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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/12/2021 in Posts

  1. 2 points

    Boss 9 Tribute

    It’s a shame. What’s the VIN on the car, was it a big block or something special to begin with? if not it may be time to get a good single malt have a farewell drink with the car, and give it a Viking funeral…
  2. 2 points
    On my 70 MAch 1 I installed Global West Tubular Upper upper and lower control arms and their adjustable strut rods. Also used their Eccentric Loc-Outs. The kit provided a 1" drop steel template for drilling the lower upper control arm pivot holes. I installed Global West Coil Springs (#: s-27), which are stock height performance street with 640 pounds per inch. I welded in some of the BOSS track Mods... the Shock Tower reinforcements plates and the crossmember lower control arm eccentric anchor plates (I chose to use Global West Eccentric Loc-Outs instead). I also converted my manual steering to a CPP GM style power steering setup and swapped my front spindles and drum brakes to stronger Granada front spindles, and calipers with slotted/drilled rotors. I just finished the restoration, and have had limited opportunity to drive the car, but so far so good. Here is the Global West Suspension product description... https://www.globalwest.net/mustang-1967-1968-1969-1970-tubular-arms-strut-rods-front-suspension-global-west.html 1967-1973 Mustang Plus 3 Upper Control Arms # MNR-733 (Sold as a Pair)Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car. This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.) The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA. Tech Information: Caster With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown. The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation: Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster. This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned. If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!
  3. 2 points

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Some of your questions could be better answered if we knew what steering system u may have. Stock verses something else. I used the CPP steering box which is comparable to the Borgenson just a little quicker ratio. I actually plugged the grease zerk fittings on the end of nuts and drilled on the flat of nut putting the zerk fittings pointing straight out which allowed me to move the upper control arm back about 1/4 " or so which gave me more positive caster. With 1" drop and more positive caster my car had a more modern feel. The car handled beautifully. None of this tho except the 1" drop is necessary if you are keeping stock steering.
  4. 2 points
    Mach1 Driver

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Here are a couple of references, and its best if you read it from the experts: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/understanding-shelby-arning-drop-changes/29324. https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html I've only heard positive things about roller perches. Well OK, some people complain about the cost, but not the ride improvement.
  5. 2 points
    Ridge Runner


    LALALALA ,Can you hear me now ? Can you hear me now ? LALALALALA WOOP WOOP WOOP !!
  6. 1 point

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Sorry bigmal I have seen some nice racks but I know nothing about steering racks so I can't help u there. Not sure if CPP or Borgenson makes a right hand drive box or not but it keeps all your steering geometry correct. If u ever tried one I believe u would like it.
  7. 1 point
    Ridge Runner


    The flapper plate looks like it simply sat on top of the air cleaner ,it had a locater tab on the bottom to keep it pointing forward . The rubber seal locked over the air cleaner and the flapper plate . There was a small lid inside the air cleaner with a small air filter just like a normal air cleaner . When the hood was closed the rubber seal touched the bottom of the hood venting air into the flapper plate through the pie cut holes in the hood under the air cleaner . The mach 1 type hood scoop simply had the rubber block of behind the scoop grill removed ,other than that it is the typical mach 1 hood scoop .i made a mold from the flapper plate ,sold several many years ago ,i still have the mold around here some where.
  8. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    That's interesting and definitely the first time I've heard that. What other suspension mods do you have? Anyone else have this experience?
  9. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Don't know anything about caster/camber templates ? The RSS steering rack or right hand drive. So no help here. Brian
  10. 1 point

    Boss 9 Tribute

    Here's where the car is now so you can see what i'm working with and why I decided to stop working on the original shell: Literally... i think the only good piece of metal on the car is the passenger side outer rocker. That's it.
  11. 1 point
    looks great.. thanks for the reply I really appreciate the help. I was able to make the old lines work for a temporary solution. I will redo them all when I get the car home. going to tackle the fuel lines tomorrow.
  12. 1 point
    Hi Rich, I replaced all of the brake lines. Don't use 50 year old lines with your new brake system. I bought the 1970 Mustang kit from Inline Tube. All the lines will need some modification. I prefer to use Stainless Steel. but it is much harder to work with...hard to bend, and if you need to trim them, it is impossible to flare the ends with hand tools. So I would recommend using Steel lines. The line from the rear to the Proportioning valve will need some bending to line up, as will the two front lines. The lines from the valve to the master cylinder will need to be bent. My conversion kit cam with rubber lines to connect the two rear lines to the rear disc caliper, but I chose to go all hardline instead. The rear lines after the junction "T" on the axle will need to be trimmed and bent to line up with eh rear calipers. The critical part for me was finding the Banjo to 3/8" female inverted flare to connect the existing hardline fitting to the rear caliper. My front Granada disc brake assembly came with the flex lines. I needed to add an adapter to connect the hardline fitting to the flex tube. I also need to install a mounting bracket to secure the hard line and flex tube to the frame. Finding all the right fitting adapters took a lot of time a searching and some trial and error. If you have access to a hydraulic flaring tool and know someone who can help you make the tubes with the right flares and fittings, then that may be a good route to take. Finally, you will need to make some mods to the parking brake cable ends to adapt it to the rear brake calipers. Also you will need a GM Proportioning valve Brake Warning light plug. Our Mustang have two wire plugs and the GM plug is one wire. Just twist the two wires from you Ford harness together and connect it to the GM one wire. Let me know if I can provide anymore info.
  13. 1 point
    I like the black carpet, dash, console, and rear fold down. I think those parts in black contrast nicely against the red seats. Thanks
  14. 1 point

    Modifying window height stops

    A couple of the rubbers were missing from the window limiting stops so i went and bought a selection of vacuum caps at my local supplier. After matching the cap to the bracket i sprayed it with a little silicone and then warmed it with my heatgun. They fit quite tightly as the heat allows it to stretch and then constrict when cool. Probably will outlast the car. In the pic the original is in the middle and the ones on either side of it are the ones i did. . In my opinion its better than wrapping tape around it. Hope this helps someone who runs into this situation. John
  15. 1 point
    1970 Mach 1 Walk Around With Start & Lights Small Size.mp4
  16. 1 point
    A Project progress update.... Well, it's been more than 3 years since I bought the 1970 Calypso Coral Mach 1 M code with Vermillion Red interior and it's almost done. The Cleveland was stroked to 408ci with a Tremec 5spd, Eaton TrueTrac with 3.70 gears. Four-wheel disc brakes with Global West Front Suspension. Holley Sniper EFI and Holley Hyperspark Ignition. Lots of other mods.. Still needs the interior door panels and windshield installed. I can't wait to drive it, but I still need to bleed the brakes again, Bleed the Hydraulic Clutch, take it in for a wheel alignment, and some exhaust pipe work. Then I can get it inspected and drive it. I'll post a walk-around video next.... hope you like it. Still needs door panels and windshield and molding... Here is the switch for the power windows and the toggle switch for the remote power side view mirrors. I mounted them in the center console where they are accessible to both the drive and passenger to avoid putting holes for them in the door panels. The fold down rear seat with a pair of Kicker 8" sub woofers mounted in the trap door panel. I was able to install a 17" x 9" rim with a Nitto 45 x 245 size tire in the trunk even with a fold down rear seat trap door panel. This spare wheel matches my front wheels and is a bit smaller than my rear wheels. I did it by relocating the hold down loop. First I sweeeezzzed the wheel in to the trunk where I wanted it, and then I placed the hold down bar thru the dust cap hole in the spare and marked where to weld the hold down loop to the trunk floor. The space is so tight, that I have to release the latch on the trap door when putting the wheel in, or taking it out, but once the wheel is completely in or out I can latch trap door again. Here is a pic of it.... Below is a walk-around video....
  17. 1 point

    Holley sniper or Fitech efi

    Edelbrock pro flo 4 is what I was speaking of in post above. I used it on a 454 well pleased with it.
  18. 1 point

    My Son Mike's 69 Mach 1 Restoration

    Took a picture today of both son’s cars against the Blue Ridge Mountain backdrop in our back yard. Thought they turned out well!

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