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Radiator Shroud help

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Hello ALL,

Once again I turn to the PROs for some help.

This may not seem like a tuff question - but it is kinda important to me.

So here goes - I am ding some changes on the GG Mach - 351C

I am taking the radiator out to replace and removing some of the chrome from the motor.

Please bear with me. The motor currently has a stainless shroud I had made -  and braided hoses.

I am going back to stock looking hoses and want to change the shroud -to a stock look.

I have a 24 inch shroud that I bought years ago from MU -  the weird thing is when I hold it up to the

existing radiator - the "plastic" shroud come about half way up the top tank - - I was thinking it should only go

as high as the 'fin" part of the radiator - in other words below the top tank.

I think it looks weird.

 

So what I was hoping is someone would have a part number or a picture of the top of their stock shroud.

The radiator is a 3 row - 24 by 16 by 2.25 inches - I think a big block radiator and I am pretty sure it wasn't the 

original radiator- -

 

So if someone had a pix of their shroud - it would help me a lot. I was hoping a picture standing in from of the dover fender looking at the top of the tank or

something

 

Once again - this my seem like a stupid question - but I am stuck

 

Be well - be safe follow the guidelines and hang in there - - - Be well   

Sam

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one thing you can do is install the rad and the shroud and the fan blade then center the fan blade in the shroud by moving the shroud around then see where the shroud is on the rad. this will tell you whether it is the shroud or the tabs on the rad for mounting the shroud that are incorrect. it is most likely a little of both but mainly the tabs on the rad.

 

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Yeah. it does look kinda weird.  It comes up about halfway on the tank and it "stands off" from the tank leaving a good half-inch gap.  But, If it doesn't come up that high you probably won't have sufficient clearance for the fan.  

Now I have replaced the radiator, but I bought a copper OEM style, so it matches the original radiator in shape and size.  Here are a few pics of the top end of the radiator/shroud together:

IMG_7873.thumb.JPG.181fd3da621897f3a502f76f290e07f8.JPG

IMG_7875.thumb.JPG.9171004178da82bcb15f393e8de7315a.JPG

IMG_7876.thumb.JPG.d5653e381c3d146b2b3fe9c1a15a28fb.JPG

And yes, my radiator cap is crooked.  The one thing different about this radiator was that the slots for the radiator cap were clocked wrong, so the cap sits clocked at 45 deg, which is a problem, but I can't find a good way to fix.

Edited by JayEstes
typo, more info

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Ok that is the wrong shroud. It should be perfectly straight on the outside edges.

I may have an nos ford one or one made from the original mold if you want you buy it.

You can have the neck removed and reclocked by a rad shop so that the overflow points to the drivers side which would be correct, which will fix both problems.

 I will bet that is also a small tube chinese radiator. If you remove the rad cap and take a photo of the tubes and post it I can tell you. I have correct rads for manual trans cars so they don't have the trans cooler in them.

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Ya, wrong shroud. Also I believe the fan blade should only be halfway into the shroud. 

Front side:

20200410_075038.thumb.jpg.cf48173beae2d7f9a2878feac920f6db.jpg

Rear. Left side is up in pic:

20200410_075052.thumb.jpg.00be5f563978e633f2b5e788e8f4eb92.jpg

20200410_074959.thumb.jpg.ad0164f99ca8f5faa9f3cc3227a98e15.jpg

Top is up in side view pic:

20200410_075119.thumb.jpg.0fedb480cfc7421b95e4540118712292.jpg

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95ea00dc-a793-48e5-839a-cd445a4ac4db.jpg.841d0385efa497b322dad9fe32a5954d.jpgHello ALL,

Sorry for the delayed response - but things are hectic here - my wife is a wreck

A looked at the shroud - it i weird. I bought is from CJ -  their part number is DOZZ- 8146 - A

THere is another issue I forgot to mention - I put on a clutching fan that is 18"

 

When I look at the shroud it also looks like the fan opening is NOT in the center of the shroud - 

It looks like the opening is off to the passengers side about 2 inches 

 

I hope I can attach a few pixs - I took them on my Iphone and they aren't on my computer yet

Now I see my pictures from the phone are not showing up - even though they are on the phone

don't know why  another issue..

 

Yes Jay = see how the top of your shroud goes straight across - mine is NOTHING like that

 

The thing I hav e is NOT good - 

I gotta figure how to get my pixs - -I need a youngin  LOL

BEar with me

Sam

 

Now not sure how to show pix from my computer

I got it - - see when I put the top of the shroud against the radiator and hold in place with 2 screws

it some up to the neck of the tank and see the spaces - -it is not straight across.I sure hope you guys

can understand.

The first pix show the part number from CJ - -when I went to their sight and search for that number it doesn't appear

 

I am gettin in deep here - NOthing ever simple PLease bear with me - Sam

b18c5f60-191d-4994-a9c3-8123692bdef5.jpg

74847a9e-7b87-415c-b700-2f8298c76b8d.jpg

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Hello - Thanks for helping this old fool.

I actually have a few quesitons about this project.

1. - The radiator is at least 45 years old but I don't think original to the car I have had the car that long.

I am torn between having it fixed or just getting a new one.The price is about the same $350.00

on the one hand I like the old metal - but then again I don't know if they would just recore it. When

I started the car this year there was a small leak below the upper tank.  What's you opinion?

 

2. - The shroud I bought a long time ago seems stupid to me - -it doesn't look like the pictures you guys

posted - - it doesn't look good when put next to the radiator -  I looks like the top tank of the radiator should

be bulged out in spots or somehting

 

3. - Now I am thinking of getting another shroud for  24 inch radiator but do you think large clutching fan would fit inside?  I hate to blow another $80.00 and listen to the boss (wife)  LOL

I sure appreciate your time and efforts

 

Sam - - be well be safe

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Hi Sam,

Below are some pictures from my 69 with a 302. The 302 I am using temporarily (until I rebuild the original engine with correct VIN number) is a later model with radiator outlet on driver's side so I am temporarily using the radiator and the shroud from a 70 Cougar with 351C, FMX and A/C.  May be they will help you.

IMG_0652.jpg

IMG_0656.jpg

IMG_0655.jpg

IMG_0653.jpg

IMG_0654.jpg

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2 hours ago, Print Dad said:

1. - The radiator is at least 45 years old but I don't think original to the car I have had the car that long.

I am torn between having it fixed or just getting a new one.The price is about the same $350.00

There is only 1 company that makes the rad with the correct size tubes and they are called US Radiator, and they sell them through their retail business in arizona named cool craft, and the basic model will cost more than $350.00.

If you have it recored, they will install a chinese core with the small tubes and then they will likely lie to you and tell you that it will cool just as good, or possibly even better than the large tube core the factory rad has.

As I mentioned, if you do not the trans cooler in the rad, I can sell you mine.

 

 

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1 hour ago, JayEstes said:

Wow.  Interesting thread.  So I went to the US Radiator site to see about getting the right radiator new.  If I found the right page it is this:

http://www.usradiator.com/ford-mustang-1967-69-v8-260-289-302-351-radiator.html

Here are the prices.  Looks like $600 for a 3-row with trans cooler.  Man, thats a lot of dough.

image.png.bc615be06853f72e47dc05086eeba506.png

 

 

Ok here's the deal,. If you currently have a standard 3 row big tube rad and it is not plugged up, and your engine is properly tuned but it runs hot at cruising speed, and and you want a copper brass rad. A  $600.00 standard rad will NOT properly cool it and you will have to buy a high efficiency one, and probably one with the multi pass option.

You also must run a high flow water pump and brass milodon high flow thermostat if you use a rad that is bigger than stock if you want to get the most benefit from it.

If your car never runs hot with the current rad, even in the summer with the ac on, there is no need to change the rad.

An aluminum rad is far less expensive but obviously they don't look original.

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1 hour ago, Print Dad said:

Hello Barnett468,

I just looked inside the radiator - is has 3 rows

 

back after - Thanks - - Sam

ok but that does not tell me what size the tubes are or if it looks like they might be getting plugged?

how thick is the core only, not the top or bottom tank?

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