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Rcodenewf

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Everything posted by Rcodenewf

  1. Glad u got it figured out Rich. My suspicions were confirmed when i saw the tilt of the engine. Great stuff!
  2. That's the tabs on the passenger side panel insert. Standard interior. The mach1 has a clock there.
  3. I was going to mention that the engine looked tilted way down on the rear. When you level it out with the trans and crossmember you might not have that clearance problem. ..John
  4. That looks good for sure TexasED.! ..John
  5. Just installing a new ford tooling dash. Looking at the passenger side panel there are 2 tabs..one on each side along with of course the 3 screws across the top and 3 across the bottom. I can't recall what i did on my 69 but on the new replacement dash pad there is no where for the left side tab closest to the center to screw onto. On the right there is a small metal tab...no clip that is buried in the rubber/foam. Do all the replacement dashes come this way? Thanks...John
  6. I've also used the stator terminal for years with success. Simple and effective. John
  7. I've had my eye out for a 6R80 for my 47 Merc coupe preferably from a 2015 and up Mustang or F150 2WD .I'm thinking it has to do with obtaining the proper stand alone to control that trans. I could really use the shifter from a mustang or F150 as i certainly modify it to fit. I have an open chassis and floor with basically no interference and can build around it. So if anyone has any connections i'd certainly be interested and i can't wait to follow your posts Thanks..John
  8. Just running into issues with the signals and park lights on a 70. After a search on the forum I understand that you wrote a summary of how the 70 circuit works vs the 69. Would you have access it? Thanks..John

    1. Mach1 Driver

      Mach1 Driver

      John, I have three pages of drawings describing the 70 turn signals. Hopefully these PDFs will be of help, but sometimes a technical discussion of how it works may not help a novice fix the problem, and I don't know your skill level. I wasn't aware that items could be attached here, so I hope it works. It may be better if you could start a Post on the Technical forum and tell us what is going on. The forum has been very quiet lately and a new post could help wake it up. Other people may have the same problem and benefit from the discussion and guys like Midlife could join in and give advice.

      1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 1 (1).pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 2.pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 3.pdf

  9. The owner of this car is asking for bluetooth and cd. So i think the din style is my only option. John
  10. Yep..i hear ya. I told my wife that id rather rebuild an engine than do weatherstrip..lol. Thanks again...John
  11. Just finishing up the 70 convert. Was wondering what the general consensus is as far as " original looking radios" go. The last 70 we did we installed the newer din style. It took some modifying but I did manage to cut/modify the factory bezel and reinforce it from the back and then repaint the whole thing. It blended right in . This time i'm thinking i'll look into the correct looking/fitting radios. I know some of them are crappy as there was one in a 68 that we had two years ago and it was terrible. Can't recall the make..might have been custom auto sound...maybe not. Your thoughts/experiences? thanks...John
  12. Aslanefe: Finally getting back to you. I learned a few new cuss words installing these weatherstrips..lol but I got it done. As TexasED says the tape at increments is a very good idea. What i found out is to not to try to do too much at once. I fastened it at both ends...marked the door and weatherstrip at roughly 1foot intervals...then starting at the rear of the door i did the vertical strip in two steps and then the segments under the door. One has to be very careful not to tug on the weatherstrip as it will certainly want to stretch and misalign your screws on the front of the door. The lower corners were the toughest but in the end it worked out well. A few spots didn't take so i pulled the weatherstrip back, pinned it back with some good 3M body tape and then got in with some fresh glue using a soldering brush ( i bought a whole pack to do this..inexpensive) ...allowed it to cure a few minutes then pressed the weatherstrip back utilizing the tape again. After letting it sit for that evening and overnight , i finally shut the door. I warmed the weatherstrip..especially the ends..with a heat gun and this allowed the door to lock in further on the latch. I left them there. Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully i can help someone out with other issues they're having with their stang. Best regards, John
  13. Aslanfe.. yep..a few days won't hurt me to wait. Thanks John
  14. Thanks for the response aslanefe: Are you saying you glued both sides of the 90 on the vertical pieces..seems hard to do as when i tried it one side pulled away while i tried holding it to the other side of the 90? unilec: yep.i wiped it down with acetone to remove that release agent. John
  15. Will do...thanks. John So...the one pic shows where the weatherstrip sits..in that angled portion. The 2nd pic shows when i hold the flat side of the weatherstrip to the one side, the other side opens up. The 3rd pic shows when i hold the weatherstrip flat against the area by the lock the other side opens up. It's like the original weatherstrip might not have had a perfect 90 degree angle to the two flats that glue to the door. This is the original 70 door and clearly you can see that the angle where the weather strip goes is greater than 90 degrees..it's wider. Wondering if anyone has run into this. thanks..John
  16. Working on this 70 convert and having issues with installing the door weatherstrip. The weatherstrip is a Carpenter product and looks nice enough. Issue is this: The weatherstrip has basically two sides that are at a 90 degree angle to each other where it contacts the door.. The problem is where it sits on the door , the door isn't a 90 degree angle..it's a much wider angle as one side 'leans back' more than the other. If you glue both sides of the weatherstrip then one side sticks and then pulls off while the other gets pressed and vise versa....had the vertical portion of the door done and had to remove it...remove the weatherstrip adhesive and now ready to put it back on again but was wondering if in fact i should just glue one side of the angle and not the other??? Anyone run into this? Why couldn't Ford make push in pins in their weatherstrip similar to GM and no issues. lol. Thanks...John
  17. How about the steering wheel? thanks..John
  18. Vic. I have a spare top mechanism here belong to a friend. I'm sure i can send you those bolts to get you over the hump and complete your top. You can send yours back if / when you locate them. If that works for you? Let me know... Regards..John
  19. Looking great Northernstang. What rear disc setup did you use? John
  20. Both great ideas. Kris the inner pillar mouldings on this car will be black as well. That might work. Raven: I had initially contemplated doing the moulding in a silver or light argent colour. There are a few pits in the brackets but for the most part i should be able to polish most of them out if i go that route. I guess if i go the black or silver route i can always have that piece powdercoated as we get a lot of it done through my son's business. Thanks guys, ...John
  21. Just seeing what you guys have done to these two pieces for refinishing. The first is the moulding that goes above the windshield on the inside. The rearview mirror attaches to it and it connects at both to the sunvisor brackets. It was rusty when i removed it..it cleans up like stainless but isn't. Not sure if i should paint it and with what. Second photo is the sunvisor brackets ..these appear to be potmetal or aluminum. Just looking for ideas. thanks..John
  22. I got it up to @ 5 degrees Dave and up to now i have lived with that. Minor tremble between 60-70 and then it disappears...still annoying though. I did purchase the low profile covers for mine but haven't installed them yet as it entails removing the trans and mounting it in a mill to mill the surfaces down to the required gradual incline. That will let the tailshaft go up further with the covers not hitting on the passenger side which was the case (pardon the pun) with my interference issue. My plan is to do that at the same time im building a stroker 428 for it. MD now sells a streamlined case as i mentioned and after all the issues i had i think everyone should purchase those trannys with the mod already done or go to that new TKO that theyre now selling. I guess finally that company got the message that these transmissions are too invasive for the Mustang tunnels. Best regards...John
  23. When i did the TKO 600 swap in my 69 I had to shim up the back of the trans to get the driveline angle acceptable. I called MD and basically they said to put a piece of cardboard over the top of the trans ...jack the trans up til it hit the rib on the floor..then lower it just enough to remove the cardboard and that would be acceptable clearance. Mine did not sit " perfect in the opening" as the opening is not symmetrical. It appeared to sit over towards the passenger side but when you look at it the rib on the floor on the left sweeps away further than the passenger side which is more vertical. That was done purposely at the factory to allow more room for shifter rods etc. Made sense to me. Technically If ordered from MD you should order the TKO with the 'low profile' covers..that way you can get the trans up further in the tunnel without hitting anything. And the covers hitting on the right side was my problem. One other note..not sure what shifter you got with that trans but i ordered the shifter with a 1" offset to the left and rear and that put the shifter in the center of the opening to match the console. Food for thought. Regards..John
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