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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?
  2. 4 points

    Morgans 69 Mustang

    We finished up around five in the afternoon. I went with the Dyno Max Super Turbo mufflers. V band clamps and a X kit from Summit Racing and well as a complete kit from National Parts Depot. I have the turbo mufflers from the kit that I am planning to sell. I still need to weld on the chrome tips and make some minor adjustments. Then I can fire it up.
  3. 4 points

    Galveston, Tx Sunrise

    Saturday morning came early last weekend. Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise. A few pics for anyone interested. The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall. Beach pictures taken down on East Beach. They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made. Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress... Jay
  4. 3 points
    It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area
  5. 3 points

    Cleveland Vacuum advance system

    and never reply to a 12 year old thread.
  6. 3 points
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs. Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar. I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake. I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs. FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb. In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A). The '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb. Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit. The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite MODDING the BRACKET: I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight. Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand. Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru. A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw. I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed. A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture. Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint. Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic. I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts. Doug
  7. 3 points
    She’s back at shop to fix a few details. Her sister just arrived yesterday. 1964 Shelby Daytona Coupe Replica by Factory Five w a 289 & independent rear suspension. Can’t wait to drive her.
  8. 3 points

    The Real Truth

  9. 3 points

    69 Convertible build

    Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now.
  10. 3 points

    So Kamela and Joe...

    The wonder of makeup:)
  11. 3 points

    1968 Cougar

    The owners picked up their car :)
  12. 3 points


  13. 3 points

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    It was a beautiful day today so I pit the Mustang up on ramps in the rear & jack stands in the front & proceeded to clean off the undercoating where the sub frame connectors are going to weld to. Drivers side, Passengers side,
  14. 3 points
    finally got the engine painted and fully installed. New header studs and gaskets. Headers and poly engine mounts installed and everything bolted down. Next up, running the engine bay wiring harness.
  15. 2 points

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  16. 2 points

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    It was suggested I start a build thread for my 68 Hyland Green Fastback here by my fellow 69 buddies. After 2 builds with each of my sons on their 69 Mach 1s, I am beginning the 68 for my wife and I. Here is a starting picture of the car.
  17. 2 points

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry guys no6 had chance r]to do many updates. I work as a Chief Engineer/Head of Facilties for a group of hospitals in the U.K., so been rather busy with Covid19, but still getting sporadic hours on her, had a week off recently and spent It on the car. Summary; Put U pol raptor on inside, front rad support replaced, took hood, trunk and other panels down to bare metal, etch and high filler primer applied. started to get the panels back on and aligned, I really hate this part of the job ! hopefully the car will be collected for paint in next 1/2 weeks, going for a black top coat.
  18. 2 points
    Got the TCP tubs that are shaped like originals these add 2” and combined with the narrow leafs from Evergreen allow a 315 tire with enough clearance to avoid any rubbing. I did narrow the rear seat backrest, removing a section from the middle and reinforcing the joint. I also have a narrowed axle because I wanted the wheels to have dish.
  19. 2 points

    69 mach 408w build

    i'll pass! wouldn't want to take away from the pleasure you could have! pushing on those dents, sanding for what seemed like hours.....
  20. 2 points

    70 coupe electrical issues

    That Boss is off the hook!
  21. 2 points

    In the beginning

    Heater box install.brake line maze.assembly time. Traction bars installed.
  22. 2 points

    So Kamela and Joe...

    well, for starters some states do not require an ID to vote. so just about anyone can vote there. then just look at how this mail in crap worked out. ½ this country thinks this election was stolen. the other half is content because it was in their favor. but for 4 years they cried it was Russian interference. Well what if this election has had interference by Russia, notice how all of a sudden that is no longer a problem. they used this virus as an excuse not to go out to vote, but they have no problem going out everywhere else.
  23. 2 points
    A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
  24. 2 points

    Boss 302 shock tower reinforcements

    We all do staffy. Mike has tremendous talent, is kind enough to share his talent, and is truly a good and humble man. We are blessed to have him here. Happy Veteran's Day Mike, and all you other Vets, and thanks for your service.
  25. 2 points

    my 1969 project

    Alot of work today...hood aligned fenders aligned..new hood and scoop...a real pain to install and get ligned up...50 year old fenders and chinese hood..not a good match..the scoop is not a short boss... another pain...I just want to squirt some paint...wife is happy I'm working on it...been setting around for a few years...12 I think..don't get be started on hood hinges...
  26. 2 points
    Just to follow up on my own thread, I ended up going through the heater hose holes for my wiring. This worked since I have an A/C car and those heater hose holes were not used. I also mounted my controller in the glove box. I removed the liner so I can't store anything in there anymore though. I finished the install in early spring and highly recommend the 4R70W. It's a blast to drive now.
  27. 2 points

    70 Landau Coupe Special

    Got to work on the car last Sat am, installed the new proportioning valve, bled brakes. Took new proportioning valve off, filed top of block, installed new cooper washer, bled brakes and FINALLY all looks good. Good pedal and brakes stop rear brakes. First test drive coming soon!!
  28. 2 points

    Scorching hot alternator pulley

    If I were you, I'd go to great lengths to get the V belts to work. I didn't even think to try a double V belt when my single belt kept slipping with a ~100 amp alternator. I even used a turnbuckle to tighten the belt. Even though I dislike the serpentine belt look, it does work. My need to use the 100 amp alt was a classic rabbit hole affair, which I don't recommend. Since I just had to have a shaker air cleaner, tIhen found it sat too high thru the hood. Shoulda milled the Stealth intake, but lowered the motor. Which required custom motor mounts, engine crossmember, electric fans since stock interfered with lower radiator hose, custom tranny mounts to keep angle correct. All for a damn shaker. With dual fans, power windows, and stereo, I went big on the alternator. In hindsight, I'd keep it stock. Much more simple, and stock works just fine.
  29. 2 points

    Correct Fuel Filter location

    I could be wrong but the original carbs were Autolites and they had the filter built into them. I'm far from a pro though, so don't take my word for gospel.
  30. 2 points

    408w breather caps or

    You would need both for the system to work correctly. A filtered air supply from your air cleaner to one valve cover OR a breather fitted to that cover. On the other valve cover you would need to hook up a PCV with vacuum supplied by either a intake manifold fitting OR a vacuum supply from your carb or carb spacer.
  31. 2 points
    This finger?
  32. 2 points
    OK, I am going to go throw a weird one at you. Maybe your problem is related to mine, but probably not. your problem is more likely a connection problem. However, I had a similar radio cutting out problem with my retrosound, except mine would cut out when I revved the engine from low speed to high, but it only seemed to happen when the car was fresh out of the garage. Also, if the car was brought back to dead idle, radio would play again -even fresh out of the garage. weird thing was, drive it a few miles, and this cut-out would go away. So, after me living with this for a long while, and pondering it, but not coming up with anything, a friend rides with me and sees this weird behavior and has a genius insight - he says "do you have an original voltage regulator?" yes. "well then, I think maybe your radio is seeing unacceptable voltages when the alternator is kicked in at higher RPMS. The alternator kicks in much more often immediately after the car has started after it's been sitting in garage. After you drive the car a bit, the battery gets charged up - so alternator not kicking in - and symptom stops. Maybe you should try a new solid-state VR." Freaking genius insight. Sure enough, a new solid state VR solved my radio cutting out problem completely. Now, in your case, the radio cuts out at low speed - when another electrical system is engaged. So perhaps the current draw of the blinker system causes the voltage the radio is getting to somehow change to a temporarily unacceptable amount. Car equilibrates voltages are a few moments and radio comes back on. At high RPMs voltage is sufficiently regulated to not cause a problem in the circuit. Do you have an old-style VR with resistors on the back? is a good question to ask if you can't trace it to bad ground or bad connection. Above image is what the back of my old VR looked like (I believe it is original with the car). The new Solid State versions don't look like this. Most likely, this is not your problem, but at least I stuck to the "radio cuts out" theme. Hope this wasn't too much of a thread high-jack! Jay
  33. 2 points


    The libtarts are willing to spend 2 Trillion to destroy economy & cause riots because it is their game plan to hurt Trump. They want to take him down at all costs.
  34. 2 points

    Headlight bucket fitment

    I had tried the washer already. I looked at my other fender and I saw where it didn’t have any gap between the inner bucket and the fender at the bottom. The fender that didn’t fit has an 1/8” gap. I drilled out the spot welds and moved it to match the other one and now it lines up perfect. Thanks for all the suggestions.
  35. 2 points
    Ridge Runner


    Never worked a day in their lives brainwashed kids .they can push people around but if you push back they scream brutality ,i say we bring in Mad Max ! I am locked and loaded ,no one is getting in here with out a fight
  36. 2 points
    Mines been in the shop a few months. She got a NARDI steering wheel, modern BAER brakes in front, 18” Halibrand wheels wrapped in modern MICHELINs. last year I gave her new speakers & amp, EIBACH shocks, sway bars & springs w 1.5” drop in front cus she was riding way high when I got her
  37. 2 points
    Replaced my old gauges with Dakota Digital RTX Vintage Series. Definitely and awesome product, super easy to calibrate on your phone.
  38. 2 points
    reviving this ancient thread as Covid-19 restrictions here in the NY/NJ area has finally allowed me time to work on the mustang. The little free time i've had in the last year has been mostly spent doing home renovations, motorcycle track days, and some work on the newest addition to the stable: But anyhow, back to the mustang. Spent the last few weeks working to correct a lot of the crappy work the shop did. Ended up fabricating new engine mounts and transmission crossmember, fitted JBA shorty headers, installed a new intake and did a light port on the throttle body, modified the sn95 pedal cluster to fit using a 1969 brake pedal and clearancing the cowl to allow the quadrant to clear, rebuilt the door hinges, fixed some small rust holes in the inner cowls on both sides, and fabricated an air cleaner to fit a 2004 mach 1 shaker scoop and seal on the 2000 Lincoln continental intake manifold. pedal assembly had to cut the cowl a bit for the quadrant to clear door hinges engine mounts - had to raise the engine a bit and move it slightly forward for the headers to clear and the transmission to clear the tunnel while maintaining proper driveline angle. Transmission mount Had to modify the trans tunnel for the shifter opening (was an auto) so cut it for clearance, notched andboxed in the trans tunnel support, and patched the opening. Shaker assembly - wanted to use a late model shaker but didn't want the entire mess of the stock airbox in the engine bay (also, not daily driving this thing so not worried about monsoons) so fabricated a mid plate to bolt to the 2004 Mach 1 shaker top and sandwich the late model shaker seal. Using a K&N filter that measures about 9.5x11.65" pardon the trashed hood - have a dynacorn flat hood to go on but didn't want to cut the shaker hole until I knew if I could actually pull off this airbox idea so tossed on the junk 70 hood I had laying around with the shaker hole already cut. Have to repaint the engine and some of the engine bay and sort out the hydroboost fitment, but hoping to get started on wiring and plumbing shortly.
  39. 1 point

    Only in California ? Maybe a city near you

    that sucks! reminds me of this video how you can't purchase and install tesla parts yourself and need to take it to a service center.
  40. 1 point

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    Nice car. Is it an original "F" code 302? If you are going to do a stroker, would suggest using a late model roller cam block as the starting point. I have done several '68s and used to be a MCA '67-'68 judge, so if you run into any hard spots, happy to assist. Vic
  41. 1 point
    Final pics with air cleaner installed ... now I just need to wait for Spring (or unseasonably warm weekend between now and then) to start it up and see how it runs. I do have the Electric Choke hooked up to the alternator Stator terminal, just as I did with the Holley. Summit states 12V is mandatory (as I believe the Holley Choke Kit literature stated as well), but the choke on the Holley worked just fine on stator voltage. I then removed both choke caps to compare and they appear to be IDENTICAL including the thickness & width of the flat choke coil spring. Doug
  42. 1 point

    Skynet's coming.

    I think a 308 or 50 cal would suffice
  43. 1 point

    1969 tach dash available

    And to think I bought my Tach Dash at the 1987 IOLA Swap Meet in very nice original shape WITH a good and complete dash harness for $85.00. Went back and bought a second one from the same vendor for my brother a year or two later ... don't remember what I paid for that one but doubt it was a whole lot more than paid for the 1st one !! Sometimes makes me wonder if my car is worth more in parts or whole. Doug
  44. 1 point
    JET 445

    In the beginning

    Grabber Green?, looks fantastic you have done a great job on that car.
  45. 1 point


    had a hard time finding the part i was looking for, but a guy from our club, one of those that hasso much car stuff from over the last 60 years, he had a drawer full of the parts, gtting hold of holley was like pulling teeth, so every things turned out great and running again. and to RogerC, thats the part i was looking for, but mine must be a old ball, it got a 5/8 hook up instead of the 3/8,. but thanks for the info
  46. 1 point

    70 Landau Coupe Special

    Bought this car last year for 400.00, as a parts car. After getting it home and getting the 4 five gallon buckets worth of old acorns, rat and squirrel crap, and ?? it looked to good to part her out. When I got brave enough to take out the back seat and venture into the trunk, there I found the rest of the interior pieces, exterior trim, light buckets, and another 2 five gallon buckets of nuts and crap. I stripped her down, went thru all the wiring, and got all the electrical working. I replaced the drivers side floor pan and off to paint and body she went. Rust was minimal, with just a few patches in the normal rusted out spots and a new used top of course. She came home today.
  47. 1 point

    Front spindles

    Drum brake spindles have a 4 Bolt flange for mounting the backing plate. Disk brake have a 3 bolt flange for mounting the backing plates. I beleive 70 have a larger spinal that takes a larger bearing as well. Then there are granda spendals that I have knowledge.
  48. 1 point
    sub 11 could be done with both motor combos. roll cage not needed but a 5 point bar minimum. I would suggest swing out on the drivers side.. ran a pump gas 393 and it put print out 11.15 slips all day..
  49. 1 point

    Suspension options

    That's a big hit :(
  50. 1 point

    1G to 3G alternator conversion

    Figured I'd wrap this up -- the PA Performance guys have great support, doing through various voltage measurements at various spots to debug it down to a faulty internal voltage regulator in the alternator. This is an easily serviceable part (small part that screws into back of alternator) and the new one has solved all my issues. Thanks Mach1Driver for the feedback as well, you were spot-on in your analysis :) I saw it at 13.8V on the battery after I started up the engine and ~14.4V after a little test drive.

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