Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. If the other gauges work, then replacing the IVR with an aftermarket replacement won't help, and actually slows down the gauges at start-up. As said previously, if the float isn't full of gas, then bending the float arm or MeterMatch is probably the solution. If you need to buy a new sender go with NPDs best (call them). None of the replacement senders match the OEM according to Rick , the owner of NPD. The following may be of interest:
  3. That's because we have incredibly good taste, and are modest as well.
  4. A couple cars i dealt with same issue is that what usually happens is one of the tabs (springy parts on the side of the roller) breaks and creates slop/rocking of the glass and jams while rolling up and down. Slot you see on Kris' photo is also on original rollers to prevent them from rolling so they slide with springy sides always touching the slide. I modeled the roller very close to originals (with springy part etc)If you do not want to follows Kris'DIY, I can look around and see if I can find the 3D file and print for you; won't cost much if I can find the file.
  5. Thanks aslanefe and Kris: Kris in your pic it shows your modified roller with a slot to keep it from moving..correct? I would imagine that you built them a 'tad' bigger to compensate for wear on the originals? As i roll the window up it kind of jams and then i can easily rock the glass clockwise and it will crank up some more so there's definitely slop there. I'm going to pull that glass out again as i'm in the assembly stage and it's easy to do now with the panels not installed yet. Appreciate the responses guys...thanks. John
  6. I built some of of uhmw plastic. I found 2 holes saws that were the correct size and built them. One for the base and one for the side that goes in the track. I drilled part way from both directions the correct depth of the original. Then I counter suck a hole in it to and put a stainless 1/4” bolt in with a lock nut. It looks large in the picture but is the same outer diameter as the factory, just round. It travels good in the track with no issues that I’ve noticed.
  7. Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).
  8. This was discussed on the old FE forum. I do recall that the universal cross flows are quite a bit shorter than the stock rad. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/febigblockold/viewtopic.php?f=21142&t=2478&p=15696&hilit=griffin#p15696
  9. I saw that too He said it's only going to be minimal increases but how much more?
  10. on my rebuilt stock 390 I have a petronix 1 with a flame thrower coil and I am gaping the plugs at 040 it runs fine, but not sure if gap is correct? Also I have been using the highest octane gas at the pump, once again its running fine but do I need the highest octane?
  11. Yesterday
  12. New seats arrived. Sending them to upholsterer to be wrapped in white leather w grabber blue stitching. I’ll finally be able to properly use the race harnesses.
  13. Anyone reproducing the rollers for the rear quarter glass on 69 70 convertibles...coupes are probably the same.? Thanks...John
  14. I'm amazed at the number of engineers who are into classic Mustangs. Impressive.
  15. Very nice! Probably going to try one of these in the future. Thanks for the info.
  16. Been busy building an airbox so the boss scoop is functional and engine can have clean air, taken a while, still needs painting just trying to decide either silver or black? And finished the gauges
  17. Is the exhaust a Ford exhaust or is it an aftermark exhaust
  18. Last week
  19. I don't care much for originality, I'm looking at some crossflow radiators from griffin. These have dual row of 1.25" tubes and cost half of the direct fit replacement griffin. Why? Isn't 1.25 tubes why griffin rads are preferred?
  20. FYI to anyone debating a SOT CoilOver kit: SOT will be doing a price increase after their current stock is done. So best to pull the trigger now!
  21. One thing I've noticed about the repops: the mounting screw holes are not positioned correctly for the molding to sit flush against the body. I've seen ppl re-drilling a new hole or removing material in the existing hole to make it sit flush. Even when flush, The repops tends to expand the window rail molding. I know a dremel tool can fix that and remove some material, only thing is I need to figure out how much material I need to remove. These molds are its not a major issue for me so I can live with it, but visually, it get be made to fit nicely with out any mods.
  22. I believe you can, but its a matter of modifying the hydraulic line/couplers. I believe TCP sells two versions, one to retain your PS pump and the other is their aftermarket pump.
  23. This post is quite timely -- my steering system needs a lot of TLC (ie. replacement parts) in order to get it steering as good as it was in '69, but the more I think about it, I feel the time is right to upgrade to a rack and pinion. For the TCP or Street-or-Track systems, can you stick with the factory power steering pump? Or is it recommended to upgrade?
  24. Yes, you need to work on the fuel sender with an empty tank of gas. There is one brand of newer floats that can have an issue with leaking. If the float leaks, it will collect gas inside and not float very well. So after you remove the sensor, the first thing to check is to see if the float has fuel in it. Your problem is the sensor is reading too high, which cannot be a float with fuel in it. Your problem is it reads too high, so this needs to be fixed by bending the arm to the float. Adjusting the arm to the float is a trial and error process that can take a lot of time because you need to fill the tank to check it, and empty the tank to adjust it. Get the existing angle measured by tracing the arm with a piece of cardboard so you know how much you move it. This will give you a reference of a starting place. Then bend the arm and check with your reference to see how far you bent it.
  25. The Fraud Motor Company outdid themselves on this one alright. I stripped back the harness on the driver side yesterday - soooo many black wires! I think I have identified the wiring I need; it turns out the PO had already run a new brake light wire and has hacked up the OEM harness, so I believe I can just cut one wire and put it to the new indicator bulb. Watch this space.
  26. You can always use this to match the gauge to the sending unit: https://www.technoversions.com/MeterMatch.html
  1. Load more activity


×
×
  • Create New...