3g Alternator install

[Len69Coupe 33]

So I'm installing a new 3G alternator and can't seem to figure one of the wires. I've seen may schematics on how to do this and they all seem to be different, so I'm relying on the 1965 schematic posted. I have it all figured out except the Lt Green/red wire coming off the ASI. It says this wire goes to the "I" wire from old regulator setup. My regulator doesn't have a wire connected to the "I" connector. The only green/red wire I have on the old regulator is from the "S" connector on the regulator. Should I use the "S" wire on old regulate to the red/green wire?

[Mach1 Driver 560]

No. There are two things to consider in 69: 1) You either have an ammeter, or 2) An idiot light replaces the ammeter because there wasn't room for an ammeter when they put in a factory tach. I'm guessing you have an ammeter?

I would choose a Ford type 3G alternator, not one made by PA Performance. The only beef I have with the PA unit is that it is unique and requires a special regulator that is external to the alternator. If you break down on the road somewhere and need an new alternator, you can't go to the local auto parts store to buy a replacement that would get you going again.

[unilec 57]

I am assuming your new alternator has an internal regulator, so you do not need the external regulator any more. The red warning light or idiot light is there to provide excitation to the regulator circuit, most alternators require the globe in question (bosch comes to mind) to not exceed 2 watts, but you should be ok with the Ford original light. And yes the wire you mentioned is the one to go to the light.

[Len69Coupe 33]

15 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

No. There are two things to consider in 69: 1) You either have an ammeter, or 2) An idiot light replaces the ammeter because there wasn't room for an ammeter when they put in a factory tach. I'm guessing you have an ammeter?

I would choose a Ford type 3G alternator, not one made by PA Performance. The only beef I have with the PA unit is that it is unique and requires a special regulator that is external to the alternator. If you break down on the road somewhere and need an new alternator, you can't go to the local auto parts store to buy a replacement that would get you going again.

 

Yes, I have an Ammeter (gauge says alternator).

I didn't buy the PA Performance one. I'd never heard of that one until I was trying to figure tis out and read an old thread on here about how to wire that version. I have the Ford 3G.

 

4 hours ago, unilec said:

I am assuming your new alternator has an internal regulator, so you do not need the external regulator any more. The red warning light or idiot light is there to provide excitation to the regulator circuit, most alternators require the globe in question (bosch comes to mind) to not exceed 2 watts, but you should be ok with the Ford original light. And yes the wire you mentioned is the one to go to the light.

It does have the internal regulator. So the green/red that used to go to the old regulator "S" connection gets connected to the green/red on the alternator?

When I eliminate the old regulator the large black wires and red wire that went to the regulator can just terminate in the harness? Anyone have an idea the best/safest way to do that?

Thanks guys.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Hopefully this explains all, if it doesn't let me know (BTW, get a good wire diagram so this makes sense):

[Len69Coupe 33]

Mach1 Driver,

Thanks, I haven't seen this one before.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

1 hour ago, Len69Coupe said:

Mach1 Driver,

Thanks, I haven't seen this one before.

No, you wouldn't have seen it before....because I just made it ;)   I hope it is useful.

It helps that I'm a retired electrical engineer and I have an interest in this year and model car.

[Mike65 475]

I installed a 95A Ford 3G alternator in my 69 Coupe for the reason that Mach 1 Driver stated above, that if you have a problem with the alternator on the road somewhere you can just go to a parts store & buy a new one.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

1 hour ago, Mike65 said:

I installed a 95A Ford 3G alternator in my 69 Coupe for the reason that Mach 1 Driver stated above, that if you have a problem with the alternator on the road somewhere you can just go to a parts store & buy a new one.

Mike, I like your belt and pulley arrangement- no serpentine. Can you fit a stock fan between that and the radiator, or did you go with electrics?

[RPM 1,190]

I had to add a turnbuckle style tightener to keep the belt from slipping on the 100 amp alternator.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

1 hour ago, RPM said:

I had to add a turnbuckle style tightener to keep the belt from slipping on the 100 amp alternator.

I've read lots of complaints of squealing belts, but you're not messing around with that turnbuckle. Is yours also just driving the water pump and alternator?

[Mike65 475]

7 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Mike, I like your belt and pulley arrangement- no serpentine. Can you fit a stock fan between that and the radiator, or did you go with electrics?

That is a serpentine belt. I went with dual electric cooling fans. Here are a couple pics with the fans installed.

 

 

[SWPruett 83]

Mike,

I am curious as to which R.H. cylinder head bracket you used for your high alternator mount?  Got a part number by any chance?

Thanks!

[RPM 1,190]

4 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

I've read lots of complaints of squealing belts, but you're not messing around with that turnbuckle. Is yours also just driving the water pump and alternator?

Yes, just wp and alt. Ya, the turnbuckle solved the slippage issue. It was easy to make, well the second one was. The first one I did with both ends right hand threads :)

[Midlife 814]

2 hours ago, RPM said:

Yes, just wp and alt. Ya, the turnbuckle solved the slippage issue. It was easy to make, well the second one was. The first one I did with both ends right hand threads :)

I would have figured you to use both left-handed threads...just saying...

[RPM 1,190]

1 hour ago, Midlife said:

I would have figured you to use both left-handed threads...just saying...

Right?

[Len69Coupe 33]

On ‎4‎/‎11‎/‎2020 at 6:59 PM, Mach1 Driver said:

No, you wouldn't have seen it before....because I just made it ;)   I hope it is useful.

It helps that I'm a retired electrical engineer and I have an interest in this year and model car.

That's awesome. It helps a lot. I do have some questions though because I'm horrible with wiring:

 

The line with the fuse (Note 2) goes where?

The 655R wire (red) goes to ground? What does the "V" mean. Looked at circuit symbols and don't see that.

The lines that end in "NC" means what?

I ordered " 1/2W .5 Watt 5% Tolerance Carbon Film Resistors" from FleaBay. I hope that's correct. I've never done anything with resistors before. Do you cut the line and solder in the resistor or remove the covering from the wiring in 2 places (leaving the wire intact) and solder in the resistor. Couldn't find anything definite on YouTube.

To add to the confusion I'm installing a new Painless ECM wiring harness for the EFI 302 I've installed. Painless my butt, there is some things they could definitely explain better, lol.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

[Len69Coupe 33]

19 hours ago, RPM said:

I had to add a turnbuckle style tightener to keep the belt from slipping on the 100 amp alternator.

Looks like are installs are somewhat similar.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

2 hours ago, Len69Coupe said:

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

The line with the fuse (Note 2) goes where? Well, further down you mention you are going to run a Painless harness. Since it is not stock, there is no way for me to know what that includes or how that is done exactly. It probably includes a new super-duper fuse box and lots of new wires that aren’t in the original harness. I can’t help you there because ALL IS UNKNOWN, so you will need to disregard Note 2 and hope that what Painless has done will work. The 655R wire (red) goes to ground? What does the "V" mean. Looked at circuit symbols and don't see that. On a stock harness the ammeter would need to be removed and a voltmeter installed. That’s what the circled V indicates. One side of the voltmeter would connect to 655R and the other side would go to chassis. Does this new harness connect to the ammeter? If so, by adding a 3G alternator in the way shown here you will probably be bypassing the ammeter and it won’t work. The lines that end in "NC" means what? NC= No Connection I ordered " 1/2W .5 Watt 5% Tolerance Carbon Film Resistors" from FleaBay. I hope that's correct. I've never done anything with resistors before. Do you cut the line and solder in the resistor or remove the covering from the wiring in 2 places (leaving the wire intact) and solder in the resistor. Couldn't find anything definite on YouTube. You didn’t mention the resistance of the resistor. The resistor will get hot and will need to be supported in some manner, will need to dissipate heat, and not short to the chassis or other wires. I would connect the resistor to a terminal block to support it and connect the wires to it. To add to the confusion I'm installing a new Painless ECM wiring harness for the EFI 302 I've installed. Painless my butt, there is some things they could definitely explain better, lol. Good luck with the Painless harness- the forums are full of people trying to make them work. I'm not being snarky here, just stating a fact. I have no interest in figuring out what Painless has done. All I can say is that it is not stock and can't help you. I ALWAYS suggest using Alloy Metal Products because they are exactly like stock and that is well documented. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

 

[RogerC 136]

Mach 1 Driver,

Just wanted to point out that NC on a schematic typically means "Normally Closed" along with NO = Normally Open. Probably should have picked another term, could confuse others in the future.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

6 hours ago, RogerC said:

Mach 1 Driver,

Just wanted to point out that NC on a schematic typically means "Normally Closed" along with NO = Normally Open. Probably should have picked another term, could confuse others in the future.

Yes I'm well aware of the terms. I thought it would be intuitively obvious to the casual observer, since there is nothing there, and I have seen it used as "no connection" countless times, but se la vie. They'll figure it out if they read down this far.

[Midlife 814]

It's also called a blind connection (see Ford schematics), which makes no sense to me.  I just can't see what they mean (pun intended).

[Mike65 475]

On 4/12/2020 at 6:55 PM, SWPruett said:

Mike,

I am curious as to which R.H. cylinder head bracket you used for your high alternator mount?  Got a part number by any chance?

Thanks!

Sven, the parts I used are,

cylinder head bracket # - D00E-10A336-A2,

alternator bracket # - D00E-10156-A,

alternator offset bracket # - D3AE-10145-DA,

the serpentine belt I used is a Dayco 40" # - 5060410.

[SWPruett 83]

1 hour ago, Mike65 said:

Sven, the parts I used are,

cylinder head bracket # - D00E-10A336-A2,

alternator bracket # - D00E-10156-A,

alternator offset bracket # - D3AE-10145-DA,

the serpentine belt I used is a Dayco 40" # - 5060410.

Thank you sir!

[Len69Coupe 33]

20 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

 

Yes, the Painless comes with another fuse box with fuel pump and EEC relays. The only connections to the original harness is a yellow wire to the B+ starter relay and 2 red/green wires to the ignition (coil) switch.

It doesn't connect to the ammeter that I can tell. Will damage occur if I wire it up according to your diagram and leave the ammeter? At this point I need to get this thing running.

Sorry, forgot to say it's a 560 resistor. I'll have to research the terminal block. Another opportunity to learn something new :)

Thanks.