Len69Coupe

OK. Thanks for that. I didn't even think of it slipping off. That would be very bad :)

Mice is a concern, but I was told by the storage people that they keep everything well baited. Just to cover my butt I think I'll get the glue traps. I'm on a couple RV Forums and people say the moth balls don't work. Most of them recommend peppermint oil on a sponge or cotton ball. It just doesn't last very long. I had 4 of the wheel dollies and absolutely loved them. Not thinking, which happens more than it should, I sold them to a buddy when I finished getting the car back together. So, is it ok to jack up the front using the cross member? I do have a negative battery disconnect; I will be using that. Thanks guys.

Well, it's finally here. I'm retiring in Jun and our house goes on the market next week. We've sold most of our stuff and the rest will go in storage, including the Mustang. We have a Motorhome and plan to travel the country for a few years. The Mustang will be in a 10X20 storage unit. Since the Mustang will be in storage for most of the year, anyone have tips for this? I've read to inflate the tires to max PSI or put it on jacks. Probably won't be able to put it on jacks. I'll treat the fuel with Sta Bil and make sure the tank is full as well. I'm thinking a lightweight car cover just to keep the dust off. Anything I'm missing? I want to jack up the front and push it closer to the wall to save some room. Is it safe to jack up the front by the large bar (crossmember?)? Not the sway bar.

Thanks. I was missing my daily read.

Looks like you're missing the screw in the top of the windlace. Something else doesn't look right. Looks like you don't have the top of the panel edge slid down into the window channel. That should bring the panel tighter to the windlace.

Just the Hurst shift handle. Several posts I read recommended it. I think due to its length and offset. I am happy with the one I bought from CJ's though. The bonus was I won the CJ Pony Transformation Challenge on Fakebook and got a $30 gift card from them. So the shifter handle was almost free. Before I installed the T5 I cut out about an inch of the forward part of the shifter hole. I have no problem changing the shift handles. The biggest PIA is the chrome ring that the rubber shift boot that holds down.

I put a T5 in my 69 with this shifter Summit Racing SUM-555-7353-SR Summit Racing™ Billet Aluminum Short Throw Mustang Shifters | Summit Racing 5th gear was definitely a reach. So I bought this one. UPR 1016-01 Mustang Shifter Handle Trick Stick Manual Billet Satin 1983-2004 (cjponyparts.com) It allows you to angle the shifter handle back. It's better, but I wish it was a couple inches longer. I might have bought a Hurst shifter if it wasn't absurdly priced.

I ended up getting a new spacer plate that is 1/2". The old one was 1", so I should have plenty of room between the intake and the hood now. Vicfreg, you are correct, with no spacer the intake would hit the left side valve cover. Thanks for everyone's help.

OK, I misunderstood the links then. I thought it was showing a different hole in the mounts that would lower the engine. So that's off the table. I sure don't want to open a can of worms with driveline vibrations and other issues. Simplest fix at this point is removing the one-inch intake spacer. Hopefully that won't cause clearance issues elsewhere. I would try different bolts, but the hood support would still be hitting the air filter tube on the right side. Thanks everyone :)

Thanks. I was wondering about driveline angles also. Easiest option at this point is to remove the spacer and see how everything fits.

Maybe what I read was about Fox bodies. The links jmlay posted do say that the convertibles and Big Blocks had a different mount that lowered the engine. That's if I'm reading that information correctly.

Thanks jmlay. So just so I understand this, the Convertible mounts are the same as the all 67 and 68-70 Big Block mounts? So how far will these mounts drop the engine? Gee whiz question for added points; why did the Convertible need a lowered engine?

So it turns out my hood is contacting my engine in 3 places. The worse being the front intake bolt, which has left a slight indention on my hood from contact. I could remove the intake spacer and that would fix all 3 issues, but could cause clearance issues elsewhere. Trying to get answer on removing the spacer is kind of like asking which oil is best, you get 50 different answers on if it really does anything. I thought I read that convertible motor mounts are a little lower. I've searched and I can't find anything that says there is a difference in motor mounts, other than small block and big block mounts. Unless I'm missing something I can't find any site that breaks out the convertible mounts from other mounts. Anyone know about the convertible motor mounts? I have seen the adjustable motor mounts offered and they could be an option. I just hate to spend that much on motor mounts. Last option would be to grind the intake bolt down some to see if it would clear. The other 2 spots hit the supports on the hood and could possibly be clearanced with a BFH. I'd hate to do that and it not turn out right.

Some metallic in my paint. Removed old engine, painted engine bay/chassis and installed the new engine. Then we painted the car with fenders, doors and hood installed. Trunk was not installed, but you can't tell any difference. I will say the edges of the doors and fenders were really hard to get the coverage they needed. I went back and touched them up after.

Front 17X8 245/45 0° offset Rear 17X9.5 275/40 0° offset Stock suspension with no rubbing anywhere. Edit: I did roll the fenders. Got it back on the road last Friday after a 9 year resto.