Open tracker reinforcement plates

[lalojamesliz 56]

I'm starting to gather suff to install when I hopefully yank out my engine next week.  My shock towers aren't cracked but should i get the open tracker plates anyway to handle my 408w? I need to reinforce the torque boxes too right? I'd love to just make my own reinforcement plates instead of spending 200 on some cut out metal plates if possible but I have no idea on the sizes.

I have a hobart 140 mig welder, 175cf 75/25 gas bottle and a couple 10lbs spools of small and med. wire

 

What would you guys recommend I do to have my mustang strong enough to handle the power?

[unilec 57]

Open tracker reinforcement plates are an excellent upgrade to make and not too expensive either. The 140 may be a bit light, but still worth a try, i have a lincoln 180 and  no problems welding in the plates.

https://opentrackerracing.com/product/shock-tower-repair-reinforcement-kit-1967-1970/

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I think the entire shock tower kit is a good idea. Since the 69s already have torque boxes on both sides, I've not heard of reinforcing those.

[latoracing 256]

The B302 gusset would be my first choice for reinforcements. Use poster board for your template and get it fitting like you want it. You can easily cut out your own plates from 1/8" material with a grinder / cut off tool. Your 140a welder should be able to handle this with ease.

If you're wanting to do the big block style reinforcements it might be a little more difficult, but some 3/16" plate and some creative bending will result in quality parts. Fitting these pieces will take a large hammer to adjust various components, trim and tack weld in place. This thicker material may be a little much for your welder as you will have to run it wide open. Bevel all weld joints to help with the lack of penetration.

A little grinding, and it will look better than factory.

If you are wanting to go a little overboard, you can reinforce the UCA attachment area. More cardboard templates and 1/8" material will be needed to build your own. Fully welding all factory seams and using several small filler pieces to fill in the recessed areas then plating over all of it, fully welding all seams with added rosette welds in the middle, and re-drilling your holes, you'll have some pretty strong towers.

 

[lalojamesliz 56]

7 hours ago, latoracing said:

The B302 gusset would be my first choice for reinforcements. Use poster board for your template and get it fitting like you want it. You can easily cut out your own plates from 1/8" material with a grinder / cut off tool. Your 140a welder should be able to handle this with ease.

If you're wanting to do the big block style reinforcements it might be a little more difficult, but some 3/16" plate and some creative bending will result in quality parts. Fitting these pieces will take a large hammer to adjust various components, trim and tack weld in place. This thicker material may be a little much for your welder as you will have to run it wide open. Bevel all weld joints to help with the lack of penetration.

A little grinding, and it will look better than factory.

If you are wanting to go a little overboard, you can reinforce the UCA attachment area. More cardboard templates and 1/8" material will be needed to build your own. Fully welding all factory seams and using several small filler pieces to fill in the recessed areas then plating over all of it, fully welding all seams with added rosette welds in the middle, and re-drilling your holes, you'll have some pretty strong towers.

 

thanks for the pics!  So are these the main areas to reinforce? The gusset, the big block style reinforcements and the UCA attachment area? $10-15 in metal and a little cutting and bending.....

 

Damn, Now I want to upgrade my welder.  

[latoracing 256]

Pretty much. Fully welding the bottom of the shock tower to the frame rail and a few other gussets are all I know to do to them. 

If you have a local fabrication shop, all this material may be just a scrap bin away. 

Do not get rid of your little welder. It will be very valuable for doing thin sheet metal. You can barely see my setup behind the shock tower. A Miller 210 and a Lincoln 175, both are 220v. I keep .030"-.035" in the miller and .023" wire in the Lincoln. You can run .030" in the small welder, but it will duty cycle in about 5 minutes of welding doing thicker stuff. It takes a bunch more prep to get it to weld correctly IMO.

 

 

[lalojamesliz 56]

29 minutes ago, latoracing said:

Pretty much. Fully welding the bottom of the shock tower to the frame rail and a few other gussets are all I know to do to them. 

If you have a local fabrication shop, all this material may be just a scrap bin away. 

Do not get rid of your little welder. It will be very valuable for doing thin sheet metal. You can barely see my setup behind the shock tower. A Miller 210 and a Lincoln 175, both are 220v. I keep .030"-.035" in the miller and .023" wire in the Lincoln. You can run .030" in the small welder, but it will duty cycle in about 5 minutes of welding doing thicker stuff. It takes a bunch more prep to get it to weld correctly IMO.

 

 

Thank you for the advice on the shock tower reinforcements.   I was considering selling my 140 to move up to the 210 you have. That or the budget model (hobart)

I'm just worried that my welder won't penitrate enough. Its supposed to be ok on 3/16 but I know its pushing it. 

Your 210 is great on thin stuff too isn't it? Its just pricey as hell for me since I don't use it much

[TexasEd 188]

I learned a lot on this thread, thanks.

 

[latoracing 256]

I use my welders a lot. The Miller doesn't like thin body work, especially newer cars. They manufacture higher amperage machines that will do thin to 3/16" without having to go to an industrial machine. 

You can do the big block wraps in 1/8", should work.