Brake Lines

[1969_Mach1 333]

Question for another project:  Anybody here use the Copper-Nickel tubing for brake lines?  If so, any issues with it since it is a much softer material, flares crack easier, work hardens more than the steel tubing, etc?  Thanks.

[Mike65 475]

1969_Mach1, I have used it on the rear lines on my 69 Coupe & I have made several lines for my 2000 Ranger 4x4. The copper-nickel line bends & flares very easily. I have not had any problem with any of my flares cracking. I am also going to be using it for my fuel lines on the 69 Coupe also.

[mustangstofear 608]

We normally just use it to make patterns,  then send them to be made in stainless steel. 

 

 

[1969_Mach1 333]

Thanks for the input.  I'd use stainless steel but I don't have a hydraulic or a Turret style flaring tool.  I have a decent flaring too I purchased a long time ago from Snap-on but it's not capable of flaring stainless steel.  I've read some small issues with the copper-nickel because it's so soft, like it will easily dent or bend.  The current steel lines were installed in 1978 and look good.  I'm changing them merely because the end of one has been bent several times to align it at the master cylinder and two others could be a little longer for better fitment.  I think I'll go with steel lines again.  They should last another 30 years plus I have the tools to work with it.

[SWPruett 83]

Cunifer tubing is an outstanding choice for brake and fuel lines and is considered the "elite" material in the modern extreme performance and luxury car world today.  Several manufacturers use cunifer tubing exclusively and many of the top-tier custom builders around the country use it daily.  It is equally corrosion resistant as stainless and when polished is difficult to tell the difference between it and stainless.  Unless you have a desire for the specific aesthetic appearance of stainless, cunifer is the best choice from all other mechanical perspectives (ease of flaring, ease of bending, no worry of cracking at the flare and/or work hardening, more vibration resistant, etc.) and it can be "worked" with conventional flaring tools, benders & cutters with far greater success than stainless in the average home shop.  Beyond that, it's actually kind of "fun" to work with too!

[1969_Mach1 333]

That changes things a little.  Doing a little more research it seems there are different grades of the copper-nickel tubing which I wasn't unaware of.

[newstang 388]

I use only ni-copp it bends beautifully and does not rust.

[mustangstofear 608]

4 hours ago, newstang said:

I use only ni-copp it bends beautifully and does not rust.

That's the same brand we use.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I see all the benefits of the copper nickel tubing.  For this time, I think I'll go with the steel again.  Like I mentioned, It still looks good since being installed in 1978, a coupe of them could be a little longer for better routing which is why I am replacing them.

My only concern with the copper nickel is this, I finished the restoration of my 1969 Mach 1 back in about 2000.  Since then as part of preventative maintenance I replace wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and calipers on occasion. and also flush the brake fluid.  I don't want to wait for something to leak and dump brake fluid all over.  I expect to also do this on this 1956 F100.  I don't know how many times a soft copper tube end will survive installation and removal.