Jump to content
Phils69

Phils 69 rebuild

Recommended Posts

I have decided to start back on the stang after a long break. Needs body work/repair, paint, new glass and everything else under the sun it seems. It does have a functioning drive train and a lot of upgrades from original. The first hurdle is a four link rear suspension, rear disk setup, and developing a boxed frame rail to tie in the front and rear frames. The rail will tie both ends in and be laser cut to match the floor pan so it can be welding all along the pan to add to the structural stiffness.  I have welded in global west rails now  that tie the front and rear together but want to improve. I am going  to work with a local company that makes the same for Mopar cars to match the 69 floor pans. They make a set for a 68 stang but it doesn't fit mine. Looks sad all stripped down on the lift. Pulled off the drive shaft, fuel tank, leaf springes/shackes, shocks, brake line and e brake cable. Looks barren back there. 

image0 (1).jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, here's a thought.  If you've got a good frame under there with the global west rails, and it's solid, maybe consider just going with it as is instead of trying to improve.  There is always more you can do to try to improve, but is it really needed?  A car guy generally needs a car that rolls, so what's the best path back to getting the car moving again?  I'm frequently stuck in this conundrum - maybe I'll keep her down another few months while I do all this other stuff...  time as taught me that I like the car drivable.  Now if you skip the frame improvement, you've got it on a beautiful lift, go thru and remove all the rust spots, clean the bottom, and I rattle-canned truckbed liner under there, and I really love how hard and protective that coating is on the bottom is now.  Put the stuff back in and get her rolling.  

A car in a constant state of improvement doesn't roll much.  Do good work everywhere you are working, and maybe fight the urge to improve things everywhere.  I sure have to.  My car rolls again (5 yrs it was down for restore!) it's not perfect, but damn I love hitting the streets with it more than having all these other things I need to do before I can drive it again....

Edited by JayEstes
typo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback Jay. I had tags on it a few years ago and drove it occasionaly. One issue is that when I went around a corner it felt like the rear of the would shift over suddenly. I am like you, when I got the car I made it driveable first so I could get some enjoyment out of it instead of having it in a million pcs in the shop. Mechanicaly its pretty good but its time for body and paint. But before I do that my friend has talked me into fixing the rear shift problem first. I stripped it down a few weeks ago to get ready for the body work but It was still driveable until yesterday. Its always hard to see such a vitale pc of your car off of it lol.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And that back-end hop (or rear-end shift?).... idk, but it could be a mustang feature.  Best thing I did was put KYB gas-adjust shocks in all the way around.  I haven't felt back-end hop much since then - except on wash-board-y dirt roads.  Anyway, best of luck.  These cars have next to no weight on the ass-end, and so they always feel kinda light and shifty back-there on less than perfect roads.  Hope you get her rolling under you soon.  Projects that sit are the most depressing thing.  LOL.  BTW another good stabilizer feature was a 1in stabilizer bar up front.  It dramatically reduced body-roll, which may help on back-end feel.  Another approach is throw a few bags feed or sack concrete in the back - a little weight goes a long way. haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jay. I'm looking forward to starting on it. With other things going on in my life the last few years I did lose focus on the stang. This is the first time in years that my overtime has been almost zero and I have cut back on my machine shop work at home to just stuff for friends so I have time to get back on it. My neighbor being a body man and having recently made friends with a car builder it just seems like things are falling in place to get back on the car. Just wish my 23 year old son would want to participate more.... Any talk of selling the car and he balks like its his birthright but when it's time to wrench on it... I am going to push to get it back together but It will take time. We are going to have to make some custom brakets for the four link setup I am sure and while I have the rear axle out it may be time to ditch those drum brakes. First things first is we have to have some rails made to join the front and rear frame rails together. Basically the end result will be like steel tubing on three sides and the top will be laser cut to match my floor pan. We will clean and weld it to the front and rear rails and the floor pan itself. He is saying the boxed effect will be light and day difference from the global west connectors I have now.  I am hoping to pull the engine and tranny by the weekend and get the guy over to make a pattern of my floor pan so he can make a set. His company does mostly Mopar stuff but they did have a set for a 67 he let us try for free but there was just too much difference. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice info Jeff, I think we all have peaks and valleys working on these cars. If I can offer one piece of advice to you, listen to your son!  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well plans have changed to say the least. My friend who was the expert on car rebuilds/suspension died so I am on my own with the rebuild. As far as the car goes I did get it attached to a rotisserie. The first thing I have to attack is replacing the right front torque box. NPD was out of stock so I ordered from CJPony parts. Seems to be of good quality and thickness, so far I have had to  massage it to fit my car. I am not a body guy so this may be normal, idk. What a pain in the butt taking the old torque box off. Some of the inner spot welds I could not drill out so I had to chisel them apart. I attached pics of the new box in place. Now I have to buy a welder. I have a old Miller stick / Tig machine I bought years ago but  it seems Mig is the way to go with this type of work. My neighbor is going to help me where he can, he is a professional body repair/ frame guy. My neighbor recommends a Millermatic 211 but I believe I will go with a Hobart Handler 190. Basically half the price and it shoule be ok on the auto stuff?image1.thumb.jpeg.dd06a782e12b33642d9765ab575d5a82.jpegimage0.thumb.jpeg.17016b6ca3d0ceb968da4e5bf80e002d.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yikes, sorry to hear about your friend. The Hobart will serve you nicely, even though I'm a Miller guy. I've never replaced a torque box, but I've heard your story a bunch online. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am getting a little closer to finishing up the front torque box replacement. I had my neighbor (frame/body guy)come by yesterday to see what I needed to do next. He said drill 5/16" holes in the replacement panel where the original spot welds were. That way we can fill them in with weld and make it look as stock as possible. He also said where there are gaps put in a 5/16" self tapping screw to pull it up tight and we will fill the holes in after welding. This may be common knowledge to you guys but I wanted to pass it along in case someone like me is doing research on replacing the torque box.

image1.jpeg

image2.jpeg

image0.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had planned to remove the subframe connectors and add a welded to floor design but decided against it. I had to sit the car down off the rotisserie temporarily so I put it on jack stands. The rear was supported at the rear of the subframe connectors and the very front of the frame by the radiator. I noticed that on the left front there was a 1/4" gap between the frame and the jack stand when I rested it on the stands. If the car is that stiff to hold itself up like that there is no way I am cutting off those Global West subframe connectors. I am going to replace the torque box and a couple of other small issues then do the rear suspension. I have already bought the generic rear suspension kit but there will  be some trial and error adapting it, should be fun though and I'll surely learn a lot. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One step at a time.  A project of this size is hard to imagine, but you will get there some day.  The work on the details will be greatly appreciated later.  After you spend 10,000 hours to finish it, the 20 hours on the torque box will seem trivial.  I mention 10,000 hours, because that is how long it would take me to complete it. 

From the photos in your garage, it looks like you have a lot of other interesting cars as work in progress. 

Thanks for sharing

Danno

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...