Radiator, AC and Headers

[TexasEd 188]

I may not get to paint my car soon but I want to keep making progress so I've decided to tackle these three things at the same time to reduce the engine heat and make it more comfortable to drive.

Radiator:  I have a non-AC car that had AC added as a dealer option. I still have an original 20" radiator.  I went back and forth on aluminum but I hate the silver through the grille and would like to avoid electric fans since they detract from engine/exhaust sound and want to look fairly stock.  In the future I may stroke my 302 so I want to get something suitable.

I found this one that says it is a match for the original copper 24" radiator.  Any reviews/experiences?  https://www.npdlink.com/product/radiator/106094?year=1969

Air Conditioning: I have an under dash unit installed by the dealer.  My Heater controls are locked up and my heater core may be going bad.  Classic Auto air has a unit that looks just like my dealer Mark IV Deluxe system and I think I will get it but it does not replace the heater core like their true fit system does.   https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-daily-driver-ac-kit/

I'm thinking of removing the heater core completely and running the heather hose as a loop between the water pump and the intake manifold. It is over 100* F here now, it's not a daily driver, and I don't think I'll use the heater much.  Do y'all see any issues with this plan?  If my heater motor works when I get the controls working I'll leave it in otherwise I'll remove it and block off the firewall.

Headers: My exhaust leaks.  It is better than before but still bad enough to address it.  I have original cast iron manifolds. I have PS and C4 Trans right now but think I want to stay with Shorty Headers.  I've narrowed it down to these JBAs: https://www.npdlink.com/product/header-shorty-jba/107082?year=1969 or maybe these Hookers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-70303405rhkr

I am open to others as well but I want it to work with what I have now and if I do a 331 Stroker and possibly add an AOD or the off chance I go to a T5 in the future.

Thoughts on this or anything else I should take care of at the same time as these?

Thanks!

[danno 128]

For the radiator, I just bought one from CJ Pony parts.  It looks very much like the one you found, but about $200 cheaper.  Sometimes you pay for what you get, and the one you found could be a much higher quality product, but how would we know?

For the AC, if you are going to go to all the trouble of a new system, I suggest the original Ford factory installed one.  You can find the parts, but it is a huge task to install it all.  In the long run, I think you will be happier with the clean look of it.

For the heater hose, you do not need it connected at all.  Mine has been disconnected for years. 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

My Mach is a 351w with factory AC so it came with the 24" radiator. The compressor still works to this day, but it vibrates a fair amount and bogs the engine down at idle. I've considered a Saden, but I really want the look of the original.This video from WCCC on cooling may interest you: 

 

[TexasEd 188]

12 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

My Mach is a 351w with factory AC so it came with the 24" radiator. The compressor still works to this day, but it vibrates a fair amount and bogs the engine down at idle. I've considered a Saden, but I really want the look of the original.This video from WCCC on cooling may interest you: 

 

That video was very helpful.  Did not know about the different upper radiator hose or the upgrade to the Big Block clutch fan.

[Phils69 27]

It's been years since I did mine but I'll throw my 2cts in on the off chance it may help. I'm not sure of the size but I did order the larger radiator when I did my stroker build. I would see my temp gauge climb when I was stopped in traffic during hot summer day and had to do something about it. I got with my engine builder on it and the end result is we replaced the stock fan and spaced it where it would be located in the shroud better to promote pulling air through the radiator. I haven't had any issues with cooling since. That new fan blade moves a ton more air than the original. With the hood open and doing a rev it will about blow your hat off. It is a stock Ford flex fan, not one of those aftermarket ones that like to come apart. I just removed it yesterday in preperation for pulling my engine and googled the P/N. A link is below, there are some used ones on Ebay as well. It still kind of looks original which I like.

I went with FPA long tube headers and like them pretty well. At the time they were one of the best options for a long tube that tucked up pretty well.

 

http://www.fordonlyparts.com/1973-1985-ford-truck-bronco-f-100-302-351-5-blade-engine-cooling-fan-cf-d7ua-8600-adj/

[barnett468 418]

On 8/6/2020 at 6:41 AM, danno said:

For the radiator, I just bought one from CJ Pony parts.  It looks very much like the one you found, but about $200 cheaper.  Sometimes you pay for what you get, and the one you found could be a much higher quality product, but how would we know?

Determining if it is good or not is easy, as you just measure the size of the tubes, and if they are 1/2" x 1/8"  it is at least decent, and the more rows it has the better it cools if all else is the same.

 

 

[barnett468 418]

On 8/5/2020 at 12:21 PM, TexasEd said:

Radiator:  I have a non-AC car that had AC added as a dealer option. I still have an original 20" radiator.  I went back and forth on aluminum but I hate the silver through the grille and would like to avoid electric fans since they detract from engine/exhaust sound and want to look fairly stock.  In the future I may stroke my 302 so I want to get something suitable.

I have 2 big tube radiators that I will sell for much less than that. Send me a pm if you are interested.

[barnett468 418]

On 8/5/2020 at 12:21 PM, TexasEd said:

Headers: My exhaust leaks.  It is better than before but still bad enough to address it.  I have original cast iron manifolds. I have PS and C4 Trans right now but think I want to stay with Shorty Headers.  I've narrowed it down to these JBAs: https://www.npdlink.com/product/header-shorty-jba/107082?year=1969 or maybe these Hookers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-70303405rhkr

I am open to others as well but I want it to work with what I have now and if I do a 331 Stroker and possibly add an AOD or the off chance I go to a T5 in the future.

Thoughts on this or anything else I should take care of at the same time as these?

Thanks!

Hedman Elite headers are the best bang for the buck and the remflex gaskets are one of the best to use, or the soft aluminum gaskets.

[TexasEd 188]

17 hours ago, barnett468 said:

I have 2 big tube radiators that I will sell for much less than that. Send me a pm if you are interested.

Board says you can't receive messages.  Which make and model do you have?  I've found that the same one at West Coast Classic Cougars is much cheaper and you can get a kit with the big block clutch fan and new shroud.

 

[TexasEd 188]

Radiator Update:

Thanks to the help here I think I am going with this kit from WCCC.  It is complete with shroud, mounts and clutch fan setup.  I would need to get those parts anyway and th price is pretty competitive.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/16324-Cooling-System-Upgrade-Complete-Kit-Repro-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang-clone.html

 

Still thinking about the headers.

[barnett468 418]

On 8/9/2020 at 3:51 PM, TexasEd said:

Radiator Update:

Thanks to the help here I think I am going with this kit from WCCC.  It is complete with shroud, mounts and clutch fan setup.  I would need to get those parts anyway and th price is pretty competitive.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/16324-Cooling-System-Upgrade-Complete-Kit-Repro-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang-clone.html

 

That kit is not available, also, you should never buy a radiator unless you know exactly what size the tubes are and how many tubes there is in it.

I cleared my inbox so you should be able to leave me a message now.

[TexasEd 188]

 

8 hours ago, barnett468 said:

That kit is not available, also, you should never buy a radiator unless you know exactly what size the tubes are and how many tubes there is in it.

I cleared my inbox so you should be able to leave me a message now.

I ordered it.  Maybe I got the last one?  I did the product search back to the manufacturer website.It has 3 rows and 1/2" tubes

http://www.usradiator.com/ford-mustang-1968-69-v8-289-302-351-radiator.html

 

[TexasEd 188]

All the parts are in from WCCC and the car is backed into the garage to get started on this project.  I'll keep you updated here.

 

 

[TexasEd 188]

[Boss429Dreamer 18]

Did you get the lower radiator brackets and insulators? The larger radiator does not bolt to the radiator support like the smaller radiator. I did the swap on my Mach 1 and it makes a huge difference in the cooling. Good luck.

[TexasEd 188]

On 9/15/2020 at 7:03 PM, Boss429Dreamer said:

Did you get the lower radiator brackets and insulators? The larger radiator does not bolt to the radiator support like the smaller radiator. I did the swap on my Mach 1 and it makes a huge difference in the cooling. Good luck.

Yes, it was all in the kit.  They are in the small white box in the center of the photo.  The only thing I need to go back and get is a new radiator cap but I bet my old one fits.  I test fit the top bracket to the core support and it did not look right.  I might have to do some repairs to the core support in order to get the new radiator installed.

[TexasEd 188]

So I installed this over the last 2 weekends (old out last weekend, new in this weekend) and I have a problem.  The fan hits the bottom of the fan shroud and the saddles are bottomed out.

I have about 1" of clearance at the top so I think I need to lower the radiator or raise the motor by 1/2" 

I can get about 1/4" from removing the rubber inserts in the saddles under the radiator.  I could leave in the side rubber pieces to keep it tight.

Neighbor was saying I could put some spacers between my existing mounts and the block to raise it.  I also think new mounts might make a difference.

 

Thoughts?

 

[TexasEd 188]

In progress

[1969vert 55]

Can you move the shroud down enough to get the clearance you need? I clearanced mine on the bottom..

[barnett468 418]

On 8/5/2020 at 12:21 PM, TexasEd said:

 

Radiator:  I have a non-AC car that had AC added as a dealer option. I still have an original 20" radiator.  I went back and forth on aluminum but I hate the silver through the grille and would like to avoid electric fans since they detract from engine/exhaust sound and want to look fairly stock.  In the future I may stroke my 302 so I want to get something suitable.

I found this one that says it is a match for the original copper 24" radiator.  Any reviews/experiences?  https://www.npdlink.com/product/radiator/106094?year=1969

Headers: My exhaust leaks.  It is better than before but still bad enough to address it.  I have original cast iron manifolds. I have PS and C4 Trans right now but think I want to stay with Shorty Headers.  I've narrowed it down to these JBAs: https://www.npdlink.com/product/header-shorty-jba/107082?year=1969 or maybe these Hookers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-70303405rhkr

That rad is a good brand that has the correct size tubes. I have two 24" rads with the large tubes I will sell for only $300.00 but they do not have the trans cooler because i use them for manual trans cars or with external trans coolers because the internal trans cooler is not sufficient for high perf cars.

[RPM 1,190]

11 hours ago, barnett468 said:

That rad is a good brand that has the correct size tubes. I have two 24" rads with the large tubes I will sell for only $300.00 but they do not have the trans cooler because i use them for manual trans cars or with external trans coolers because the internal trans cooler is not sufficient for high perf cars.

If Ed doesn't want it Mike, I'm interested. 

[Boss429Dreamer 18]

Another thought about this radiator issue: You have a 302 which I believe has a shorter block than the 351W. Do you think that this height difference could be the problem? Maybe the water pump is lower, thus a lower fan? Like I said earlier I did the swap on my 351 with no problem.

[TexasEd 188]

I trimmed the bottom of the shroud to lower it over the lower hose and transmission lines.  It looks good so far but I need to reinstall everything.

[TexasEd 188]

It still didn't fit.  I had to elongate the holes on the radiator and trim the shroud more and it cracked at the bottom.  The crack worked out because I had to slide the bottom of the shroud under the cooling lines because it still rubbed the fan.  Got it heated up and drove around the block a few times.  It was leaking when I got back but what I first thought was the core leaking I now think was a loose lower radiator hose.

 

[unilec 57]

I installed a 24 inch radiator in my 65, unfortunately I could only find shrouds with electric fans so made my own out of aluminum sheet metal, works very well now.