Rindelmach1 14 Report post Posted June 7, 2020 I touched up some chips on the edge of my drivers door and fender with paint scratch lime gold for 69 mustang (color code i) but the paint was too dark. I went to Sherwin Williams auto paint store and they gave me a closer match but still not an exact match. I went back and the guy gave me some more sample paint and extra black and silver to add on my own. So my only options to mix on top of the lime gold is to add more black or silver to get more metallic. Can someone advise if I can get to the original paint by either adding black, metallic or both? the 3rd mix on the photo is the closest match yet by adding black. Please advise? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dream car 12 Report post Posted June 11, 2020 Was doing mobile automotive touch-up for 17 years, its impossible to get a exact match on metallic or mica color. Even you have the original paint from the paint job. You can only adjust the color little lighter, darker or more greener, yellower. When you spray the paint, the metal lay flat and reflect light. when you dab the paint it sink to the bottom, appear darker. My suggestion to you is apply with a touch-up sprayer, or airbrush. Even with this technique you need invest more material such as basecoat reducer, clear coat, hardener , clear coat reducer. the end result might not be satisfactory. I would just touch-up the best could be done and live with it till next paint job. Sorry I know is not what you want to hear. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted June 11, 2020 17 hours ago, dream car said: Was doing mobile automotive touch-up for 17 years, its impossible to get a exact match on metallic or mica color. That's good advice from someone I would call an expert. I notice your car is a primary color with no metallic or mica. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted June 13, 2020 the picture you posted was that under direct sunlight or a light that body shops use to dry the clear/paint? I'm with DreamCar, I worked for a distributor that sold Paint to body shops in the bay area in my early 20's and the major problem with these shops working on old cars was trying to figure out how to blend old paint(lacquer) with new (waterbourne). you can be the best painter in the world and have a paint scanner, BUT even the machine/painters experience wont be 100% accurate. which is why some ppl have the whole car re-painted or paint the one area that needs work and deal with it, not saying you won't be able to do it, just it wont be 100% paint match. most of the older paint codes are usually not updated but if you call the paint the distributor near you (to scan your fender) or call the manufacturer, possibly Dupont/PPG they may have it on file or could possibly see if they can give you an updated formula/code but that's a gamble and not sure if they would help out unless the painter/shop is a top earner in the area. also, paint brands play a huge part on how rich the color is: Spies Hecker (top tier) which i have on my car and love, PPG (top tier) and Dupont & Nason (medium to low tier). Also, my car is silver and had it painted 3 times because of this issue, I had to choose a color from a modern car as the painters could not match the silver, I also didn't have a paint code so that didn't help, on my 3rd paint job.. I chose ford's Ingot Silver (UX) and never looked back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rindelmach1 14 Report post Posted June 13, 2020 thanks for the advise. i will most likely try to match it as much as possible and use hplv spray gun ( i have one ) to paint that area. I will live with it until the next paint job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted June 13, 2020 7 hours ago, Rindelmach1 said: thanks for the advise. i will most likely try to match it as much as possible and use hplv spray gun ( i have one ) to paint that area. I will live with it until the next paint job. I think 2nd looks nice, but lighter in color, the 3rd looks close but needs more flake but need to see it under more light, you can buy flake powder and they have different grains of flake, but it can cost a pretty penny. I would reach out to another paint distributor company that sells the top tier brands like PPG/Spies/Dupont to see if they can scan your fender or have them call their rep to see if they can can you an updated formula/code looking on the internet, I see there are some brands that sells the color. https://shop.thecoatingstore.com/1969-Ford-Mustang-Lime-Gold-I-Car-Kit-1969-FORD-MUSTANG-I-CKIT.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted June 20, 2020 I have done this for 40 years. 1. Unfortunately, you can not match it yourself. 2. PPG solvent base is one of the best paints to use to get the closest match on old school original paint jobs. Water base paint will not even be close. 3. If you have to spray an entire panel, you should blend it into the adjacent panel, otherwise it will stick out like a sore thumb. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
