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Mach1 Driver

How to Apply Mastercoat in tight areas?

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Since all of our cars have some rust, I've investigated anti-rust coatings and found Mastercoat to be the clear winner. If you go to their website they have a video by an individual that made a salt fog chamber and ran all the popular brands through a month long test. Its very eye opening.

Mastercoat recommends you use a wire brush and get all the crusty stuff off, use their "Ultimate Prep Prime and Paint", then two coats of "Permanent Rust Sealer", and lastly one coat of AG111. They recommend a 2mm tip if you want to spray it, but a version is made for brushing.

The obvious places to use it is the chassis, inside the doors, and the cowl. The 69s are blessed with the removable panel, and since I had heard horror stories about rusted cowls I inspected mine this morning. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was painted black inside (I read that earlier years weren't even painted) and mine had zero visible rust! I'm the original owner and know its all factory. Until I retired 6 years ago, it was in southern California and always garaged.

The inside of my doors have surface rust so that's a good place to use it (Mastercoat). I could brush it on, but would prefer to spray it (particularly in the cowl where it is somewhat visible). How did you guys spray these areas? I have read that one guy used an air brush in the cowl, but they typically only go up to a 0.5mm tip (I think), and this material is too thick and they only recommend thinning by 10%.

Many people use 360 degree spray wands like the 3M 08851, but how would you attach that to a spray gun, and with so little control you are really just flooding the area. What are your thoughts and what did you do?

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I used the Master Series Silver as a primer on the inside & outside of the engine compartment inner fender panels & then top coated it with their chassis black. I also coated the interior side of the firewall & floors, & then applied sound deadner material on top of it.

http://masterseriesct.com/page4.html

http://masterseriesct.com/page7.html

100_1066.thumb.jpg.c793e956410ccbaa83cea598307d92d0.jpg100_1068.thumb.jpg.6a9f43fd69225da630486df4cde679a6.jpg100_1081.thumb.jpg.2c688cf7c4f9bb8e313641184532fa88.jpg

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1 hour ago, aslanefe said:

Terry, if you buy the sprayer I linked, Iet me know after you are done with it; I may stop by when I am in Atlanta and buy it from you.

OK, and thanks for the link. I'm going to try that, but it will be a while still. BTW, they say this stuff will glue the lid on the metal cans it comes in and to use Seran Wrap under the can lid, or transfer it to plastic bottles if saving leftover material (before mixing with catalyst). If it dries on equipment, then industrial paint stripper has to be used to remove it. It sounds like if you don't get the equipment clean, its toast. It also works well as a glue- crazy stuff. They suggest using a fresh air hood when spraying and don't get it on your skin- it must be toxic as hell.

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12 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Well you're not going to rust anymore. Mike, is that the gloss or simi-gloss black?

Unfortunately it is more gloss then semi gloss.

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58 minutes ago, mustangstofear said:

Master Coat doesn't even come close to  Por-15. I tried the Master coat a few years ago and found it tb be very watery and could be easily removed with a damp thinner rag. 

They make at least three coatings- the silver rust sealer, AG111 and chassis black. If he followed the directions like he said he did, then this test has two coats of the silver rust sealer and one coat of black AG111 on top of that. The silver rust sealer had no affect after 30 days of xylol, toluol, alcohol, glycol, ethyl glycol, gasoline, diesel or JP4 . Acetone would soften it after 10 days but it would reharden upon removal. Methylene chloride destroyed the film in 2 days. AG111 (which goes on top) was much more resistant- still good at 90 days in hydrochloric acid ethylene glycol, sulfuric acid ethyl acetate, nitric acid methyl ethyl ketone, castic soda methyl isobutyl, ketone ammonium chlorate, perchlorethylene, Hydraulic oil tricresyl phosphate, oxalic acid Skydrol A500, citric acid, JP4 jet fuel, gasoline, sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, Mil-e-23699 hydraulic oil, oleic acid, Skydrol A500, tricresyl phosphate. It had good resistance after 60 days in tolulene sulphuric acid, xylene phosphoric acid, methanol lactic acid, ethanol oxalic acid,, acetone, anonia, formic acid, but got a poor rating for methylene chloride.

Look at actual test results-  AG111 blows all the others away, and I doubt if this guy works for Mastercoat. He's doing this in his garage in a converted fish tank:

 

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I asked the same question. Finally ended up brushing it on in the hard to reach places. I’ve used both masters series and por 15. I ended up preferring the por15 because it was the least stringent about surface prep. Inside doors and cowls are virtually impossible to get to bare metal. Por15 actually likes a little rough/rusty surface for better adhesion. You still have follow the cleaning and acid treatments so it doesn’t fail.  

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