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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/19/2021 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    A Project progress update.... Well, it's been more than 3 years since I bought the 1970 Calypso Coral Mach 1 M code with Vermillion Red interior and it's almost done. The Cleveland was stroked to 408ci with a Tremec 5spd, Eaton TrueTrac with 3.70 gears. Four-wheel disc brakes with Global West Front Suspension. Holley Sniper EFI and Holley Hyperspark Ignition. Lots of other mods.. Still needs the interior door panels and windshield installed. I can't wait to drive it, but I still need to bleed the brakes again, Bleed the Hydraulic Clutch, take it in for a wheel alignment, and some exhaust pipe work. Then I can get it inspected and drive it. I'll post a walk-around video next.... hope you like it. Still needs door panels and windshield and molding... Here is the switch for the power windows and the toggle switch for the remote power side view mirrors. I mounted them in the center console where they are accessible to both the drive and passenger to avoid putting holes for them in the door panels. The fold down rear seat with a pair of Kicker 8" sub woofers mounted in the trap door panel. I was able to install a 17" x 9" rim with a Nitto 45 x 245 size tire in the trunk even with a fold down rear seat trap door panel. This spare wheel matches my front wheels and is a bit smaller than my rear wheels. I did it by relocating the hold down loop. First I sweeeezzzed the wheel in to the trunk where I wanted it, and then I placed the hold down bar thru the dust cap hole in the spare and marked where to weld the hold down loop to the trunk floor. The space is so tight, that I have to release the latch on the trap door when putting the wheel in, or taking it out, but once the wheel is completely in or out I can latch trap door again. Here is a pic of it.... Below is a walk-around video....
  2. 3 points

    Modifying window height stops

    A couple of the rubbers were missing from the window limiting stops so i went and bought a selection of vacuum caps at my local supplier. After matching the cap to the bracket i sprayed it with a little silicone and then warmed it with my heatgun. They fit quite tightly as the heat allows it to stretch and then constrict when cool. Probably will outlast the car. In the pic the original is in the middle and the ones on either side of it are the ones i did. . In my opinion its better than wrapping tape around it. Hope this helps someone who runs into this situation. John
  3. 3 points
    1970 Mach 1 Walk Around With Start & Lights Small Size.mp4
  4. 3 points
    I thought I add my two cents to this thread... I use Evaporust on just about every rusty part I can. Even if I plan to media blast the part as it cuts down on the basting time. Evaporust is bio degradable and will not remove paint marks provided the paint is not over rust. My favorite examples are 1973 Mustang driveshaft where the paint marks were very visible after soaking in Evaporust for 4-5 days, the parking brake pedal and the clutch on my York A/C Compressor, which I wanted to retain a natural finish on it and could not use any gritty material to clean it.. Someone mentioned Dustless sand blasting. I had my 70 Mach 1 Dustless Blasted in my driveway by a service. First I'll say Dustless is misleading...No dust but very messy. Since they use a water solution of sand and a rust inhibitor, it prevents heating and warping of the metal and prevents flash rust for weeks provided the car is kept dry indoors. It's important to shake and blow out all the blasting material from every nook and cranny. I was removing the basting material from the rockers and rails for week afterwards. I wish I could have dipped the car in a big vat of Evaporust, but that much Evaporust would have been very expensive! Once the sheetmetal work was done, I sprayed the undercarriage, floors, engine bay, wheel wells, inside the doors, and trunk area with SPI Red Epoxy, which is designed to be applied over bare metal. They have gray and black if you don't like red. I then covered the floors, inside the doors, underside of roof, and wheel wells with Raptor bed-liner. Raptor provides very good rust protection for the floors and other hidden areas subject prone to rust. You can get Raptor in various colors or in a tintable version, if you want to use your body color. On the Undercarriage and the wheel wells again, I applied Lizard-Skin over the red Epoxy for sound deadening and to give it a textured "undercoating like" appearance. Lizard Skin is gray in color rather than black, which I was not happy about. Later I also applied 3M rubber undercoating to the wheel wells to give it a more stock like texture and appearance in black. Finally on the engine bay I sprayed Eastwood Chassis Black over the SPI Red Epoxy. EvapoRust at work... I used a 4" wide PVC tube, stuck the driveshaft it it, and capped the ends after filling it with the stuff. LEft it for a week or so... Submerged the parking brake assembly in Evaporust... Submerged the just the clutch face down in a pan of Evaporust... My 73 Convertible done with SPI Red Epoxy on the undercarriage. My 70 Mach 1 undercarriage with SPI Red Epoxy ... Gray colored Lizard-Skin over the SPI Red Epoxy. I did not like the gray color in the wheel wells, so the wheel wells were sprayed with the Red Epoxy, then the gray lizard-skin, and then black 3M Rubber undercoating. Hopefully good rust protection and some sound deadening. Engine bay with Eastwood Chasis Black over SPI Red Epoxy Raptor on the floors I used premixed Caution Orange instead of the tintable type. I thought it was close to the car's Calypso Coral body color. Kind of bright, but no one will see it once the interior is in...lol! Dustless Basting in my driveway... no dust, but a big cleanup job afterwards....
  5. 2 points

    Boss 9 Tribute

    It’s a shame. What’s the VIN on the car, was it a big block or something special to begin with? if not it may be time to get a good single malt have a farewell drink with the car, and give it a Viking funeral…
  6. 2 points
    On my 70 MAch 1 I installed Global West Tubular Upper upper and lower control arms and their adjustable strut rods. Also used their Eccentric Loc-Outs. The kit provided a 1" drop steel template for drilling the lower upper control arm pivot holes. I installed Global West Coil Springs (#: s-27), which are stock height performance street with 640 pounds per inch. I welded in some of the BOSS track Mods... the Shock Tower reinforcements plates and the crossmember lower control arm eccentric anchor plates (I chose to use Global West Eccentric Loc-Outs instead). I also converted my manual steering to a CPP GM style power steering setup and swapped my front spindles and drum brakes to stronger Granada front spindles, and calipers with slotted/drilled rotors. I just finished the restoration, and have had limited opportunity to drive the car, but so far so good. Here is the Global West Suspension product description... https://www.globalwest.net/mustang-1967-1968-1969-1970-tubular-arms-strut-rods-front-suspension-global-west.html 1967-1973 Mustang Plus 3 Upper Control Arms # MNR-733 (Sold as a Pair)Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car. This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.) The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA. Tech Information: Caster With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown. The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation: Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster. This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned. If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!
  7. 2 points

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Some of your questions could be better answered if we knew what steering system u may have. Stock verses something else. I used the CPP steering box which is comparable to the Borgenson just a little quicker ratio. I actually plugged the grease zerk fittings on the end of nuts and drilled on the flat of nut putting the zerk fittings pointing straight out which allowed me to move the upper control arm back about 1/4 " or so which gave me more positive caster. With 1" drop and more positive caster my car had a more modern feel. The car handled beautifully. None of this tho except the 1" drop is necessary if you are keeping stock steering.
  8. 2 points
    Mach1 Driver

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Here are a couple of references, and its best if you read it from the experts: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/understanding-shelby-arning-drop-changes/29324. https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html I've only heard positive things about roller perches. Well OK, some people complain about the cost, but not the ride improvement.
  9. 2 points
    Ridge Runner


    LALALALA ,Can you hear me now ? Can you hear me now ? LALALALALA WOOP WOOP WOOP !!
  10. 2 points
    Kris, sorry for the delay, I was away for the long weekend. I used a holley filter near the gas tank (see picture below). I think it came with some rubber hose and clamps which I used to connect the tank line to the filter and then to the two part stock 3/8" hard line, which I had replaced with new, then again maybe I bought the hose.. I also used the same fuel Injection rated rubber hose to connect the two parts of the stock hard line together just behind the drivers side torque box. I ran the hardline to a hole in the rear inner fender apron below the brake master cylinder and distribution block..from this point I ran 6AN PTFE E85 Braided Fuel Injection Nylon Stainless Steel hose with 6AN fittings of various types as needed to the Holley EFI supply port and I installed a plug in the return port. Below are the parts I bought, most which you can buy on Amazon. EFI return plug - AC PERFORMANCE Black Aluminum -6 AN Male Hex Head Socket ORB Port Plug With 6 AN AN6 O Ring Rubber Fuel Injection Fuel Hose 30R9 3/8" I.D. I used these to connect the rubber hose to another 6AN fitting, such the Aluminum 3/8" hardline connector below....EVIL ENERGY 6AN Straight Push Lock Hose End,-6 Female to 3/8 Push on Barb Fitting 3/8 Vapor Guard Hose Clamp Screw Type Various 6AN fittings as needed Aluminum Hard Line Tubing Fitting 3/8 Tube to 6AN Male Fare Fuel Hose. Used to connect the stock hard lines to braided hose line. 3/8 Fuel Line Tubing Mounting Clamps Stainless with Rubber Insulator EVIL ENERGY 6AN PTFE E85 Hose Braided Fuel Injection Line Fitting Nylon Stainless Steel Black (Hose ID: 0.315 inch) I also bought Quick Fuel Throttle Ball Assortment to connect the stock accelerator cable to the Holley EFI. Rubber hose connecting the two parts of the 3/8" factory hardline just behind the torque box. The Holley filter. I used the rubber hose and clamps here to make it easy the replace the filter as needed. I used a stock coil bracket to mount it. Cheaper than the fancy aluminum FI brackets sold for it. The 3/8" rubber hose fitting to 6AN hardline fitting. I would do this one below differently the next time. Next time I will bring the braided line out thru a grommet and the fender apron and connect it to the hardline in the fender well or just eliminate the second hardline and rubber hose connection entirely all the way back behind the torque box. This is the 3/8" hardline to 6AN fitting which passes thru the rear inner fender apron below the master cylinder.
  11. 2 points

    Moving out of NJ soon.

    We arrived here on the 8/15 & the movers arrived on the 17th with the rest of our stuff. After unpacking a lot of boxes for almost two weeks, all the boxes on the first floor are unpacked, not counting the boxes in the basement. Now the house feels like our home now with all of our stuff here.
  12. 2 points

    Cutting in New Carpet

    Do not cut it flush! Keep it long, and trim it next year if you can. Use a steamer to form the carpet.
  13. 2 points

    My windshield washer nozzles

    Take them off and run a piece of welding wire through them. Then blow out with an air hose.
  14. 2 points

    69 mach 408w build

  15. 1 point

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Sorry bigmal I have seen some nice racks but I know nothing about steering racks so I can't help u there. Not sure if CPP or Borgenson makes a right hand drive box or not but it keeps all your steering geometry correct. If u ever tried one I believe u would like it.
  16. 1 point
    Ridge Runner


    The flapper plate looks like it simply sat on top of the air cleaner ,it had a locater tab on the bottom to keep it pointing forward . The rubber seal locked over the air cleaner and the flapper plate . There was a small lid inside the air cleaner with a small air filter just like a normal air cleaner . When the hood was closed the rubber seal touched the bottom of the hood venting air into the flapper plate through the pie cut holes in the hood under the air cleaner . The mach 1 type hood scoop simply had the rubber block of behind the scoop grill removed ,other than that it is the typical mach 1 hood scoop .i made a mold from the flapper plate ,sold several many years ago ,i still have the mold around here some where.
  17. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    That's interesting and definitely the first time I've heard that. What other suspension mods do you have? Anyone else have this experience?
  18. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    Shelby Drop questions.......again

    Don't know anything about caster/camber templates ? The RSS steering rack or right hand drive. So no help here. Brian
  19. 1 point

    Boss 9 Tribute

    Here's where the car is now so you can see what i'm working with and why I decided to stop working on the original shell: Literally... i think the only good piece of metal on the car is the passenger side outer rocker. That's it.
  20. 1 point
    looks great.. thanks for the reply I really appreciate the help. I was able to make the old lines work for a temporary solution. I will redo them all when I get the car home. going to tackle the fuel lines tomorrow.
  21. 1 point
    Hi Rich, I replaced all of the brake lines. Don't use 50 year old lines with your new brake system. I bought the 1970 Mustang kit from Inline Tube. All the lines will need some modification. I prefer to use Stainless Steel. but it is much harder to work with...hard to bend, and if you need to trim them, it is impossible to flare the ends with hand tools. So I would recommend using Steel lines. The line from the rear to the Proportioning valve will need some bending to line up, as will the two front lines. The lines from the valve to the master cylinder will need to be bent. My conversion kit cam with rubber lines to connect the two rear lines to the rear disc caliper, but I chose to go all hardline instead. The rear lines after the junction "T" on the axle will need to be trimmed and bent to line up with eh rear calipers. The critical part for me was finding the Banjo to 3/8" female inverted flare to connect the existing hardline fitting to the rear caliper. My front Granada disc brake assembly came with the flex lines. I needed to add an adapter to connect the hardline fitting to the flex tube. I also need to install a mounting bracket to secure the hard line and flex tube to the frame. Finding all the right fitting adapters took a lot of time a searching and some trial and error. If you have access to a hydraulic flaring tool and know someone who can help you make the tubes with the right flares and fittings, then that may be a good route to take. Finally, you will need to make some mods to the parking brake cable ends to adapt it to the rear brake calipers. Also you will need a GM Proportioning valve Brake Warning light plug. Our Mustang have two wire plugs and the GM plug is one wire. Just twist the two wires from you Ford harness together and connect it to the GM one wire. Let me know if I can provide anymore info.
  22. 1 point
    I like the black carpet, dash, console, and rear fold down. I think those parts in black contrast nicely against the red seats. Thanks
  23. 1 point
    A 1" bore master. I asked if he can give me advice on how to set the bias and he basically told me every car is different and gave me a list of the master cylinders he sells..... Yeah... Well I ordered a wilwood tandem but the dual remote reservoir and adj porpotional valve kit. I like it because it has the pushrod already and lines from the master to the porpotional valve. I just learned that the tandem feature makes it two independent systems. I didn't know that. That sold me I just didn't care for the oem style that needs to be opened to view how much fluid you have.
  24. 1 point
    It was a Chevy mailbox ......
  25. 1 point
    Thanks MAch1 Driver, Restoring the driveshaft on my 73 vert was really fascinating ... Finding the soapstone mark (the loop) made by the guy balancing the driveshaft to mark the spot to attach the counter weight was really a surprise. I did my best to capture and recreate all the paint marks and inspection marks I could. The C6 Transmission was full of inspection markings.
  26. 1 point
    Hi Bob, They make a Gel version of Evaporust. I have not used it much. In my experience Evaporust does not like to be exposed to air. Its looses its effectiveness faster when exposed to air. I would try brushing the Gel and cover the area with something like thing painters plastic or plastic wrap to keep the air away. Just allow the plastic to cover and stick to the Evaporust surface.
  27. 1 point
    Hi Bob, It looks like he was working on it in his garage and was leaning over thru the window to start it, or put in gear and off it went... With Ring and surveillance cameras so common now these kind of videos are plentiful on the net. Yes it was on TikTok. I did a video capture to save it off to my computer, but here is the link....https://vm.tiktok.com/ZMRkG1XLC/
  28. 1 point

    LED headlights

    I don't know for sure but i believe the only dot approved would be sealed beam lights.
  29. 1 point

    Underdash cores needed

    I have a good supply of 67/68's...but if you want, you can send them in. Info at http://midlifeharness.com
  30. 1 point


    I have found a lot of times if the gauge is reading low it is usually a ground problem, that is if the sender is in proper working order. I always run a dedicated ground from where battery ground connects to engine block to the rear of car. Speaking of the Dakota gauges the VHX series that I used on the chev had a menu selection for different resistance ranges. I don't think they were close enough tho if the proper selection does not work that you could select another one higher or lower to help correct the situation.
  31. 1 point

    Holley sniper or Fitech efi

    Kris.. my son has a shop building custom vehicles and he shys away from the in line electric pump. Most are noisy and run hotter due to the fact that they are not submerged in fuel like the intank one. He sticks with sniper...great tech support...and in comparision with the FI Tech comes with everything you need. Fi Tech if i recall was sort of a'la'carte as far as the necessary brackets, studs etc. whereas it all came with the Holley. However that may have changed....He usually orders his exact fit tanks from Tanks Inc. ....John
  32. 1 point

    Holley sniper or Fitech efi

    Edelbrock pro flo 4 is what I was speaking of in post above. I used it on a 454 well pleased with it.
  33. 1 point

    LED headlights

    @lalojamesliz I have the 6000k. From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45VCT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html Octane lighting link: https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html
  34. 1 point
    Rich Ackermann

    Holley sniper or Fitech efi

    I just installed the Holley Sniper EFI with the Holley Hyperspark Ignition box, distributor, and coil on my 1970 M-code Cleveland which is stroked to a 408ci. Also installed a Holley Retrofit return-less fuel pump for 1970 mustang 22 gallon tank. It can use your existing 3/8" fuel line. You will need to modify each end of the line to connect the EFI, filter, and pump, but its fairly straight forward. There is a significant amount of wiring and a few fuses and relays needed to bring it all together. When adding the EFI, ignition and fuel pump, make sure you have enough available voltage. I doubt a stock 50- 60 amp alternator and the 10 gauge supply wire in the stock ignition harness is enough to support it all, particularly if you have previously added other power hungry components (i.e. a modern stereo and amp). Correct wire size is important too. Holley is very clear about this in there installation manual. Make sure you have no exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor. Even a pinhole leak can draw in ambience outside air and cause an erroneous lean fuel condition and the Holley EFI ECU will be constantly adjusting the fuel mixture incorrectly. Ask me how I know! As far as I am concerned Holley has fantastic customer support. They have technicians available 7 days a week and until 10pm Eastern time. A few weeks after installing my Sniper, the ECU failed, Holley sent me a shipping label and 10 days after I sent it to them, I got it back. They had replaced the ECU and the handheld display completely free of charge. All that said, my setup is running well. Still making adjustments. I have no regrets picking the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark Ignition components. The Hyperspark ignition is designed specifically for the Sniper EFI so the integration details is already done for you. Ps. The intake manifold I have on my Cleveland is an Edelbrock Air Gap dual plane and has a cutout in the divider between the two planes, which I have read is important to have when using a dual plane intake mani with the Holley EFI. The Holley Sniper EFI on dual plane intake mani's without the cutout in the divider can cause inconsistent fuel mixture issues between the left and right sides. Single plane manifolds do not have or need a divider and therefore do not have this issue.
  35. 1 point

    Skynet's coming.

    Me too. But only if they come with a mute button.
  36. 1 point

    Best way to prep engine bay for paint

    Maybe I'm wrong, but my thoughts are, unless you are going down to bare metal, I'd use something like mineral spirits instead of lacquer thinner for the initial clean to remove the large amounts of grease. Then thorough cleaning with a strong soap and hot water. The lacquer thinner will soften whatever paint or primer remains. After completely dry use a Grease and Wax remover. After all that, sanding or scuffing, address any surface rust, then clean clean again with grease and wax remover. Some will try acetone instead of grease and wax remover, but, that can also soften any existing paint. Duplicolor spray cans have a nice spray pattern for a can. But, you will need a lot of cans. Each coat is extremely light and doesn't cover very well. I use to use Duplicolor because it's available everywhere. Now Duplicolor is my very last option for spray can paints. If you are going the single stage spray can route, which is fine, I'd first look to see what SEM offers.
  37. 1 point
    I got the new front section in and today I plan to clean up what's left. I was considering a paint gun with part A and B primer and ..... then I remembered @JayEstes gave me all of this great info on what specifically to use and not to over complicate this like I usually do. Ordering 4 of the primer and 4 of the paint. I hope it's enough. This will be for everything I can touch while inside the engine bay. Just not the frame rails. That will be with the bed liner. I don't plan to use seam sealer. For the underside, wheel wells and under the fenders I ordered some raptor bed spray liner. My son sprayed that on his trucks bed and it's holding up great and it's been over a year at least. Even the thin coated areas I told him to hit again and he didn't look good still and the sun is always on it. I'm off today, kids are at school, wife is on her online classes and studying and it's not hot yet...... time to get to work.
  38. 1 point

    D*@3n!* turn signal switch!

    Ummm...those are the smaller pins. I believe you want the TE AMP A1421-ND and A1420-ND
  39. 1 point

    I started smoking

    Light smoke might also mean leaking head gasket. I'd double check oil and coolant to be sure the coolant isn't low, and theres no water in the oilpan. This possiblity though is down the road from all the other advice....
  40. 1 point
    My 69 RUG AE2 trans has a drain plug. In that OE plug are installed a pair of small magnets. Pretty clever of the manufacturer to think of that. Brian
  41. 1 point
    That shouldn't be a problem. When I rebuilt mine I ended needing new gears, etc. like you went through. At times on the bench it looked like a brass blocker ring might stick to a gear. But, it works fine. When doing your final checks on the bench all I can add is make certain everything is well lubricated with a GL4 rated gear oil (not GL5 or GL4 and GL5 rated). I also used a trans assembly lube for assembly as it has a low melting point and mixes with the oil. Greases for assembly will never melt and mix in. So with greases any metal shavings from a fresh rebuilt (which will happen) will stick to the grease and won't drain out with the oil. Be certain to change the oil frequently to get any metal particles out. They say 500 miles, I've changed mine twice in about 100 miles. So far okay. Initially I had a trans shop rebuild mine, they used grease for assembly and didn't inform me to change the oil soon after use. After a few hundred miles metal particles from the rebuild ruined the rear bearing and the inside of the case was completely coated with grease and embedded metal particles.
  42. 1 point

    Moving out of NJ soon.

    Thanks for the good wishes everyone. We made it safely & we are enjoying our new to us home. Pics to follow in a couple days.
  43. 1 point
    I ordered and just installed the MSD 8920 tach adapter as per the instruction connected the Holley Sniper brown aftermarket tach wire to the MSD 8920 wire for a current triggered tach, and early indication is it appears to be working beautifully. Thanks all.
  44. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    How Alternators Work

    This is a pretty big file, hopefully it can be uploaded without splitting it up How Alternators work2.docx
  45. 1 point

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Thanks, it’s getting there slowly
  46. 1 point

    69 mach 408w build

  47. 1 point

    My Son Mike's 69 Mach 1 Restoration

    Took a picture today of both son’s cars against the Blue Ridge Mountain backdrop in our back yard. Thought they turned out well!
  48. 0 points
    I’ll go with the blue white wire then.

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