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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?
  2. 4 points

    U joint cap clips, help needed

    Success!! Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
  3. 4 points

    Life’s Challenges

    Yes, happy tears First round of chemo went ok. Changed the caps out 18 times over 9 hours, with one of them being on the side of the highway on the way home. She hasn't lost any of her hair yet, so well worth it. The first 5 days after chemo were as to be expected I guess from what I'd read, but one hell of an emotional roller coaster with it changing from a laugh, to her curled up in a ball on the floor crying she cant do it anymore. We go back next week for the second of the 4 treatments and plan on kicking this one too. My wife is such the warrior!! Thanks guys for all your support and prayers
  4. 4 points

    Morgans 69 Mustang

    We finished up around five in the afternoon. I went with the Dyno Max Super Turbo mufflers. V band clamps and a X kit from Summit Racing and well as a complete kit from National Parts Depot. I have the turbo mufflers from the kit that I am planning to sell. I still need to weld on the chrome tips and make some minor adjustments. Then I can fire it up.
  5. 3 points
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs. Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar. I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake. I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs. FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb. In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A). The '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb. Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit. The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite MODDING the BRACKET: I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight. Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand. Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru. A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw. I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed. A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture. Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint. Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic. I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts. Doug
  6. 3 points
    I had installed small speakers inside the kick panel vents which still let me use the vents when needed. The small speakers did not sound decent so I decided to increase the speaker size while keeping them functional. So I modified the vents to mount pod I manufactured which holds 5.25" speakers. Now I have bigger speakers and vent is still functional (it does not open all the way, just about half way now). While I was covered in resin, I decided to make a pod that replaces the whole vent and let me mount up to 7" diameter speaker on my 1970 vert. You remove your vent, install this pod which acts like a cabin for your speaker). One for right side, one for left side (which are mirror images of each other). Then decided to see why the clock on the vert was not working; opened it up and found a gear had broken spindle. Does anybody have any old clock mechanism that I can use parts from, may someone who converted to quartz etc? While I was working on the vert, I decided to polish the windshield trim. the one on right is polished, the one on left not yet. As you all know one think leads to another, so while I was at it I decided to take the vert apart and restore it while changing the color back to it's original competition yellow. Looks like it is going to need some (maybe a lot more than some) rust repair/metal replacements. I will be changing it a little bit, will use modern cloth top with glass, will change the upholstery and door panel designs to vinyl/cloth and make them resemble 1980s Recaros.
  7. 3 points
    It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area
  8. 3 points

    Cleveland Vacuum advance system

    and never reply to a 12 year old thread.
  9. 3 points
    She’s back at shop to fix a few details. Her sister just arrived yesterday. 1964 Shelby Daytona Coupe Replica by Factory Five w a 289 & independent rear suspension. Can’t wait to drive her.
  10. 3 points

    The Real Truth

  11. 3 points

    69 Convertible build

    Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now.
  12. 3 points

    So Kamela and Joe...

    The wonder of makeup:)
  13. 2 points

    Not me!

    I didn't do it! I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!
  14. 2 points
    Because the measurements on these cars vary wildly from car to car, that's something you should wait to do until your suspension, hood and fenders are installed. Unless you get custom offset wheels, I'd think you'll be using wheel adapters. Plan on rolling your fenders lips. This is a 17x9 Halibrand with around 1-1/8" spacer, and 275/40 tire.
  15. 2 points

    Rotisserie Mounting

    I used a laser level to establish a datum line and measured from there according to the factory specs. I used screw jacks for micro adjustment. 8 points. Worked good.
  16. 2 points

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  17. 2 points

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    It was suggested I start a build thread for my 68 Hyland Green Fastback here by my fellow 69 buddies. After 2 builds with each of my sons on their 69 Mach 1s, I am beginning the 68 for my wife and I. Here is a starting picture of the car.
  18. 2 points

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry guys no6 had chance r]to do many updates. I work as a Chief Engineer/Head of Facilties for a group of hospitals in the U.K., so been rather busy with Covid19, but still getting sporadic hours on her, had a week off recently and spent It on the car. Summary; Put U pol raptor on inside, front rad support replaced, took hood, trunk and other panels down to bare metal, etch and high filler primer applied. started to get the panels back on and aligned, I really hate this part of the job ! hopefully the car will be collected for paint in next 1/2 weeks, going for a black top coat.
  19. 2 points
    Got the TCP tubs that are shaped like originals these add 2” and combined with the narrow leafs from Evergreen allow a 315 tire with enough clearance to avoid any rubbing. I did narrow the rear seat backrest, removing a section from the middle and reinforcing the joint. I also have a narrowed axle because I wanted the wheels to have dish.
  20. 2 points

    69 mach 408w build

    i'll pass! wouldn't want to take away from the pleasure you could have! pushing on those dents, sanding for what seemed like hours.....
  21. 2 points

    70 coupe electrical issues

    That Boss is off the hook!
  22. 2 points

    In the beginning

    Heater box install.brake line maze.assembly time. Traction bars installed.
  23. 2 points

    So Kamela and Joe...

    well, for starters some states do not require an ID to vote. so just about anyone can vote there. then just look at how this mail in crap worked out. ½ this country thinks this election was stolen. the other half is content because it was in their favor. but for 4 years they cried it was Russian interference. Well what if this election has had interference by Russia, notice how all of a sudden that is no longer a problem. they used this virus as an excuse not to go out to vote, but they have no problem going out everywhere else.
  24. 2 points
    I think you have to change the top shift plate of the console. It just unbolts.
  25. 2 points
    A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
  26. 2 points

    Boss 302 shock tower reinforcements

    We all do staffy. Mike has tremendous talent, is kind enough to share his talent, and is truly a good and humble man. We are blessed to have him here. Happy Veteran's Day Mike, and all you other Vets, and thanks for your service.
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points

    my 1969 project

    Alot of work today...hood aligned fenders aligned..new hood and scoop...a real pain to install and get ligned up...50 year old fenders and chinese hood..not a good match..the scoop is not a short boss... another pain...I just want to squirt some paint...wife is happy I'm working on it...been setting around for a few years...12 I think..don't get be started on hood hinges...
  29. 2 points
    Just to follow up on my own thread, I ended up going through the heater hose holes for my wiring. This worked since I have an A/C car and those heater hose holes were not used. I also mounted my controller in the glove box. I removed the liner so I can't store anything in there anymore though. I finished the install in early spring and highly recommend the 4R70W. It's a blast to drive now.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points

    70 Landau Coupe Special

    Got to work on the car last Sat am, installed the new proportioning valve, bled brakes. Took new proportioning valve off, filed top of block, installed new cooper washer, bled brakes and FINALLY all looks good. Good pedal and brakes stop rear brakes. First test drive coming soon!!
  32. 2 points

    Scorching hot alternator pulley

    If I were you, I'd go to great lengths to get the V belts to work. I didn't even think to try a double V belt when my single belt kept slipping with a ~100 amp alternator. I even used a turnbuckle to tighten the belt. Even though I dislike the serpentine belt look, it does work. My need to use the 100 amp alt was a classic rabbit hole affair, which I don't recommend. Since I just had to have a shaker air cleaner, tIhen found it sat too high thru the hood. Shoulda milled the Stealth intake, but lowered the motor. Which required custom motor mounts, engine crossmember, electric fans since stock interfered with lower radiator hose, custom tranny mounts to keep angle correct. All for a damn shaker. With dual fans, power windows, and stereo, I went big on the alternator. In hindsight, I'd keep it stock. Much more simple, and stock works just fine.
  33. 2 points

    Correct Fuel Filter location

    I could be wrong but the original carbs were Autolites and they had the filter built into them. I'm far from a pro though, so don't take my word for gospel.
  34. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    how to wire the electric choke

    Well that's interesting Mid- I have the ammeter version and am not familiar- what makes the indicator light version unsuitable to run a relay coil?
  35. 1 point

    speedometer driven gear

    Take a look at these: https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-gears https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-calc
  36. 1 point

    Power Steering Kit

    I did a Borgeson conversion on my '68 and my '70. I used a GM style steering pump, and the manual centerlink and Pitman Arm. I also used Open Tracker roller idler arm. The Borgeson setup likes a lot of Caster. The steering column cut was not a big issue. I used the Borgeson lower bearing setup to keep the steering shaft aligned. Make sure you get the 6 cylinder hoses, as they are longer. Otherwise if you have headers the hoses will need to be wrapped in heat shield. On my '70, I ran the hoses in my fenderwells. I used AN bulkhead fittings and Earls Power steering hose and fittings. Works great, and is out of the way. Also on my'70 I used Global West "+3" UCAs, which have the center of the UCA at the ball joint moved back. So, they have a "built in" 3 degrees of Caster. This will avoid front wheel interference issues. Pic #1 - Steering Column Bushing Pic #2 - Hoses in Drivers Side Fenderwell Pic #3 - CVF Serpentine Belt System with GM Pump
  37. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Which paint colour - help me decide

    I do like that gray with black, however probably Red would appeal to more buyers.
  38. 1 point

    Best part finds!

    ... and I feel like I got a deal for a $2 bottle of wine at Trader Joes. Two buck Chuck. Oh well, bad wine... had to toss it.
  39. 1 point

    So Kamela and Joe...

    well share....
  40. 1 point

    Covid vaccine

    Tell them it is against your spiritual beliefs to violate your body. Time to use their rules against them.
  41. 1 point
    JET 445

    In the beginning

    Grabber Green?, looks fantastic you have done a great job on that car.
  42. 1 point

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    I had to post a pic of how this project started when it came to me. Its come a long way since and I'm very grateful for the opportunity to be a part of getting it to drive out of my shop. I can't wait to see it all painted up and going to it's first cruse.
  43. 1 point

    Mach 1 Carpet

    Never had a problem with it LOL.
  44. 1 point

    Sequential tail lights for a 69

    I too installed the Vintage LED set up recently. You can see it is pixelated some compared the stock bulb with just the lights on. But as bright as they are, I should have done it much sooner and VERY HAPPY with the quality and ease of install of the Vintage LED product. I did the front turn signals and back up lights as well. Here is a quick video as well of the, it does flare the camera a little as bright as they are, but I love the setup. I also like that when you hit the brakes it can do just solid and on sequential. 20200523_112043.mp4
  45. 1 point
    Maybe I missed something, but I briefly looked at your pictures in your other thread. The fan shroud you have is for a radiator with the lower hose on the passenger side. To the best of my knowledge big blocks all have the lower hose on the drivers side and the shrouds are made for that.
  46. 1 point

    Shelby Arning Drop with Stock Parts?

    You guys are correct, not sure what I was thinking. The manual steering pitman arm has a stud like a ball joint and the power steering one just has a hole that the stud on the control valve connects to.
  47. 1 point

    Shelby Arning Drop with Stock Parts?

    exactly what i was going to suggest Lanky. I did this to mine and also set the shaft in control arm forward a thread or two. all this made the grease fitting to close the the shock tower so I plugged the original hole so I positioned everything the way would be torqued down and marked the nut hex flat facing out. took back apart and drilled and taped the hole. With this modification and lower control arm pulled forward as far as I could without tire rub on valance I got 5 degrees caster. I had CPP intergral steering box similar to Borgensen and the car drove awesome.
  48. 1 point

    Is the Coolant Sensor in enough??

    If this is an electrical coolant sensor, don't use teflon products on the threads, as the threads are the conductive path to ground.
  49. 1 point

    How Cool Is It,....

    I find it neat to read some of the days gone by advertising.
  50. 1 point

    Dakota Digital Install

    I'm planning on it myself. I really like that the faces mimic the OEM look.

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