Correct Fuel Filter location

[TexasEd 188]

I saw a post a while back about the proper fuel filter location.  I think it said it was supposed to be between the tank and the pump.  Mine is between the pump and the carb.

Where is is supposed to go and what type is the correct appearance?  I have a 69 with 302.

Thanks

[Redstang69 2]

I could be wrong but the original carbs were Autolites and they had the filter built into them. I'm far from a pro though, so don't take my word for gospel.

[69RavenConv 286]

I want to say the OEM filter was located at the input to the carburetor. It was a metal (brass?) fitting with a screen-type filter element inside. Maybe an inch or two long that threaded between the hard fuel line and the carb body - badically part of the carb like Redstang said (welcome to the site!).

But it's been years since I looked my original 2100 and my memory is getting old. I inserted an aftermarket filter between the pump and my Holley carb years ago.

 

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Stock was inline pump and carb. 2vs were screwed directly into carb.

Using a stock puller pump place filter before carb.

Using a pusher pump place it between tank and pump. good rule of thumb.

[rmarks 20]

The 1969 Autolite 4300 carb had the fuel filter screwed into the carb itself.  See pic:

 

[Brian Conway 264]

FWIW;  After my purchase of the M6905 Carter fuel pump I needed to change the filter location on my Holley 3310-1 carb..  Moved on to the Holley filters that fit into the fuel bowl inlet.  

[TexasEd 188]

Great.

My Autolite carb is damaged and in a box.  It is replaced with a Holley and I have the filter in between carb and pump (Carter mechanical pump).  I'm using a filter that I don't like the look so next change I'll put a smaller diameter one on.

[69RavenConv 286]

21 hours ago, rmarks said:

The 1969 Autolite 4300 carb had the fuel filter screwed into the carb itself.  See pic:

 

 

Yep, that's it!

[JayEstes 172]

I have a 69 302 coupe - I believe I’m still running original equipment on the carb. It has the 4100 carb with fuel filter screwed into it coming straight out of the front.  Small section of rubber hose connects the steel fuel line.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Yep my 351w 2V is just like JayEstes above ^^

 

Only his is clean and shiny.

[TexasEd 188]

9 hours ago, JayEstes said:

I have a 69 302 coupe - I believe I’m still running original equipment on the carb. It has the 4100 carb with fuel filter screwed into it coming straight out of the front.  Small section of rubber hose connects the steel fuel line.

I like the water line going past the choke.  Does that heat up the choke if the car is hot but has been sitting?  

[Mach1 Driver 560]

8 hours ago, TexasEd said:

I like the water line going past the choke.  Does that heat up the choke if the car is hot but has been sitting?  

Always has for me; there is a water valve to turn off (reduce) flow through the heater core when it is off.

[aslanefe 333]

4 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Always has for me; there is a water valve to turn off (reduce) flow through the heater core when it is off.

Terry, my factory AC cars have water valve on heater hose, non-AC cars do not and coolant always circulate through heater core.

[JayEstes 172]

Heater line past choke seems to work fine for me but I may be missing the gist of your question.. if the car is already warm, the choke setting doesn’t matter as much as when cold.  Best thing about that choke is it doesn’t require electricity - even less stuff to worry about.
 

And as Aslanefe says, there is a vacuum valve on AC cars to cease water flow thru this hose if controls inside set right (mine does have the original Tecumseh AC compressor on there - Rebuilt, but not hooked up right now however) 

[69RavenConv 286]

I always assumed Ford routed the heater hose this way to better gauge/utilize engine temperature at the choke. Imagine driving 55 mph down the road in Minneapolis in January and how long it would take to open a non-electric choke without the hose. 

[TexasEd 188]

Thanks for the explanations.

I have a factory non-AC car with Dealer AC and installed on a 302.  It originally had the manifold heat riser but that rusted away in the 80s and has had a Holley with electric choke since then.  I sometimes have issues starting my car when the engine is warm after sitting a while.  The choke closes while sitting and the car wants it open.  Maybe it's an adjustment issue but it is fine after 60 seconds of running.

It would be cool to remove the electric line and use the heater hose to open the choke.

Having the non AC car with dealer AC makes it interesting for me.  I'm getting ready to tear down to the heater box and restore everything and put in an R134 conversion AC system that uses the dealer AC routing.