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  1. Today
  2. Couple of questions for you: What size diameters of those headers are those in the picture? 1 5/8 or 1 3/4? if you do not know the brand, get metal brush or something to scrub the flanges there may be a part number stamped on this will help you id in Summit or google if its ment for your application. Maybe not a requirement, but what are you current mods with the engine? from the looks of those pictures, it may be 1 5/8 header (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969) maybe 1 3/4? 1 5/8 will fit like a glove, you can also try http://www.fordpowertrain.com/fpaindex/headers2.htm roughly 1k+ but there is a delay and he is working on a backlog of orders. Almost all owners on here use FPA or some other brand headman, JBA and Hooker headers. I use the original steering but there are some owners with unisteer that can help with your issue.
  3. Hmm, I've never taken the alternator's regulator apart. If I have a need, I may take that on, but it would just be for intellectual curiosity. You can get an electronic version that may work even better than the old electro-mechanical. But, I did find some down side to the electronic IVRs that are noted in the paper above, so ya never know.
  4. sorry guys I know this has been beaten to death but I need to purchase asap. I have a 69 sportsroof 351W/4 speed that I have installed Unisteer rack and pinion on. I took off the old headers and my new headers didn't fit with the shock towers (too wide at connection flange). should have measured them instead of taking someones word. lol. anyways, these are the old ones. Does anyone recognize these or can someone recommend some that have a 3" width (tape measure is at an angle) that will work with Unisteer? Called Sanderson Headers but the guy wasn't quite sure if they would fit without adding another knuckle.
  5. Cool track, used to race karts there. Last Historic race I went to there featured the Porsche 917, many moons ago.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Why would they make you change it ? Is Florida tourism paying you ?
  8. No headers ? Wouldn’t manifolds choke it ?
  9. Are your spindles different then my 1970 units ?
  10. How can you differentiate this from the others ?
  11. Sorry for the delay guys...put my back out working on this beast and hobbling around in the shop today. What i found was this: I removed the glass again...none of the rollers were broken but they were certainly wobbling around on the swedged post. As the post is countersunk in the roller somewhat, i taped two small washers over the post so the post/washers would contact my steel workbench rather than the nylon roller. I then peened the other side over again with a flat punch to tighten it up...that certainly did the trick. Appreciated everyones' input for sure. Onto the next problem once my back is up to it...lol. Thanks..John
  12. Ooops. Pictured is the OE set up on my 428 car. Should be the same on your 390 car ? Bendix 6945 stamped onto the front of the Booster w/mounting plate at firewall. Vacuum hose inlet coming from the intake manifold w/18-19 vacuum? NAPA #1929 re manufactured master cylinder. Mounted below the hinge is the OE 'Pressure Differential/Proportioning Valve Assembly. Everything look the same on your car? Brian
  13. I too have a 69 mach1 with stock power disc. I experienced the same issue after I replaced EVERYTHING the last time. I’ve read other posts for power disc cars that were experiencing the same. Much focus is on the proportion & distribution block valves. Since the brakes worked before the rebuild, I never paid them much attention. Mine were pretty gummed up even though the system bled beautifully. I rebuilt those as well. That took care of the problem.
  14. Midlife.. You got it exactly right. Once I connect the break lines and system is bled brakes feel like a sponge and finally stop the car about 1" from the floor. In my original question I forgot to mention that the two front brake hoses were also replaced at the same time the MC was replaced. As mentioned the car running and braking perfectly.. almost to good to be true. Rear brake and other rubber hoses are ok . Front disk and rear...
  15. Midlife.. You got it exactly right. Once I connect the break lines and system is bled brakes feel like a sponge and finally stop the car about 1" from the floor. In my original question I forgot to mention that the two front brake hoses were also replaced at the same time the MC was replaced. As mentioned the car running and braking perfectly.. almost to good to be true. Rear brake and other rubber hoses are ok . Front disk and rear shoes are well adjusted. A real puzzler I have been working on cars 50 yrs and never been puzzled by a problem.. My next step is to replace the booster just to take it out of the equation although I don't think that is my problem.
  16. Brian, you are quoting a post from 2017 by MN69Grande who has Kelsey Hayes style (early 4 piston calipers). Pinexcorp says he has original power disc brake car so he should have single piston calipers. Kelsey Hayes style is a common retrofit disc brake you can install on drum brake spindles; I put a set (with booster) on my 69 Grande which was a non-power front/rear drum brake car.
  17. Let me understand the problem: without connecting to the brake lines, the pedal is hard and firm. Once the brake lines are connected and brakes bled, the pedal is soft and goes to the floor, right? I would first suspect a rubber brake line section is expanding under pressure due to it being old and about to fail. Have you replaced every single bit of brake lines? If so, is there any brake fluid leaking from any of the calipers or drum cylinders? No? Are the rear drums adjusted so that there is a very slight drag when the rear is off the ground? All of the above can explain your symptoms (if I understand them right) without resorting to the MC or booster.
  18. Last week
  19. Sorry no spacer on mine. I might be able to fit a spacer up to a 1/2", but it would obviously raise the shaker a 1/2" higher than where mine is now...pic below.
  20. I would put in a 1 1/16 MC on it, it should stop the car before pedal goes all the way down.
  21. Pedal movement (for example 5 inches) moves the MC piston a lot less (for example 1 1/4 inches) due to the fulcrum of the pedal. Fulcrum is different between power and non power car pedals. Yes the booster has a straight rod (connection) to MC piston. The diaphragm in the booster converts the vacuum to force and reduces pedal effort needed to press the pedal when you press the pedal. When you release your foot from brake pedal, the vacuum on one side equalizes to other side (if it does not equalize, the brakes will be kept applied). If when the engine is off (and brake was applied a few times to spend the vacuum in the system) and you press the pedal, it should stop higher and with more effort. If the brake pedal goes down more and takes less effort when the engine is running (and providing vacuum to the booster), your booster is doing it's job. I put a booster on my 70 with non-power front disc brake car almost 30 years ago. The MC and brake pedal are for non-power cars and I installed a Fiat booster in between. Brakes work good with minimum pedal effort but full braking power comes on with pedal closer to floor (more pedal travel) compared to my 69 with booster, power MC, and power pedal. If it is 390 car, don't burn it, I'll try to make room in my shop for it while wife is not looking.
  22. Got the vacuum hose connected ? Tried the ' Power Brake Functional Test ?
  23. Yes Brian.. Thanks. The Car is all original with power disc brakes.. Correct pedal , correct booster. What I dont get is why if the pedal when pushed all the way to the floor pushes the boosted push rod like 5 inches.. and the MC max travel is 1 1/4" any adjustment on the stud only positions the pedal higher or lower... Maybe I still dont understand how a booster works but looking at cross sections it looks like is a straight connection to the MC with the diaphragm in between and vacuum on one side assist to help with the pushing..I am starting to think that the booster is only effective in a certain range.. so I need to adjust the push rod to see it makes any difference.. Maybe an incorrect booster was installed and only worked with the MC I removed.. I think that makes sense... My Mustang is a 1969 Mach I original S code 390 and C6 trans. Originally Raven black.
  24. Well I don' have a ready answer for your problem. My immediate response is if the pedal goes all the way to the floor there is a disconnect in the system. You say the system functioned correctly prior to the MC replacement. Is the car an original factory power disc brake car ? I am guessing you adjusted the booster push rod to come up just short of the MC piston Cup when installed ? Yet the pedal still goes to the floor ? You never did reply to my questions: do you have the correct pedal and do you have the correct booster with the pedal turned down connection ? Honestly without a hands on inspection I don't know what to suggest. Brian
  25. The cheap parts are great to cut a section for a patch from. Saves you a few bucks if you do not need the whole piece.
  26. I hear your frustration; that is why I bought a brake pressure gauge that I connect to bleeding ports to test the pressures at each corner individually. On a side not, what year, model, engine etc is the Mustang you are going to burn or sell? As if I need an other Mustang.
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