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69RavenConv

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69RavenConv last won the day on April 11

69RavenConv had the most liked content!

About 69RavenConv

  • Rank
    Call me Phil - Owner since 1974
  • Birthday 02/05/1958

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  • Location
    -NE Ohio

Converted

  • Biography
    1969 Mustang Convertible
  • Location
    NE Ohio
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. Back in college, I remember the machines that punched the cards collected all the little punch-outs in a waste basket inside the cabinet. We called them "beta particles". If you dumped a bunch of beta particles in somebody's car, there wasn't a vacuum cleaner made that could get them all out. Or so I've heard.
  2. Hi Sam, The fuel sender is really just a variable resistor that reads something like 73 ohms on empty and 12 ohms on full. The voltage from your CVR across this resistance determines how far the needle deflects. I hear bending the arm can work , I've read about people using an old tank with water in it to calibrate the bend prior to install. Or you can just use trial and error which doesn't seem like fun to me. I suspect all replacement senders will be less than perfect out of the box. I do believe the sender can be removed with the tank in the car. Some people claim replacing the OEM CVR can help. The OEM is a bimetallic device that delivers a weird pulse width modulated average voltage around 6VDC while modern solid state devices give you a solid 5VDC. Good luck and let us know what you find. Others who know more about this will undoubtedly have more/better advice. I always fill up above a quarter tank and am not too concerned about accuracy beyond "not empty/empty"
  3. May not be the switch after all. Put the new one in and still having trouble. Deduced that the right rear brake light/flasher filament is a problem. Step on the brake (or activate the flasher) and there appears to be excessive current flowing through that conductor, which is routed through the turn signal switch as we know. More to come as I troubleshoot. On the bright side, I got to take my steering wheel off and remove my radio, heater controls and flashers looking for problems. Probably shouldn't have washed the car; everything worked great while it was dirty.
  4. No, it doesn't appear to be an overload/melting problem, although I still run the incandescent 1157 bulbs on the 4 corners (lots of LEDs elsewhere). There appears to be a slight discoloration under the turn signal stalk so I'm thinking my pre-flight checkout may have been aggressive enough to move a rivet too close to ground. I did not have any insulation there but I will on the new install. I've got a new one on order from NPD but of course I missed all the 4th of July sale prices :)
  5. Certainly could be, or Hux's car is a '70. I don't know for sure.
  6. Good advice Midlife and I honestly don't remember if I did that the last time I replaced the switch but I will this time for sure. What is odd is that it has worked flawlessly for about 4 years and I exercised all the signals prior to departing; they worked, then failed . I'm an electrical engineer so I should know what I'm doing (insert laugh track). I'll pull it apart tomorrow and see what smoked.
  7. Washed and polished the 'Stang for a little 4th of July cruise today, checked the brakes and lights, and all systems were go - until I get to the end of my driveway. My wife goes "the steering column is smoking!" At least I was still home so I didn't have to deal with traffic without signals. I'm convinced the Scott Drake unit is crap and I'm not thrilled about dropping another $80 on a new one. This is the 3rd switch I've needed in the last 8 years! I see NPD has one by an unnamed vendor who is not Scott Drake. It's $30 more but if I never have to replace it again it's worth it. CJ Pony Parts also has a house brand that's a little cheaper but I suspect it's just a re-branded Scott Drake. Anybody use either of these alternates? Any other suggestions? Thanks
  8. I checked our little informal registry here, the closest I came is by user Hux who registered a 351-4V as unit number 144XXX. As you said, the odds of a 50 year old car surviving 47 years after you sold it are slim, to put it mildly. Good luck on your search, though, you never know. Hux 144xxx 18-Dec-1969 63* 351-4V, 3.25 gears. Richmond DSO
  9. Welcome back! I can't help with any of those parts but other than the tilt column, most should be available with a little effort and patience.
  10. Detroit Eaton builds their springs to the factory prints and their leaf springs did wonders for the badly sagging ass-end of my convertible. I'm very happy but I still run the stock suspension and 14" rims as they came form the factory. Most folks like to run more modern suspension setups and bigger rims, so that's where the customization comes in.
  11. Only knuckleheads (like us) who work on 50 year old cars can understand the satisfaction that comes with a victory like this.
  12. I used this stuff made for model builders. It looks good but is a pain to apply to the circular bezel. It comes in 8-1/2 x 11 sheets and you cut to fit. I didn't do a very good job but somebody with better skills might do better. https://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html
  13. Thanks for the link, I hadn't seen that thread. Bossnine aka Rick owns NPD so he knows his stuff. Oddly enough, I used the Krylon on my dash years ago when I did it, so I guess I got lucky :)
  14. The lower dash color was common to all interior colors. Ford called it charcoal metallic but it was pretty much a semi-gloss black. I would expect NPD's product to be a good choice. Here's a recent thread on Concoursmustang.com that goes into more detail.
  15. Did you dye that armrest? It looks great. I'm a fellow red-interior-guy.
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