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prayers1

Need advise finding a direct fit Aluminum Radiator

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Haven’t posted for years due to a family tragedy, but I still held onto the Mustang. I show and race my car, so I need a direct fit radiator that needs no modifications and an electric fan set. 
I would like to have plumbing for the Transmisson into the radiator. I use both the radiator and a teams cooler. 

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Good to see you back and sorry to hear about your problems. I probably won't go with aluminum but from what I've read there is only one company with the correct size tubes and it is US Radiator. They sell through a retail business called Cool Craft in Arizona.

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8 hours ago, prayers1 said:

I’ll check it out tomorrow. Appreciate the kind words. Wife of 35 years passed away

sorry for your loss.  

I have a PWR radiator that is a direct fit and I use a 2500 CFM pusher fan.  I am running a hot 351 build that has 11:1 CR and a roller cam that makes 355 hp at the rear wheels and my engine never gets about 180.  Even when sitting in traffic on a 90 deg day.  PWR also makes direct fit radiators that have built in tranny coolers.  They are available from https://www.crracing.com

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not all fans are created equal. the highest flowing fans are factory ford from a taurus, or lincoln, or contour with a v6 engine. a fan controller should also be used and the one from dcc products is one of the best.

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Stay away from Cold Case Radiators mine leaked right out the box. "Designed" in America and of course made..........NOT IN AMERICA. Also took them 5! YES 5 months to get my replacement! I bought a Griffen and didn't look back. 

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Took dream cars advise and went with speed cooling.com. It cost $655 for 25” radiator, dial fans, wiring and shipping.  It came fast and looks well built. I went with them cause it also has the provisions for automatic trans fluid. In fact, the reservoir looks much bigger than the brass radiator. It fits perfect!  

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Also the Original top radiator bracket And bottom perches will not work. Scott Drake sells an aluminum top bracket as seen in the picture and I removed the perches and just using thick rubber at the base. You question if it’s gonna move. I bolted the radiator to the opening of the radiator support. There are 2 holes on each side of the radiator that aligns with the support.

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I went with a Griffin radiator.  Two rows of 1-1/4" tubes and uses the factory upper and lower saddle mounts.  No issues with it yet.  I've had it about 18 to 20 years.  I do replace the coolant often and use distilled water when mixing the coolant.  Distilled water mixed with coolant might not be the best, but better than tap water

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50 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

I went with a Griffin radiator.  Two rows of 1-1/4" tubes and uses the factory upper and lower saddle mounts.  No issues with it yet.  I've had it about 18 to 20 years.  I do replace the coolant often and use distilled water when mixing the coolant.  Distilled water mixed with coolant might not be the best, but better than tap water

In fact, distilled water with coolant, 50/50 is the best mixture.  That is, unless you go to Evan's cooling systems or other exotic fluids.  For track purposes, no coolant is used - only water, as one doesn't run cars in freezing conditions. 

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14 hours ago, prayers1 said:

If I was were to take the radiator to a shop and have them install a bung on it for the sensor. Where on the radiator should it go??

i have a 195 thermostat and the fan coolant sensor is 187

I don’t wish to seem indelicate here, but your question does call for the subjunctive.  

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22 hours ago, prayers1 said:

If I was to take the radiator to a shop and have them install a bung on it for the sensor. Where on the radiator should it go??

i have a 195 thermostat and the fan coolant sensor is 187

I don't think the fan coolant sensor will work very good in the radiator.  Plus with a 195 degree thermostat and a fan coolant sensor set for 187 degrees, the fan will never stop running.  Maybe step down to a 180 degree thermostat.  A 195 degree thermostat is fairly hot for your type of car.  Some may argue different, but it's not a late model engine designed to run at welding temps.

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Yes, I see your point. That’s why I threw in the sensor temperature, because I wasn’t sure which to get 180 or 195. Also, for years I’ve been told always to run a 190 thermostat. 
 

I’ve been looking all over and found no radiator shops that can weld in a bung. In any case, I learned a little more about the Cleveland’s today. It appears that I should be using the plugged up spot on the water pump. The cavity under that plug shares the same cavity as the block water temp gauge. The Cleveland’s have a dry intake, not like the Windsor.

ill be picking up a 180 thermostat!

in the picture below you can see the plug area goes through the water pump and into the same cavity on the block as the water temp sensor.

 

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