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Decided to go the full Holley Sniper system with EFI throttle body and HyperSpark ignition.
The Sniper ECU now controls my air/fuel, idle speed, spark timing and cooling fans.

There are many ways to do this. Here is my way with pictures and part numbers.

(My thanks to Chris at https://www.efisystempro.com/ for the tech support).

 

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Hard lines run under the torque box.  You can see in picture 3 that there is an indentation in the floor, parallel to the rocker, that allowed me to keep the lines tucked up and out of harm's way, with the rocker providing protection. But, just as they turn up into the front wheel well (picture 4), the lines do actually hang ever-so-slightly below the rocker. I'm thinking I might need to weld in a bit of steel plate to act as a guard.

I didn't really want to cut holes in the torque box. I considered following the factory route down the driver's side (and through the hole already in the torque box on that side) but entering the engine compartment from that side was going to be too difficult. Too much going on with brake lines and steering box.

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Looking good, and good luck on getting it tuned for all conditions. By the way, Holley has a returnless sender/pump that fits to stock tanks and outlet and wires are on the sender mounting flange like yours.

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On 4/26/2020 at 1:14 PM, aslanefe said:

 By the way, Holley has a returnless sender/pump that fits to stock tanks and outlet and wires are on the sender mounting flange like yours.

Do you happen to have the part number? I've looked at nine Holley retrofit returnless pumps, but none of them seem to match your description. I wonder how long it takes the pressure to bleed off between the pump and EFI once the ignition is shut off in these returnless systems?

EDIT: Holley says: The hold time varies from pump to pump but should hold for several hours.

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1 hour ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Do you happen to have the part number? I've looked at nine Holley retrofit returnless pumps, but none of them seem to match your description. I wonder how long it takes the pressure to bleed off between the pump and EFI once the ignition is shut off in these returnless systems?

Holley #12-305 sender and pump is what I am using with my original style tank. Don't know how long it takes to bleed, just looked at my car which has not been started for 3 weeks and pressure gauge was at the bottom. The fuel line from the pump to the EFI body is full of gas, it shouldn't be draining back to the tank as injectors are closed when ignition is off so building the pressure after it bleeds off should happen in milliseconds as fluids are not compressible.

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Nice install Bart. I did a similar install a few years back with a Fitech setup. It hides nicely under the shaker . I used a pod style pump from one of our Aussie falcons and EFI hardware in Melbourne sell the tank conversion kit. 

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Just a curious question. I’m running a 600 Holley on my 351 Cleveland 2v. What sort of performance increase could be expected?

Do they list an equivalent CFM rating?

thanks

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1 hour ago, bigmal said:

Just a curious question. I’m running a 600 Holley on my 351 Cleveland 2v. What sort of performance increase could be expected?

Do they list an equivalent CFM rating?

thanks

I'm sure you'll get other opinions, but I would expect little to no improvement. Its advantage is that it starts like a new car and tunes itself. If you're a good tuner and drive it often, then you don't need it- but if you're like the rest of us, then you do. Also, my garage has always had the odor of gasoline for days after driving the car and I've never been able in 51 years to get rid of it- but this will. I'm aware it shouldn't do that and I have a small leak in the casting somewhere. Originally I thought it was the lawnmower but I quit doing that years ago and the smell has persisted.

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Chris, Really nice work!

I was planing to go with a Holley Sniper EFI on my 351C 4v with the Holley sniper dual sync distributor - part# 565-210BK. I am also going with the Holley Silver Sniper EFI 22-Gallon Fuel Tank Kit with 255LPH Fuel Pump and running a 3/8" stock gas line on the drivers side.

Questions, I  understand a minimum of a 1/4" return line is needed. Looks like you ran the same size hard line for the return as you did for the supply....correct? Was the same size required or was that your preference?

Why did you choose the HyperSpark Distributor over the Holley sniper dual sync distributor?

Thanks much!

Rich

 

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Rich,

Same size for supply and return lines simplified the AN fittings, and allowed me to use those billet double-hose clamps. Those clamps were great for keeping constant separation between the lines and I drilled out the screw holes so I could fix them to the body.

HyperSpark seemed the obvious choice and what Holley seems to be recommending.

The Dual Sync is the older product. It can be made to work with the Sniper ECU with some software configuration and also requires the purchase of a wiring harness adapter.   

The HyperSpark was designed specifically for the Sniper. It's even branded "Sniper EFI HyperSpark". It doesn't require any configuration and the distributor just plugs straight into the Sniper EFI wiring harness.  As does the HyperSpark coil. And the HyperSpark comes with that cool rotor phasing tool.  If you read through the installation manuals and watch the installation videos for both products, I think you will come to the same conclusion.

 

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21 hours ago, bartzzimpson said:

Rich,

Same size for supply and return lines simplified the AN fittings, and allowed me to use those billet double-hose clamps. Those clamps were great for keeping constant separation between the lines and I drilled out the screw holes so I could fix them to the body.

HyperSpark seemed the obvious choice and what Holley seems to be recommending.

The Dual Sync is the older product. It can be made to work with the Sniper ECU with some software configuration and also requires the purchase of a wiring harness adapter.   

The HyperSpark was designed specifically for the Sniper. It's even branded "Sniper EFI HyperSpark". It doesn't require any configuration and the distributor just plugs straight into the Sniper EFI wiring harness.  As does the HyperSpark coil. And the HyperSpark comes with that cool rotor phasing tool.  If you read through the installation manuals and watch the installation videos for both products, I think you will come to the same conclusion.

 

Thanks! I am going to check out the Sniper EFI Hyperspark dizzy and coil. Sounds like a better option. Does it fit under the air cleaner base without modification to the base?

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I would look at the fuel pump modules Holley has or other vendors where the pump and sender use the original tank. I bought a Sniper EFI tank which is just a Tanks Inc product and having the fuel fittings dead centre of the tank is a pain in the rear. If I were to convert mine again today I would stick with the stock tank and a fuel module inside the tank as per this thread.

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7 hours ago, Rich Ackermann said:

Thanks! I am going to check out the Sniper EFI Hyperspark dizzy and coil. Sounds like a better option. Does it fit under the air cleaner base without modification to the base?

The 351W version fits fine under my air cleaner base.

If your engine is different, send an email to chris@efisystempro.com and ask him to measure the height. That's what I did. 

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On 4/29/2020 at 6:14 AM, bigmal said:

Just a curious question. I’m running a 600 Holley on my 351 Cleveland 2v. What sort of performance increase could be expected?

Do they list an equivalent CFM rating?

thanks

Mal I’ve had my FiTech on my mustang for a few years now. Very happy with it but if you have any intake or exhaust leaks it will cause issues unlike a carb. 

Even after a month without running it starts first turn of the key. I found it runs better than a carb but my mustang is just a cruiser . 

Like others have said if you have a well tuned carb you probably won’t see any performance advantage. 

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2 hours ago, Shep69 said:

Mal I’ve had my FiTech on my mustang for a few years now. Very happy with it but if you have any intake or exhaust leaks it will cause issues unlike a carb. 

Even after a month without running it starts first turn of the key. I found it runs better than a carb but my mustang is just a cruiser . 

Like others have said if you have a well tuned carb you probably won’t see any performance advantage. 

Thanks Shep

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On 4/29/2020 at 8:14 AM, bigmal said:

Just a curious question. I’m running a 600 Holley on my 351 Cleveland 2v. What sort of performance increase could be expected?

Do they list an equivalent CFM rating?

thanks

Mal, FYI ...

The Sniper 4150 model is rated at 700 CFM. Before the Sniper I had a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb on my 351W with big-ish cam and I saw a noticeable performance improvement with the Sniper. Maybe I would have seen the same with a 700 CFM carb but, like Mach1 Driver said, it now starts first time, every time (and it idles a lot better too).

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On 5/2/2020 at 1:46 PM, bartzzimpson said:

Mal, FYI ...

The Sniper 4150 model is rated at 700 CFM. Before the Sniper I had a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb on my 351W with big-ish cam and I saw a noticeable performance improvement with the Sniper. Maybe I would have seen the same with a 700 CFM carb but, like Mach1 Driver said, it now starts first time, every time (and it idles a lot better too).

Thanks Chris

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On 4/26/2020 at 8:17 AM, bartzzimpson said:

Hard lines run under the torque box.  You can see in picture 3 that there is an indentation in the floor, parallel to the rocker, that allowed me to keep the lines tucked up and out of harm's way, with the rocker providing protection. But, just as they turn up into the front wheel well (picture 4), the lines do actually hang ever-so-slightly below the rocker. I'm thinking I might need to weld in a bit of steel plate to act as a guard.

I didn't really want to cut holes in the torque box. I considered following the factory route down the driver's side (and through the hole already in the torque box on that side) but entering the engine compartment from that side was going to be too difficult. Too much going on with brake lines and steering box.

Thank you very much for the description & the pics.

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