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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2020 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?
  2. 4 points
    Caseyrhe

    U joint cap clips, help needed

    Success!! Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
  3. 4 points
    MorganLeBlanc

    Morgans 69 Mustang

    We finished up around five in the afternoon. I went with the Dyno Max Super Turbo mufflers. V band clamps and a X kit from Summit Racing and well as a complete kit from National Parts Depot. I have the turbo mufflers from the kit that I am planning to sell. I still need to weld on the chrome tips and make some minor adjustments. Then I can fire it up.
  4. 3 points
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs. Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar. I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake. I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs. FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb. In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A). The '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb. Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit. The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite MODDING the BRACKET: I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight. Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand. Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru. A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw. I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed. A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture. Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint. Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic. I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts. Doug
  5. 3 points
    It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area
  6. 3 points
    aslanefe

    Cleveland Vacuum advance system

    and never reply to a 12 year old thread.
  7. 3 points
    She’s back at shop to fix a few details. Her sister just arrived yesterday. 1964 Shelby Daytona Coupe Replica by Factory Five w a 289 & independent rear suspension. Can’t wait to drive her.
  8. 3 points
    Midlife

    The Real Truth

  9. 3 points
    Kris

    69 Convertible build

    Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now.
  10. 2 points
    Midlife

    Not me!

    I didn't do it! I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!
  11. 2 points
    Because the measurements on these cars vary wildly from car to car, that's something you should wait to do until your suspension, hood and fenders are installed. Unless you get custom offset wheels, I'd think you'll be using wheel adapters. Plan on rolling your fenders lips. This is a 17x9 Halibrand with around 1-1/8" spacer, and 275/40 tire.
  12. 2 points
    jjstang

    Rotisserie Mounting

    I used a laser level to establish a datum line and measured from there according to the factory specs. I used screw jacks for micro adjustment. 8 points. Worked good.
  13. 2 points
    buening

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  14. 2 points
    RobotMan

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    It was suggested I start a build thread for my 68 Hyland Green Fastback here by my fellow 69 buddies. After 2 builds with each of my sons on their 69 Mach 1s, I am beginning the 68 for my wife and I. Here is a starting picture of the car.
  15. 2 points
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry guys no6 had chance r]to do many updates. I work as a Chief Engineer/Head of Facilties for a group of hospitals in the U.K., so been rather busy with Covid19, but still getting sporadic hours on her, had a week off recently and spent It on the car. Summary; Put U pol raptor on inside, front rad support replaced, took hood, trunk and other panels down to bare metal, etch and high filler primer applied. started to get the panels back on and aligned, I really hate this part of the job ! hopefully the car will be collected for paint in next 1/2 weeks, going for a black top coat.
  16. 2 points
    Got the TCP tubs that are shaped like originals these add 2” and combined with the narrow leafs from Evergreen allow a 315 tire with enough clearance to avoid any rubbing. I did narrow the rear seat backrest, removing a section from the middle and reinforcing the joint. I also have a narrowed axle because I wanted the wheels to have dish.
  17. 2 points
    BuckeyeDemon

    69 mach 408w build

    i'll pass! wouldn't want to take away from the pleasure you could have! pushing on those dents, sanding for what seemed like hours.....
  18. 2 points
    RobotMan

    70 coupe electrical issues

    That Boss is off the hook!
  19. 2 points
    Northernstang

    In the beginning

    Heater box install.brake line maze.assembly time. Traction bars installed.
  20. 2 points
    newstang

    So Kamela and Joe...

    well, for starters some states do not require an ID to vote. so just about anyone can vote there. then just look at how this mail in crap worked out. ½ this country thinks this election was stolen. the other half is content because it was in their favor. but for 4 years they cried it was Russian interference. Well what if this election has had interference by Russia, notice how all of a sudden that is no longer a problem. they used this virus as an excuse not to go out to vote, but they have no problem going out everywhere else.
  21. 2 points
    I think you have to change the top shift plate of the console. It just unbolts.
  22. 2 points
    A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
  23. 2 points
    RPM

    Boss 302 shock tower reinforcements

    We all do staffy. Mike has tremendous talent, is kind enough to share his talent, and is truly a good and humble man. We are blessed to have him here. Happy Veteran's Day Mike, and all you other Vets, and thanks for your service.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    1969vert

    my 1969 project

    Alot of work today...hood aligned fenders aligned..new hood and scoop...a real pain to install and get ligned up...50 year old fenders and chinese hood..not a good match..the scoop is not a short boss... another pain...I just want to squirt some paint...wife is happy I'm working on it...been setting around for a few years...12 I think..don't get be started on hood hinges...
  26. 2 points
    Just to follow up on my own thread, I ended up going through the heater hose holes for my wiring. This worked since I have an A/C car and those heater hose holes were not used. I also mounted my controller in the glove box. I removed the liner so I can't store anything in there anymore though. I finished the install in early spring and highly recommend the 4R70W. It's a blast to drive now.
  27. 2 points
  28. 1 point
    A 1" bore master. I asked if he can give me advice on how to set the bias and he basically told me every car is different and gave me a list of the master cylinders he sells..... Yeah... Well I ordered a wilwood tandem but the dual remote reservoir and adj porpotional valve kit. I like it because it has the pushrod already and lines from the master to the porpotional valve. I just learned that the tandem feature makes it two independent systems. I didn't know that. That sold me I just didn't care for the oem style that needs to be opened to view how much fluid you have.
  29. 1 point
    Hi Bob, They make a Gel version of Evaporust. I have not used it much. In my experience Evaporust does not like to be exposed to air. Its looses its effectiveness faster when exposed to air. I would try brushing the Gel and cover the area with something like thing painters plastic or plastic wrap to keep the air away. Just allow the plastic to cover and stick to the Evaporust surface.
  30. 1 point
    Hi Bob, It looks like he was working on it in his garage and was leaning over thru the window to start it, or put in gear and off it went... With Ring and surveillance cameras so common now these kind of videos are plentiful on the net. Yes it was on TikTok. I did a video capture to save it off to my computer, but here is the link....https://vm.tiktok.com/ZMRkG1XLC/
  31. 1 point
    Midlife

    Fixing the Instrument Panel

    Very nicely done. Still awaiting the write-up of how the voltage regulator works. Are you available for hire? I could use someone who isn't afraid of 'lectricity...
  32. 1 point
    You can move towards the front more if you place a piece of wood on top of the stand to spread out the load
  33. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    how to wire the electric choke

    Well that's interesting Mid- I have the ammeter version and am not familiar- what makes the indicator light version unsuitable to run a relay coil?
  34. 1 point
    rwcstang

    Only in California ? Maybe a city near you

    that sucks! reminds me of this video how you can't purchase and install tesla parts yourself and need to take it to a service center.
  35. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Power Steering Kit

    I did a Borgeson conversion on my '68 and my '70. I used a GM style steering pump, and the manual centerlink and Pitman Arm. I also used Open Tracker roller idler arm. The Borgeson setup likes a lot of Caster. The steering column cut was not a big issue. I used the Borgeson lower bearing setup to keep the steering shaft aligned. Make sure you get the 6 cylinder hoses, as they are longer. Otherwise if you have headers the hoses will need to be wrapped in heat shield. On my '70, I ran the hoses in my fenderwells. I used AN bulkhead fittings and Earls Power steering hose and fittings. Works great, and is out of the way. Also on my'70 I used Global West "+3" UCAs, which have the center of the UCA at the ball joint moved back. So, they have a "built in" 3 degrees of Caster. This will avoid front wheel interference issues. Pic #1 - Steering Column Bushing Pic #2 - Hoses in Drivers Side Fenderwell Pic #3 - CVF Serpentine Belt System with GM Pump
  36. 1 point
    Flowmaster exhaust on my Mach1 with stock headers. https://youtu.be/1x22fNFaaW0
  37. 1 point
    It looks like the white clip is broken off and as far as I know you need a new speedo cable
  38. 1 point
    This is what I would do; get some nuts with the correct thread. Then use a small file and make channels inside them like a die would have (basically make a die out of the nut). Then use it as a tap. As the nuts are smaller than a die, they will not hit the sides of the channels.
  39. 1 point
    Mike65

    69 mach1 Wheel and tire size

    I am running 215/70R-14's in front & 225/70R-14's in the rear mounted on 68/69 GT styled steel wheels. My 69 Coupe has had the Arning/Shelby UCA drop performed, it has 1" lowering front coil springs, & 4.5 mid eye leaf springs in the rear.
  40. 1 point
    RobotMan

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    Did a 2 layer repair on door area drip tray trim. Typical rust close to A-pillar. Turned out pretty well.
  41. 1 point
    @Rcodenewf, it has been a long time since I installed a reproduction w/s (which I assume is what you are using). I looked at a few original doors I have with original w/s on them and on some one end of the w/s is little lifted, some are laying good; lifted ones did not have glue under lifted areas. If your w/s is a good quality (ie soft) then when you glue them, they should confirm. Follow the directions on the glue (ie put it on both sides, wait X minutes for it to get non-tacky etc). Last time I installed door w/s a couple years ago, I re-used the original w/s I removed without damaging it. I used the black 3M which I think holds a little better than the yellow one; do the aft side of the door first, then half of bottom, then other half, then front and glue it in sections. Before gluing, I install it with masking tape and mark the w/s and door in a few places so the ends of w/s matches to the screw holes at both ends of the w/s. Then glue section at a time, and attach per the marks I made on door and w/s. Attach one flat side of the 90 first while butting the 90 degree to the door 90 degree then press the other flat side. If you follow the directions on the glue and if your w/s is soft, glue will confirm the w/s to door. Good luck.
  42. 1 point
    det0326

    Aeromotive or Tanks Inc EFI tanks?

    I used the Tanks Inc. and didn't like the lines in the trunk area but it was the only one available at the time. Unless Tanks has changed there pumps it is very noisy I changed my pump to the Aeromotive one.
  43. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    All electric

    Didn't you say that about Sloppy Joe LOL.
  44. 1 point
    newstang

    So Kamela and Joe...

    well share....
  45. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Life’s Challenges

    Casey, awesome news! May the New Year bring you both health and happiness.
  46. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    Mach 1 Carpet

    Never had a problem with it LOL.
  47. 1 point
    I think the right question here may be: where did Ford CHOOSE to measure engine temperature? It is in the front of the intake on the side opposite the thermostat. If you look at the circulation path, Eric69 is correct that the front of the intake should be hotter than the rear. Its the last place in the engine where water circulates before exiting via the thermostat. Water leaves the bottom of the radiator, and is pumped into the block, and around the cylinders. It exits the block through the head gasket passages. Most of the water is forced to the rear so the entire engine gets cooled. DON'T reverse the head gasket- this is a common and disastrous mistake. No water is allowed through the front red passages, some can go up into the heads through the green and blue, but most is forced to the rear. From the heads it goes into the intake manifold to the front where the thermostat is located, and through the top hose into the radiator.
  48. 1 point
    rwcstang

    Sequential tail lights for a 69

    Thank you, the exhaust is one of my favorite parts of the car.
  49. 1 point
    69Stanger408

    69 Mach 1 / 408W

    Side wings installed left and right of stereo, little trimming required.
  50. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Hi all. Back working on the car, after spending most the summer travelling/working in Canada/Quarantining... Back in NC for a couple weeks, and trying to get some mini-projects out of the way. I am headed over to Mike's (Latoracing) who has kept a watchful eye on my car over the past months, while putting some finishing touches on it. I plan on hanging the doors on the car, so Mike can have his beautifully welded door braces back. To get ready for that, I pulled the doors out of storage, I had stripped the contents off the doors and had them media blasted and epoxy primed. Over last day or so, I put some Boom Mat in the doors, installed new window regulators, window guides, internal bump stops, and the door latch on both doors. I also replaced some of the worn parts on the window guides and rear bump stops. I also put new gaskets on the bolt in window mounts. This is all a lot easier to do when the door is off of the car. First 3 pics Old window guide spacers. Note that taper faces to the center of the guard. New bushings from NPD. Refurbished window guide with new bushings and new gasket. Next pic - door where you can see Boom Mat and window regulator. The two bolts and the oval plate at the latch end of the door hold in the rear bump stop. The door has a slotted hole in it to allow up and down movement. I always start with the stop pushed all the way down. The oval plate will need to be painted body color, so don't lose these when you take your door apart. (There are also smaller oval plates used for the rear window regulators on coupes and convertibles) Next set of pics - the rear window stop has a felt pad on it to keep the window from scratching when going up and down. One of mine was missing, the other was worn out. I couldn't find an exact replacement, but I found some in the NPD Catalog for earlier year Mustangs. They are slightly longer, so a quick cut with the hacksaw solved that problem. Mine were riveted in, you can see the rivets in the picture with the rear stop flipped over. So, I drilled out the rivets. The window felt kit came with a couple large staples, which I did not use, due to less than great results by the installer (me) in previous attempts with these type of stapled installs. So, I used 3M double sided body tape instead. I double stacked it and compressed it in my vice. I have used this tape to hold body parts on for later model cars, so I am sure it will last here. Last project was to drill a hole and put in a riv-nut to mount my 1969 Sport Mirrors. I had 2 existing holes that were much too close for the approx 7" distance between the new mounting hole. My car had these on both doors. The front "riv-nut" that was existing on both doors was actually a rubber/composite insert, which was easy to remove. I got a sport mirror mounting kit from NPD that had the correct screws and riv-nut. So, measure twice, drill once, and had a new hole (17/64") for the 1/4" riv-nut. I use riv-nuts a lot they are great for flush mounting stuff where you can't have a screw/bolt-nut combination. A while back, I got myself a riv-nut driver attachment for my DeWalt 20v drill. It works great. You progressively work your way tighter by using the clutch setting on the drill, until the riv-nut doesn't rotate anymore. If you go too far, you will deform the metal. Mine worked with the clutch setting on 10-11. It makes a nice, flush connection if done properly. I have included a pic of the adaptor if anyone is interested. Mine came with a bunch of dies that are for all your common machine screws and 1/4 -20 fasteners. It also has the equivalent metric sized dies. The only thing I am not really happy with is the "gasket" for the mirrors, that I got from NPD. If anyone has a mirror gasket that doesn't look like it is "squished" out on the sides, I would appreciate the info. The window project is a great weekend/weeknight project to do, which will give you better window operation in the end. Don't forget to use lubricant (lithium grease) when you do the final assembly. Vic


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