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I have a 4-speed toploader with a Hurst Super Shifter that will be installed into my 69 Mach 1. It is missing the shift lever.

Hurst lists p/n 5387238 which is straight with no offset.

I would like to install a lever that is angled back, more like a traditional OEM style lever. Does anyone have any experience with utilizing a lever that is angled back with the Super Shifter in a Mach? Perhaps a different brand, etc.

 

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I installed a Hurst super shifter years ago in a friends car. The super shifter uses straight rods going from the shifter to the transmission levers. Thus the shifter does not come up through the stock hole. Floor had to be cut. If you want to use the stock hole you need the completion plus shifter.

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Thanks for the valuable information. It will certainly save me a headache or two.

Do you remember which shift lever was used, angled or straight? Or does it matter? I'm planning on replacing the auto center console insert with the manual insert and be done with it.

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The comp plus shifter is the correct shifter to use without cutting up the tunnel. Rods and plate needed are sold separately as a kit, so if you can pick up a used shifter and then buy the rod kit, it can save you some money. 

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If I may put my two cents in,  Mount the toploader and shifter in the car first, you will have a good idea where the shifter location in relation to you sitting position. If the shift lever need to be straight, or bend back.  Last solution, if you cannot find a shift lever bend backward is to custom make one from a straight lever.  Cut half way through just above the two mounting hole, jam the lever in a solid place and bend back the lever till desire angle achieved, try it on the shifter before weld the gap.  A shifter boot should cover the welded spot.  

Summit have one bent backward, don't know the hole pattern will fit Super Shifter.

Hurst Shifters 5388550 Hurst Competition Plus Flat Shifter Sticks | Summit Racing

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Since I couldn't find a stick to fit my application, I had to cut and splice a new stick to an old 2" offset base to fit in the center of the tunnel hole. Good point to remind him to put the weld below the boot top.

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Fyi, this is the stick I used for the top portion as it best matched the stick in my brother's 69 M1 SCJ. 

Screenshot_20210101-192601_Chrome.thumb.jpg.0cd4947cc2c4c75dbec2b35c1981b79b.jpgScreenshot_20210101-192622_Chrome.thumb.jpg.e32c5502ea59803461333d5ae26128b7.jpg

I used the offset piece from a Hurst 3 speed shifter. 

20200721_230145.thumb.jpg.acf9aebaa8eacad0f2ff29430f0f5d0d.jpg

Pic from my brother's car. 

20210101_194432.jpg.8d1d12d71c4cc2796c3d49782165ecb4.jpg20210101_195400.jpg.8a5418a4e4b910423987f668752e4360.jpg

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OK, so this project is taking way too long but I'm finally back on it. It's been fun trying to hunt down parts.

Attached are a couple of photos that show the tail housing with the tranny mounted in place.

The tail housing is C6OR-7A040-C (transmission is out of a 1966 Comet). 

The Hurst shifter is 3913180

I emailed and called David Kee Toploaders but no response. Can anyone tell me which mounting bracket and linkage would be required?

 

Tail housing.jpg

Shifter.jpg

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RPM,

Do you know what adapter plate you used in your above photos? I have a plate from a Super Shifter that may work but it appears I might need to cut off the front 1/3 to get it to clear the mounting flange on the front of the tail housing.

Do you remember what linkage you used?

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I made my mounting plate from 1/2" alum because I wanted to use a Hurst Comp Plus shifter, which wasn't used on the overdrive SMOD toploader I have. I used straight aluminum tube with rod ends for the shifter rods.

I bought some needed parts from Shifter Doc. https://www.shifterdoc.com/productcart/pc/search.asp

I've seen the mounting plates on ebay, and sold mine there a few years ago. 

Screenshot_20211013-202730_Drive.thumb.jpg.a56436f0c0ddb69c68e06458034da028.jpgScreenshot_20211013-202816_Drive.thumb.jpg.5704b77387ebb623843fcd7858df8aa7.jpgScreenshot_20211013-202702_Drive.thumb.jpg.e276925442c243ef5799445e533a9274.jpgScreenshot_20211013-202619_Drive.jpg.75e9e8cf87e61d56579f16751cc0a5f3.jpg

Screenshot_20211013-202718_Drive.jpg

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Thanks for the advice and posting the detailed photos.

When I called Hurst last week they said I needed mounting kit 3738615. Just by coincidence, the bracket that comes with that kit is the same one I have for the Super Shifter that was on the transmission when I purchased it. The bracket would make contact with the mounting flange of the tail housing so would have to be cut. I still wasn't sure about the shifter mounting holes / angle so I investigated further.

After examining the photos above and making some comparisons of others on the net, it looks like I need kit 3735587 which is for a big block Mustang. My transmission was out of a small block '66 Comet . 

It's amazing how many different combinations of Toploaders were made, plus the variety of Hurst shifters and mounting kits just adds to the joy. I'll post photos once I get things mounted.

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Your tailshaft picture shows that it was cast for both the Mustang and the Falcon/Fairlane/Torino.   On a Mustang, the shifter is mounted further back and the F/F/T it is mounted further forward.   Mustang uses the back holes (one of the already drilled holes of the F/F/T pattern and the 2 undrilled on your tailshaft).

Reason I know this is the 4-Speed in my '69 Mustang came out of a '69 Torino ... unfortunately in my case though, the '69 tailshaft only had the F/F/T mounting ears cast in it.   

I also put a Hurst shifter on mine (OE '70 type), and just modded the Hurst mounting plate (added a counterbored hole) so it mounts to just the back 2 mounting holes of the F/F/T pattern since I do not have the rear Mustang mounting bosses on my tailshaft.

In your case, you can machine (or carefully hand grind) down the 2 Mustang mounting ears to be level with the forward ears then drill & tap the back 2 holes.

Pics of mine ... can't really see that the rear mounting bosses are absent, but you can see the unused forward mounting hole of the F/F/T pattern.

Doug

 

         

Hurst & T-L 1.JPG

Hurst & T-L 2.JPG

Hurst & T-L 3.JPG

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Great pics.

So it looks like the two mounting bolts that run through the shifter assembly, would actually be tilted, with the bottom one angled rearward, correct? The top mounting bolt would be slightly forward of the two bosses I have to drill and tap? Where is it in relation to the back edge of the opening in the floorboard?

The shifter I have looks like the one that RPM posted above. It has a "Z" shape at the bottom before the assembly.

What linkage did you use? Is it the original Ford or Hurst linkage?

I'm getting close. I can almost smell the unburnt hydrocarbons now ..........

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My linkage is the OE Ford 1970 Mustang for the OE Ford-Hurst shifter.   

Purists will notice I modified the linkage at the shifter eliminating the factory rubber bushings and replaced with custom made metal bushings and drilled holes for hairpins.     

I think the Hurst tailshaft mounting plate (shown in 1st & last pics of RPM's 10/13 post) is the same for the OE and the Competition Plus that it is based on.   Looking at RPM's last pic, the 2 counterbored holes (upper left & lower right) mount to the tailshaft, the 3rd mounting hole is the non-counterbored hole directly above the lower right hole.   On my installation, you can see this 3rd mounting hole in the 1st pic is next to the shifter with NO bolt in it since I don't have the mating boss & tapped hole for this bolt.

The upper centered shifter mounting bolt goes in the tapped hole in the Hurst mounting plate just to the right of the upper left c-bored hole, and the lower right shifter mounting bolt goes in the threaded hole just to the left of the lower right c-bored hole.   

On mine, you can see in the 2nd pic that I've got a nut on the back side of the plate on that lower right shifter mounting bolt so maybe it is just a through hole in the plate (not tapped), or the threads were stripped out on mine and I fixed by using a longer bolt & nut on the back side.           

The Hurst Competition Plus must use the Hurst linkage for a Mustang application (and the OE Ford-Hurst must use the OE Ford linkage).

Doug   

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