prayers1 153 Report post Posted August 29, 2020 Just an update since I’m waiting for parts in the mail. picked up 2 1/2” bottom perches just like the originals but made just for aluminum radiators by Scott Drake. took off the thermostat housing, since I forgot which stat I had. To my surprise it’s a 180. My car always ran 195, so I thought that’s what it is. During this venture I found that Cleveland’s need a special plunger on the T-stat to close off the by-pass. Not having that type could of contributed to my over heating symptoms. Clevelands run hot by nature, I believe getting a fan sensor at 200 on / 180 off and a 180 thermostat. Opinions welcomed! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbmac 22 Report post Posted August 30, 2020 Not sure what engine you have but for a windsor, I picked up a different thermostat housing with a bung in it. Try this from Summit RNB-902-1001 - Dorman Thermostat Housings or Oreilly Murray Climate Control Water Outlet. $11. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted August 30, 2020 Cleveland’s and Windsor’s are completely different when it comes to coolant. Ive learned its best to use the water pump port, not the thermostat housing Thanks for the info! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted August 30, 2020 Not using the hat thermostat for the C WILL run hot as the coolant is not completely passing into the radiator. Temp sensor should be on eng port. I run the fan controller in the lower rad hose. Having it there controls the temp of coo;ant entering block. Simple sleeve with a bung that allows the probe to be deep into the coolant flow work well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted August 31, 2020 9 hours ago, Mach1Rider said: Not using the hat thermostat for the C WILL run hot as the coolant is not completely passing into the radiator. Temp sensor should be on eng port. I run the fan controller in the lower rad hose. Having it there controls the temp of coo;ant entering block. Simple sleeve with a bung that allows the probe to be deep into the coolant flow work well. If prayers1 uses the water pump port, since that is the water entering the block from the radiator, the fan sensor will also be measuring the coolant entering the block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted August 31, 2020 Yes it would be a good spot as long as the sensor is deep enough into the hole to have the probe end in the coolant flow. But if not the lower hose is an option. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 Finally got the last of the mail order parts and finished the project today. With much debate, I put in a 180 t stat and 195/175 fan switch. With the other choices I felt the fan would never turn off. final result - works great ! Fans turn on and off!! 3 Mach1 Driver, Grabber70Mach and RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 Good to hear! Sounds like the fan temp sensor seems to work okay in the water pump. Looks good, but you sure have a lot of stuff crammed into that engine compartment. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted September 10, 2020 I know. Wish I had deleted the shock towers to be Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
