with no luck. They both have the same part number #552 and Advance Auto lists both emergency and turn signal as 552, is this correct? Also, in the diagram the red/white wire is black/red, but mine is white/red. Is it normal for Ford to change the wire colors different than the diagram? There is a junction in the diagram that appears to be where the turn signal gets its power, but I can't find that junction. It appears by looking at the actual wires that the turn signals get it's power from the blue wire that runs to the flasher and comes out the other side orange. This orange wire is connected to a junction that has 4 or 5 wires coming out of it (one of those coming from the washer switch which could be related to my washer pump not working). Any ideas? This is getting on my last nerve:surrender:
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