Mach1 Driver 632 Report post Posted April 14, 2020 48 minutes ago, Len69Coupe said: It doesn't connect to the ammeter that I can tell. Will damage occur if I wire it up according to your diagram and leave the ammeter? At this point I need to get this thing running. I have no idea what is going on in the Painless harness, but if the new harness doesn't connect to the ammeter then you can leave the ammeter in the dash, and there will be no affect on the Painless harness (I think that is what you are asking). The 3G alternator will only be connected to the Painless harness at what would have been wire "904 Green with Red stripe". This goes to the 560 ohm resistor and the resistor connects to 'I" on the alternator. The only other alternator connection to the car is from the front solenoid terminal to the mega fuse and from that to B+ on the alternator. And don't forget to connect "B+ to A" and "S to S" as shown on the alternator. I would check the wire that is replacing "904 Green with Red stripe" in the new harness and make sure that when the ignition switch is in "On and Start" you have +12v. I hope you get it going soon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 632 Report post Posted April 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Len69Coupe said: I'll have to research the terminal block. Another opportunity to learn something new :) Thanks. The terminal block can be something this simple- in fact this is twice the size needed. You will only need the left two strips. Connect wire 904 to the bottom left screw, one end of the resistor to the top left screw, the other end of the resistor to the next screw over, and the wire that will go to "I" will connect to the bottom screw on that strip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted April 14, 2020 On 4/12/2020 at 4:07 AM, Mike65 said: I installed a 95A Ford 3G alternator in my 69 Coupe for the reason that Mach 1 Driver stated above, that if you have a problem with the alternator on the road somewhere you can just go to a parts store & buy a new one. What bracket is this Mike65? Also, the 90A is the same case size as the 130 right? Mine wouldn't clock into the position you show in the picture, I had to move mine further outward. I am running a v-belt without slippage or a tensioner, with dual electric contour fans for those reading. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted April 16, 2020 On 4/14/2020 at 9:31 AM, Mach1 Driver said: The terminal block can be something this simple- in fact this is twice the size needed. You will only need the left two strips. Connect wire 904 to the bottom left screw, one end of the resistor to the top left screw, the other end of the resistor to the next screw over, and the wire that will go to "I" will connect to the bottom screw on that strip. Great, that helps me understand the resistor. Again, thanks for your help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 517 Report post Posted April 16, 2020 On 4/14/2020 at 6:50 PM, lanky said: What bracket is this Mike65? Also, the 90A is the same case size as the 130 right? Mine wouldn't clock into the position you show in the picture, I had to move mine further outward. I am running a v-belt without slippage or a tensioner, with dual electric contour fans for those reading. lanky, the brackets I used are Ford stock alternator brackets, aluminum bracket that bolts to the cyl head # - D0OE-10A336-A2, alternator bracket # - D0OE-10156-A, large offset adjuster bracket # - D32AE-10145-DA. I had to use a 3/4" spacer on the bottom alternator bracket bolt so the bracket would be straight. I am using a standard rotation water pump from a 1987 Crown Vic 5.0 & a Dayco # - 5060410 serpentine belt. IIRC the higher amp alternator is a large frame alternator, the 95 amp alternator like the one I got is the smaller frame alternator. 1 lanky reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted April 18, 2020 On 4/16/2020 at 1:18 PM, Mike65 said: lanky, the brackets I used are Ford stock alternator brackets, aluminum bracket that bolts to the cyl head # - D0OE-10A336-A2, alternator bracket # - D0OE-10156-A, large offset adjuster bracket # - D32AE-10145-DA. I had to use a 3/4" spacer on the bottom alternator bracket bolt so the bracket would be straight. I am using a standard rotation water pump from a 1987 Crown Vic 5.0 & a Dayco # - 5060410 serpentine belt. IIRC the higher amp alternator is a large frame alternator, the 95 amp alternator like the one I got is the smaller frame alternator. Thank you, if I ever test amperage used in my system maybe I'll switch to the smaller case if I don't need more than 90A (likely not) as it looks much better how yours is setup. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites