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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/29/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    ***SOLVED*** First off, I would like to thank you all for your help. Between all of your insights I was able to figure out the problem. LONG story short, I hooked a 9V battery to some speaker wire and started poking my fully assembled cluster (now on my kitchen counter) until lights started turning on. To my surprise, sometimes almost all of the lights turned on! WEIRD! After a while I noticed a pattern that when I put voltage across each light socket, one of two things would happen: 1) Only two lights would light up OR 2) All of the other lights besides two would light up. This would happen after changing the polarity of my test by reversing which side on each socket I had the "positive" and "negative" cables from the 9V battery. I then checked the forum to post my findings and saw what @danno had said about the insulating brackets so I took apart the cluster again and made sure they were in the correct position. Once I re-assembled the cluster and repeated my earlier test, I got the same results EXCEPT now two different bulbs were lit up (or not lit up depending on the cable polarity). Once I bashed my head against a wall a few more times, I thought back to what @Midlife said about polarity, and even though the bulbs I purchased have reversible polarity, and, therefore, should not care how they are installed, I thought maybe, just maybe, technology back in 1969 wasn't set up to handle reversible polarity. I then, in the proper "positive/negative voltage flow" scenario, removed and rotated each bulb, that wasn't lighting up, 180 degrees and BOOM. All bulbs work as intended. What a relief. TLDR: Even reversible polarity LED bulbs bought from modern manufactures are not reversible in this context. I have no idea why and random chance of how I chose to install each bulb has been my downfall all along. I will definitely be marking my lights and light sockets with a pen from here on out. Anyways, a test drive to make sure my gauges were working revealed that the only casualty is my fuel gauge, which does not work anymore. @danno this gauge had the insulating brackets in the correct place all along so i'm not too sure why it's suddenly not working, but I am taking the win for tonight. Pictures attached of my 9V test for those who are curious. I hope this thread helps others who have issues with after market LED's.
  2. 1 point
    I read on another forum that a guy shortened them but it could have reduced the stiffness the add. Maybe its something a cutoff wheel and my welder can fix. I'll find out. Glad your still around! I bolted that crossmember and it fit perfect Bob. I even lifted my front end and it worked as I hoped it will. I'm a long ways away from installing that 408w but ill find out if it clears the pan I got for it.
  3. 1 point

    Dream project - Mach 1 R-Code

    Been a while since I updated. Car has been painted and assembly has started along with continued restoration of suspension.
  4. 1 point
    Heres my reasoning: 1. The car has 41 total lights 2. Excluding the headlights (there will probably never be LEDs that are DOT approved), the incandescent lights eat up 26.42 amps. LEDs would consume only 4.51A. That's an 83% amperage savings. Yes I know they won't all be on at once, and I know what will be on when I'm driving at night. 3. The stock alternator is what 35A-38A? Even with the change to LEDs I still need to change to a 95A alternator just to run the stuff I want to upgrade. I won't be running radiator cooling fans because that's another 22A. I will add EFI, an electric fuel pump, power windows, improve the radio output, halogen head lights, MSD 6AL, cruise control, transmission control, and various other amperage sucking devices. 4. I've run the numbers and the only way not to upgrade to a 130A alternator (which would require a serpentine belt system and electric cooling fans) is to eliminate the incandescent lights. I'm pretty passionate about keeping the stock look, and a serpentine system is definitely not a stock look.
  5. 1 point

    70 Mach 1 Hood Scoop Light Question

    OK, now I understand a bit more. The connections for the hood scoop lights is (as you said) a 4 wire connector for a 70. That changes things. It also changes things because I think the front parking/turn lights are wired different on a 69 and 70. What you need to disconnect is the front combo turn signal/parking light, not the front side marker light. I am not sure you can disconnect them in a 70. What you can also do is remove the front combo bulb on both the left and right side. There is another easy thing to try that could indicate where the problem is. This only works if you have an old style flasher. If you have an electronic flasher installed, it will not work. But what you need to try is to turn on your left turn signal. Take a note of the speed it is flashing. Then turn on your parking lights, and see if the speed of flashing changes. Do the same with the right turn signal. If you have a factory style flasher, and the speed of flashing changes with parking lights on, this could be a clue. One other question... did this 70 Mach work correctly at one time, and now it is not? Or has it always worked incorrectly like this?

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